Tipsy Parson

Wow. I am proud to be a Southerner. To be a part of the inspiration behind a restaurant like the Tipsy Parson makes me want to amp up my lacking Southern accent and start sipping mint juleps on a regular basis. Hurry to Chelsea - I fear this one has already been discovered. By their second night of dinner service last week, the chefs had already nailed it. Sure, there were a few service glitches that come with the opening of any restaurant, but the setting, the energy, and the food were outstanding. And after learning that these are the folks behind one of my lower east side favorites, the Little Giant, I should not have been surprised. It was one of those nights when it didn't take long for me to realize I had really stumbled upon something great - and looking around, we weren't alone. And, in case you were already thinking it, I'll just confirm any suspicions that The Hungry Roach, one again, has had a face lift. Lucky for me and my viewers, I was able to share and (he was able to) truly capture the entire experience with my good friend Brian of The Blue Hour.


After our meal on Thursday, I could have easily returned for dinner on Friday, brunch on Saturday, or even just dessert on Sunday - and I will most likely do so this weekend. The menu is scattered with all of my favorites - from biscuits and grits to slow roasting pork and crispy kale. The long marble bar that stretches across the entire front room of the restaurant is a great place to enjoy a few snacks and oysters or even a full meal. As we waited for our table, I eyed the country ham on-the-bone and homemade spreads used as condiments for the various bar snacks. We enjoyed homemade cheese straws and figs stuffed with watercress wrapped in maple glazed bacon. I have sampled and made many variations of stuffed figs, but the quality of the bacon and the use of watercress as stuffing were impressive.


I am still in awe over their homemade herb rolls that arrive at the start of the meal as the bread basket. The chefs actually understand what a roll is all about. Almost all rolls I have come across north of the Mason Dixon Line have been pretty frightening. But, when they are good, there is no denying it. At the Tipsy Parson, these are so good they should actually be right on the menu next to the biscuits. I just wish I had saved even a morsel of mine to soak up the bottom of my bowl of roasted parsnip soup with toasted celery and grapes. This excellent autumn starter had the perfect thick consistency, creating an extremely hearty and flavorful soup. I also highly recommend the sauteed crispy kale salad with mushrooms and cornbread croutons. This dish was perfectly balanced by the ingredients and with nearly every bite, I was able to enjoy the light flavoring of the cornbread croutons. One look at the main courses, and there was no resisting the braised pork shank with stoneground grits, apple butter glaze, cracklins, and roasted apples & prunes. The meat fell off the enormous bone and was full of all of the right fall flavors.

While I loved every morsel I put in my mouth, I did spend much of the night eying the other dishes scattered across neighbors' tables. It was hard to have food envy since our dishes were so good, but rather, I was just wishing there was more time and room in my stomach to try more. The whiffs of the homemade apple pie for two (a must order at the start of the meal) and the visions of the signature Tipsy Parson boozy dessert did make it quite clear of all that I was missing out on. However, in my books, no matter what dessert you do order or don't, no Southern meal is complete without caramel. When it's time to pay the check, you will be thanked with deliciously homemade caramels topped with salt. How refreshing. Tipsy Parson and Southern hospitality win again.



Tipsy Parson
156 Ninth Avenue (between 19th and 20th)
New York, NY 10011
212-620-4545

website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Txikito

If People Magazine had a Star Tracks section for bloggers, last week's issue would read: Spotted at Txiktio! The Wednesday Chef, The Blue Hour, and The Hungry Roach enjoy an evening out in Chelsea doing what they do best - discussing and eating their fair share of excellent food. Not that I really consider myself to be on the same level as the other two in the celebrity blogging world, but I was definitely in great company last week and still riding high from the success of the joint collaboration on Five Leaves. And, being the restaurant "specialist" in the crew, I was in charge of picking the spot - a welcome pressure for the amateur.

Minus a pretty significant wait for a Tuesday evening, Txikito ended up being a great location for our casual rendez-vous. Similar to its sister restaurants, Tia Pol and El Quinto Pino, the place is tiny! The cozy atmosphere completely contradicts its bland exterior and location on one of the least charming blocks in the neighborhood. A foot in the door and a glass of wine later, ninth avenue is quickly forgotten. The crowded room and kind hostess will actually make you even more eager to forge the wait and be a part of the overly content diners surrounding you.

Instead of serving all variations on Spanish tapas, Txikito sets itself apart by focusing on the Basque region - a more adventuresome area in Spain's culinary world. The menu is divided into canapes, cold plates, and hot plates in addition to a selection of daily specials. Most plates are small and are meant for sharing, however, there are a few that are substantially larger. No need to feel shy about asking - they will definitely steer you in the right direction. I recommend 2-2.5 dishes per person. From the canapes, we shared the tutera - gratin of artichoke, roncal, and jamon as well as the atuna - little sandwich of basque tuna with piquillo oil and sweet onion. I will be honest, I have no idea what "roncal" is (google has not been much of a help either), but whatever it is, it must be delicious. This was one of my favorite dishes of the night.

While most cold plates were actually salads, we ordered the octopus carpaccio with lemon oil, mayonnaise, and espelette peppers. This was extremely delicate, but full of flavor. I would definitely order this again. From the hot plates section, we shared the mussels and white beans in a white wine, garlic, and parsley broth as well as spicy cross-cut pork spare ribs. Thinking ahead, they serve all plates with thin slices of bread. The sauces with both of these dishes were more than worthy of sopping up several morsels by the end of the evening. My very favorite dish of the night was one of the specials - chickpeas stewed with salt cod and green market swiss chard. This was delicious. And, on top of soaking the bread in this broth, I was ready to pick up the bowl and just drink it. Our final dish, which was also a special of the night, was braised bacon with imported cuttlefish served with roasted potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Pork lovers should not pass this up this dish if seen on the blackboard again!

I am fairly certain we would have been spotted by the end of the evening had we not been seated in the back corner of the restaurant. While there were no paparazzi flashes, I definitely managed to make up for it - taking out the trusty, old Canon Powershot before we devoured each dish. Gone are the day(s) of the Blue Hour's photographs on the Hungry Roach. But, I do sense some sort of triple collaboration in the works. I'm just not totally sure how, when, or where. I can only guarantee you will be reading about it - Txikito, while delicious, was just a tease.


Txikito
240 Ninth Avenue (25th St.)
New York, NY 100o1
(212) 242-4730
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

The John Dory

White fish have always been somewhat of a mystery to me. Don't get me wrong, it is something that I love to eat and very often order. But, when it comes down to it, I am far from an expert on differentiating between the various types of fish. I see sole, flounder, cod, sea bream, John Dory, skate, catfish (you get the idea) on the menu and I really never know what makes a certain fish unique or more appealing than the next. Well, John Dory (aka St. Pierre) just moved up in the ranks in the sea of white fish for me. A restaurant serving seafood as excellent as The John Dory has given new meaning and recognition to what I used to think of as just another white fish. While a restaurateur's mission is to come up with a catchy name, he or she would never settle for using mediocre food to draw in diners. Without having to ask or even ordering it, I am fairly confident I can tell you what their signature dish would be.

The John Dory is located on tenth avenue in the land of large-scale restaurants. It is sandwiched between Del Posto and Craftsteak while facing Morimoto across the way. Unlike its neighbors, it is actually a smaller, more intimate atmosphere. And, unlike its Italian, Japanese, and red meat focused counterparts, the John Dory is based around a nautical theme - both in setting and its menu. In this long, narrow space with stained glass ceiling lined with fish, there are numerous options for diners. Up front there is the regular bar backed by a live, bright aquarium where those enjoying anything from cocktails to a full meal are able to dine without having to reserve in advance. The oyster bar, further in the back, actually takes reservations and, while it specializes in raw fare, full meals are also encouraged. For additional seating, but equally as intimate, there are a few tables in the main room as well as in a tiny room tucked away behind the aquarium. No matter your location, you definitely feel as though you have stepped off of Manhattan soil and into a world under the sea (far from the East or Hudson Rivers).

This is not the kind of place where I would have expected an amuse bouche, but right away, we were offered a taste of smoked arctic char with creme fraiche served with crispy yuca chips. This reminded me of one of my favorite Nantucket treats - blue fish pate from the Straight Wharf Fish Store. Not only was I brought back to one of my favorite destinations, but I immediately realized that this was going to be an evening of high quality food - and I probably should have raised all expectations - perhaps, petit fours at the end! Besides mains, appetizers, and sides, The John Dory offers raw bar and crudo selections. While the oysters are as delicious as expected, the live sea urchin with blood oranges is worth trying for both taste and presentation. For those of you with texture issues, this might not be your dish, but I highly recommend it for an adventuresome palate. For a more traditional appetizer, the grilled octopus salad with celery, fennel, and bottarga (cured fish roe) is an excellent choice.

It goes without mention that the whole roasted John Dory for two is an excellent main course. However, I was blown away by another fish - the pan roasted cod with mantecato, chili, and artichoke chips. The flavors and level of spices were the perfect combination - starring yet another white fish in my books. If you are looking for a taste of meat amidst all of this delicious seafood, the seared squid stuffed with chorizo is a great option. Even though you probably don't need to order anything more, at a restaurant this good, it is hard to pass up on affordable options such as the side dishes. The sweet potatoes with marrow are extremely hearty while melting in your mouth. And, my end of the meal prediction was right on. Just when you are nice and full, patting yourself on the back for closing up the dessert menu without ordering, a small plate of sweets is automatically placed in front of you. The John Dory surely does not cut corners as the night winds down - serving a unique pomegranate, chipotle caramel and a more traditional hazelnut truffle - both rich and full of flavor, officially setting you over the edge.

Any themed restaurant, especially a nautical one, has high potential of not being taken seriously in the culinary world. Let's hope The John Dory has just raised the bar for the genre. This may be the first restaurant with pet fish while actually knowing how to cook fish. The John Dory is not the kind of place where you need to go for a big event, but rather a fun, yet relaxed night out with a friend or two. I have a feeling when eating out at other restaurants, I will hear myself saying "I'll have the John Dory" more often these days. But, I am even more certain, whether it's a weekend or a weeknight, I'll be saying "Meet me at the John Dory" - it's the perfect, island escape and you don't even have to worry about costumed and singing waiters or sharks!



The John Dory
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (212) 929-4948
website

Socarrat Paella Bar

Paella is often overlooked or just gets a bad rap - especially for those of us who have spent limited time in Spain. I am definitely guilty of breezing right past it on any Spanish menu recalling my disappointment the few times I actually did order the rice dish. In the past, if I was craving a rice dish, I would immediately head to an Asian restaurant - never thinking twice about a Spanish option. Under seasoned yellow rice with an assortment of poorly prepared seafood and meats never quite did it for me. So I will admit I was a little nervous about heading to a restaurant whose name actually included "paella," but after hearing several rave reviews from friends and critics, I figured I had to give Socarrat Paella Bar a shot. After basically being forced to order paella, as it is the all too obvious feature of the restaurant, I now have a new found appreciation for the authentic Spanish dish and feel the need to tell other Spanish restaurants the secret of Socarrat Paella Bar.

Socarrat is located in a tiny space on 19th street. The restaurant can hold about twenty five people at a time with one table up front and one long table through the middle of the restaurant. While it was wonderful having the front open to fresh air on a warm fall night, I envision this with closed doors as the perfect, cozy winter date spot. The menu is made up of two sections - tapas and paella - ideal for sharing since the paella servings are for two at minimum. While the paella is obviously the focus, the chef places equal importance on the tapas as we were overly pleased with each dish we ordered. We started of with a traditional Spanish tortilla. I was a little hesitant to order this since I held similar feelings about this dish as with paella - I have one too many poorly prepared Spanish tortillas. However, we realized that this could be a true test for any Spanish restaurant - a successful tortilla equals truly authentic Spanish cuisine. Socarrat nailed it on the head - this was one of the best versions of this simple Spanish specialty. The fried artichokes were also simple, but prepared perfectly as they were not overly breaded or fried. My favorite of the tapas was a dish made up of snow peas, fava beans, asparagus, fresh corn, tomato, and serano ham. I had originally thought that this would be a cold dish, but the warm combination was a welcomed surprise.

The flow of food was constant. I appreciated how every dish came out as it was ready and at the right temperature. However, when it is time for the paella, you definitely need to clear the way as the large cast iron skillet takes up nearly the entire table. We shared the paella Valenciana - chunks of pork rib, rabbit, snails, scallions, sugar snow peas, and asparagus. I had never even heard of these options in any other version of paella. Not only was it a great combination of vegetables and meat, but I found the rice preparation to be amazing. Since it had been cooked into the cast-iron skillet, the rice was slightly charred - making it full of flavor. As you near the end of the dish, the waiters come around and actually scrape the bottom of it so that you can savor every morsel - really taking in the true flavors. As with the rest of the diners that night, we cleared our skillet.

Since we had been so nicely surprised by other basic dishes all night, we decided to round out the meal with what we thought was a basic cheesecake - not something I would typically order. And, as with the tortilla and the paella, I was wowed. It was actually served in a brulee type dish - and had the crust of a key lime pie (one of my favorite crusts). The inside was made with goat cheese - and was such a great dish for someone who often prefers a cheese plate to an actual dessert. Unlike a typical cheesecake, this was far from heavy and was actually the perfect balance between savory and sweet. If someone were to tell me that they were opening a new and improved Cheesecake Factory, perhaps even called Cheesecake Bar with this on the menu, I would head there right now. It just goes to show - you should never judge a book by its cover. All it takes is a little authenticity - and even the most overlooked dishes can come to life.



Socarrat Paella Bar
259 W 19th St
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (212) 462-1000
website

Boqueria

I was recently asked what my favorite traditional Tapas restaurant is in all of New York City. This is not an easy question since Spanish Tapas restaurants seem to be popping up overnight - a trend that has been going on for several years now. After a minute or two of thought, I answered: Boqueria. I had been there two times at that point and so I was a little hesitant to declare such a title for this young, establishment. However, after having visited on a third occasion, I can confidently answer that question within a few seconds. And, my answer most definitely remains the same. It is one thing to please me, but to fully satisfy one of my pickier friends, is a much greater feat!

Boqueria proves to be a wonderful spot for any eater. Last week, I went there with some my mom and a few great friends - one of them who always claims to be a bit more finicky than the rest of us. The menu was ideal for our group - offering both adventuresome and simple plates. Thinking that I was being sneaky, I decided to order a combination of both types of dishes for our table to share (although, most items definitely skewed on the adventuresome end). A large portion of the menu is made up of extremely fresh, daily specials that are based upon items available at the Greenmarket that day. We divided each plate up evenly, paying no attention to who was picky and who was not. All four of us managed to clear each plate - and this was not because of small portions. Boqueria is actually one of the few Tapas spots where the low price does not indicate tiny morsels of food. Every dish held an ample amount of food, allowing four people to get more than a taste of each. We ordered six plates and that was the perfect amount.

It is hard to say what my favorite dish was since all 6 dishes were delicious and totally different - making it even difficult to compare them. From the regular menu, we ordered dates stuffed with almonds and valdeon cheese all wrapped in bacon, seared lamb marinated in lemon and cumin with salsa verde on top, and blistered shishito peppers with coarse sea salt. I have had many combinations of dates wrapped in bacon and these are by far my favorites. The last time that I went there, there were only 3 of us and we had to put in 2 orders of this dish! I also had to revisit the lamb dish. Not only was the meat perfectly prepared medium rare, but the cumin and lemon flavors made it stand out from a typical lamb dish. And, finally, the shishito peppers were a nice addition. They almost seemed like a Spanish version of edamame - easily popping them into your mouth, but with a much greater kick.

From the extensive selection of nightly specials, we ordered an heirloom tomato and orange slice salad with anchovies and pita crisps smothered in yogurt sauce, rock shrimp and water chestnuts in garlic broth, and suckling pig (pictured to the right) with artichokes, beans, and roasted peppers. Due to an overly rainy summer, tomatoes seem to be in their prime right now - much later than most years. This was the lightest and freshest dish that we ordered - a nice compliment to the many warm dishes on the table. The shrimp dish was totally different than we expected - boasting a unique blend of Spanish and Asian flavors. I would have normally never associated the two cuisines together, but this dish successfully pulled off the combination. But, it was the pig that I was most impressed that my friend polished off! The name alone should scare away most picky eaters - but, the amazing flavors of one of their signature special dishes proved that satisfaction really just comes down to flavor.

In addition to the food, I should probably mention that Boqueria has a great selection of wines. The bottles, in particular, are very well-priced. However, the wine bar up front and small bar tables make it the perfect place to also stop by for a few small bites and a glass of wine. The only catch (other than the fact that they do not take reservations) would be deciding which few tasty items to settle on. But, if my pickiest friend cleared all of her plates, I have no doubt that the menu is ideal no matter the duration of the outing. I am more than certain Boqueria just confirmed that, in the end, none of my friends really are picky eaters. Being picky is truly relative - it all depends where you are dining and who you are with!






Boqueria
53 W 19th St
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (347) 448-5729
website

Blue Ginger

I used to never go out for sushi. Since moving to New York, sushi has been something that I crave, on average, once a week. I am not sure what is in the air here, but sushi cravings also seem to be a regular trend among my friends (girls especially). To satisfy this craving, I would descend my five flights and walk three blocks to my local Japanese restaurant - only to pick up my meal (usually consisting of a green salad and two rolls) and quickly return to the comforts of my apartment. While this usually did the trick, leaving me satisfied until the next week, I did find it odd that it was the one food that I rarely shared with friends. But, then again, I probably eat out too often, so it was sort of nice to have a night in and not be cooking. That pretty much summed up my sushi-dining experience for my first four years in New York. Until this past spring, when I discovered Blue Ginger - a japanese restaurant that blends in with about four other ethnic restaurants on its chelsea block. My days of eating sushi alone (and eating in every now and then) have come to an end!

I definitely do not claim to be the authority on sushi, but this restaurant has managed to change my sushi eating habits forever. Do not be fooled! This is neither a trendy atmosphere nor even a particularly cozy setting. But, rather, it is a fairly standard looking, average-priced sushi restaurant. Nevertheless, every time I have gone, whether it is a Monday night or a Friday night, 6:30 or 8:30 pm, the place is full- and rightfully so.

You are probably wondering how I ever decided to walk into this restaurant since I am fairly certain it is not a new addition to the neighborhood. My roommate actually discovered it - but, unlike me, she discovered it for its take out purposes, on her walk home from work. It was not until, one fateful night, when one of my friends who lives in Chelsea was also having the undeniable sushi craving that we decided to venture from our couches and meet up. Thankfully, Blue Ginger was the halfway point.

While I am obviously not the most experienced sushi eater, I do appreciate a fresh piece of fish - and, sadly, I think that most sushi restaurants actually do not cater to this. Blue Ginger has never let me down. No matter what I order, everything is extremely fresh - and simple. I do usually start off with edamame or a green salad with ginger dressing (while it is tough to screw those up, they certainly make great ones) and then end up sharing several rolls. My favorites are the spicy tuna, salmon with jalapeno, and salmon with avocado. If you are looking for a vegetarian option, the peanut-avocado roll is actually a nice and different combination. Although, throw some bacon in there, and I would probably be in my own personal heaven!

Maybe Blue Ginger will eventually teach me to be more adventuresome in the sushi department. If any place can do it, I think this one has the potential. But, to be honest, I think sushi will always be the one cuisine where I stick to the basics and my favorites. At the end of the day, my cravings are satisfied - so why mess with a good thing? I just appreciate that Blue Ginger has gotten me off the couch and out with another friend! Who really needs a night at home unless it's for a good old homemade meal?


Blue Ginger

106 8th Ave (between 15th and 16th)
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (212) 352-0911
Website