Locanda Verde

We live in a green era. It's hard to remember that less than a decade ago, New York City was still a town dominated by black and white. While wardrobes are still city chic, these days green technology and trends are on every one's mind. Well, I've discovered a new kind of green - Locanda Verde - Tribeca's very own Green Inn. And even if this green establishment isn't necessarily focused on saving the environment, I can promise that in the food world it's mission is worth your time. After winning a Michelin star at one of my favorite Italian spots A Voce, chef Andrew Carmellini has decided to head south and share his talents in an even more enjoyable way. This spot is actually affordable without compromising the high culinary standards of its predecessor.

Locanda Verde is located below the Greenwich Hotel and marks Robert DeNiro's second restaurant attempt in this space. As most actors recognize, a second take is often just what they need. This reincarnation is here to stay - appealing in both atmosphere and setting. It's hard to believe that it's so hard to get a reservation in such a massive space. But, as soon as you taste the homemade foccacio soaked with fresh tomatoes and olive oil served in place of a traditional bread basket, you may actually wonder how you managed to score your seat. If you really are struggling with a reservation, I recommend dining at the bar or at least enjoying a drink in this trendy tavern.

This place is meant for groups. There are so many excellent options on the menu and all are suitable for sharing. Even the crostinis are nicely portioned and great for splitting. I recommend the blue crab crostini with jalapeno and tomato. While both the arugula and local tomato salads are excellent, there were two starters that I cannot get out of my mind. The lamb meatball sliders with caprino (a goat's cheese) and cucumber as well as the crispy artichokes with yogurt and mint are musts. I've had many fried artichokes in my day and these are the best I have ever had. They are perfectly crisp and served with pickled red peppers as well as an excellent sauce, perfect for foccacia dipping. The sliders are also different from any that I have tried as both the flavorful meat and the mini brioche bun stood out in my mind.

It was hard to decide on a pasta dish as a variety of all of my favorite traditional dishes are offered on the menu. We went with the homemade pappardelle with lamb bolognese, mint and ricotta and were not disappointed by these large, homemade flat noodles. Lamb is certainly a strength in this kitchen. But, the surprising winner of the entire night was the fire roasted garlic chicken for two, which (this is really no secret) can actually be ordered for one and it's still more than enough food! The flavors in this dish are out of this world. I know I'm not alone in feeling that chicken is probably the least exciting option when eating out. However, this dish proves that Andrew Carmellini has made it his very own mission to serve chicken worth leaving home and running for - and, mission accomplished! While the pistachio brown butter cake is their signature dessert, we opted for the lemon tart with buttermilk gelato and limoncello granita. For lemon chess fans, the gelato is an excellent twist to this traditional dish.

Whether it's your mission to save the planet or serve the perfect chicken, my hat's off to you - you are helping my world either way! Green is definitely on the mind. Just make sure you consider all shades and uses of the color - and venture to Tribeca where the latest cause has certainly left a mark.



Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich St. (@ N. Moore)
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-3797
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Bar Artisanal

The warm sun is finally shining. The film festival has successfully come and gone. And the Triple Crown is headed to New York once again. Just when you thought you had no reason to head south, here comes Tribeca. I am always looking for a reason to head to the Triangle Below Canal Street (yup, that's what it actually stands for), but I actually never feel extremely drawn to the neighborhood. The name has always sounded cool to me and, given the high quantity of lofts in the area, I always think there is great potential for attractive destinations. However, if someone were to ask me my favorite "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca, there definitely would be a hesitation. And eventually, I would sadly have to admit that I hardly ever even go to Tribeca!

That was, at least, the case until a few weeks ago. Ask me the same question today and I can immediately answer - Bar Artisanal. It's amazing how much can change in so little time. This new venture from the owners of the uptown Artisanal exemplifies what Tribeca should be all about - great space, excellent food, and affordable prices. The extremely high ceilings create a grandeur while its brasserie decor maintains a comfortable and casual vibe. I am reminded of all that I love about the French dining experience.

The menu is extremely varied and affordable, encouraging sharing and indulgence. I really appreciated the Amuse Bouche section where there are not only excellent options, but they are also decent portions. I recommend the manchego beignets and the fried artichokes. As far as taste goes, the beignets are actually exactly as you would imagine they would be. I have rarely come across a beignet or a cheese I would turn down so I was overjoyed with this combination. The artichokes are prepared with a Provencal anchovy sauce that is excellent. From the raw fish section, the diver scallops with citrus soy dressing, sesame powder and cilantro is a great option. This is an extremely fresh and light dish, but with very bold flavors.

My favorite section on the menu is the Petits Plats. I was extremely impressed with so many of these dishes. Not only were the flavors right on, but again, so were the portions. The hardest part is narrowing down the many options. The soft egg, wild mushrooms, ramps, and frico (parmesan crisp) was incredible. As the yolk breaks, all of the ingredients are brought together and create a sort of upscale dip. Save some of the warm baguette that they bring out at the start of the meal as you will certainly need something to sweep this plate clean. I would also urge you to try the cod, chorizo, fingerling potatoes, and cockles. While this may sound like a typical cod dish, the flavors in the sauce bring all of the ingredients together in a way that only French restaurants can truly master - I am certain there is just a hint of buerre in there. And, finally, the octopus with chickpeas and smoked paprika is a definite order. I was not as impressed by the overly smoked flavors in the pork belly, however, the meat alone was very well prepared.

After sharing several small plates instead of ordering a traditional 2 course meal, I am almost always able to convince myself that I have eaten less (no matter how full I really am feeling). Given the nice sized portions of the smaller plates at this restaurant, there was no question that I had been well served. However, this feeling has never stopped me before and small plates somehow justify and actually really do encourage ordering up one final course. At Bar Artisanal, I urge you to keep up this small plate mentality. The chocolate mousse with hazelnut crunch, coffee granita, and chocolate foam had even the fruit lovers going back for more. However, for the fruit lover, the whipped ricotta with a ruhubard-ginger compote topped with a balsamic glaze is the way to go. I have no question that I have now found my "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca. And as soon as others see this excellent use of space, I have a feeling there will be many more to follow in this direction. I have never denied it. No matter the time of year, there is always a reason to head south!



Bar Artisanal 268 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-1600
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Smith & Mills

Cozy is key right now. The temperature has dropped 40 degrees in less than a week and the wind has been whipping like it's mid February - winter coats are definitely in full force. There is not much left to do in the city other than find little nooks where you can hibernate and store up on great food and drink. Located on an unassuming Tribeca block in a former carriage house, Smith & Mills is simply made for this very abrupt change of seasons. It is hard to imagine a more quaint space than what lies behind the unmarked doors of 71 North Moore street. The only catch is knowing to push on the wooden panel on the front right portion of the exterior - otherwise you might be left in the cold all night.

Even if you only intend to go for just a drink or two at the bar, I guarantee that you will end up staying longer than expected - and by default, ordering more than expected too. I know I've already said it once, but I'll say it again - Smith & Mills defines cozy. And cozy leads to settling in for the night. After a brief wait (they don't take reservations), we nestled into our table - one of about six in the entire restaurant - and ordered up a round of classic champagne cocktails. This simple drink, a sugar cube in bitters dropped into a glass of champagne, dates back to the 19th century and could not have gone better with the vintage setting. The surrounding shelves are even lined with antique flatware and jars while the bathroom relies on an old train car sink that empties manually.

If it wasn't enough that the atmosphere seemed to be perfectly suiting my current mood, the menu - featuring soups and comfort food - certainly did the trick. We each ordered a soup to start and then shared a few salads as our mains. The clam and oyster chowder is always on the menu and the French onion soup was the special of the night. While the soups were based upon the classic recipes, both were full of flavor and warmed us right up. I loved the addition of oysters to the traditional New England chowder and the French onion soup was served with a manchego crostini - adding a Spanish element to it. As comfort food (and soups for this matter) tend to be fairly hearty, it was nice to have salads to follow. We shared the warm mushroom salad with butter lettuce, chestnut, squash, yellow wax beans, tomatoes and goat cheese as well as the organic chicken cobb with avocado, tomatoes, smoked bacon, and bleu cheese. The ingredients could not have been fresher. Maybe it was because of the warm aspect of it, but the mushroom salad was my favorite.

After the meal, I felt completely satisfied - full (but not too full), relaxed (but not quite ready for bed), and (I'll say it one more time) completely warm and cozy. While I normally love spreading the word about great finds, I honestly considered keeping this one to myself. Smith & Mills is just that small! I do worry that with too many rave reviews it might fill up too fast. But, I do also feel it is my duty to let you in on the best kept secrets of the city. And, with a wait staff and bartenders being so nice, it wouldn't quite be fair to them not to eat and tell. I guess the good news is that they don't seem to be planning on adding a doorknob to the unmarked entrance any time soon.





Smith and Mills
71 N Moore St
New York, NY 10013
Phone: (212) 219-8568
website