Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Savanna's

Summer is here! And regardless of what the weather is doing, New Yorkers are going to embrace the new season's arrival. Who needs sunny skies, when you can take an easy weekend getaway to numerous beach towns full of restaurants and bars just a short train or bus ride away? A recent, premature escape to Southampton on a chilly May weekend reminded me that you can take the girl out of New York, but you shouldn't take the New York restaurant expectations out of the girl. An evening at Savanna's was the best of both worlds - the highest quality food in a relaxed, comfortable setting.

Whether you have traveled for hours by plane or just a few by car, a cocktail is a great way to kick off any vacation - and the bar at Savanna's takes pride in helping you do just that. Unwind with a dirty martini or one of their speciality concoctions while making sure to take in the setting. After all, no one really heads out to the Hamptons without expecting to be surrounded by and blending in with both the gorgeous and the famous. Even in a low key establishment like Savanna's, it wasn't long before spotting two well-known Australians canoodling at the bar. I'm pretty sure Hugh Jackman and Rupert Murdoch aren't an item, but they definitely seemed to get along extremely well and couldn't have been more excited to entertain our party of 20 girls.

Had we not gotten our dose of star-gazing, I would have still walked out of Savanna's with a smile on my face. The food was delicious! Everything was extremely elegant in its simplicity. Since we were a large group, the restaurant was very accomodating and had pre-arranged a set menu - a choice of an appetizer and a main for under $30. This was quite a deal given the high quality of the prepared food. One of my favorite starters was the traditional caesar salad. It was seasoned with focaccia croutons, white anchovies, and fresh parmesan. The roasted beet and goat cheese napoleon was served with crushed yellow beets, baby mache and a balsamic drizzle - another light, seasonal dish.

The main courses range from pasta to seafood to all kinds of meats. I was impressed by each and every category. While the spaghetti with baby veal meatballs, San Marzano sauce, and a basil chiffonade was very tasty, it was their version of pasta carbonara that was the winner. This dish made with extremely wide, homemade noodles was served with cured pork, basil, and a light cream sauce - another elegant combination. While I do have a weakness for pasta, when I head to the beach, no matter the temperature or the time of year, it's the seafood that I am really craving. And, it's a good thing my cravings typically get the best of me since the salmon was the best dish of the entire evening. I will go so far as to say that this was one of the best preparations of salmon that I have ever had in my life. If the restaurant alone were rated on this dijon crusted salmon served over French lentils, it may have received the unattainable five roaches! Again, while there was nothing overly complex about this dish, it was simply perfectly prepared. And, in the end, perfect prepartion no matter the ingredients truly does lead to perfect flavors.

Before we know it, temperatures are going to heat up for good. Like all New Yorkers who have been begging for permanent warmth for months, we are going to just as soon be wishing for cooler days. But, in the meantime, take a break from the daily routine and enjoy what summer is all about. Enjoy leaving the apartment with no coat, ordering an iced coffee that is truly refreshing, catching the sunset after 8 pm, and most importantly, actually rushing out of the office to head to a nearby escape. Every one deserves to get away, and, lucky for us, it doesn't take much to get there.



Savanna's
268 Elm St
Southampton, NY 11968
(631) 283-0202
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Bar Artisanal

The warm sun is finally shining. The film festival has successfully come and gone. And the Triple Crown is headed to New York once again. Just when you thought you had no reason to head south, here comes Tribeca. I am always looking for a reason to head to the Triangle Below Canal Street (yup, that's what it actually stands for), but I actually never feel extremely drawn to the neighborhood. The name has always sounded cool to me and, given the high quantity of lofts in the area, I always think there is great potential for attractive destinations. However, if someone were to ask me my favorite "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca, there definitely would be a hesitation. And eventually, I would sadly have to admit that I hardly ever even go to Tribeca!

That was, at least, the case until a few weeks ago. Ask me the same question today and I can immediately answer - Bar Artisanal. It's amazing how much can change in so little time. This new venture from the owners of the uptown Artisanal exemplifies what Tribeca should be all about - great space, excellent food, and affordable prices. The extremely high ceilings create a grandeur while its brasserie decor maintains a comfortable and casual vibe. I am reminded of all that I love about the French dining experience.

The menu is extremely varied and affordable, encouraging sharing and indulgence. I really appreciated the Amuse Bouche section where there are not only excellent options, but they are also decent portions. I recommend the manchego beignets and the fried artichokes. As far as taste goes, the beignets are actually exactly as you would imagine they would be. I have rarely come across a beignet or a cheese I would turn down so I was overjoyed with this combination. The artichokes are prepared with a Provencal anchovy sauce that is excellent. From the raw fish section, the diver scallops with citrus soy dressing, sesame powder and cilantro is a great option. This is an extremely fresh and light dish, but with very bold flavors.

My favorite section on the menu is the Petits Plats. I was extremely impressed with so many of these dishes. Not only were the flavors right on, but again, so were the portions. The hardest part is narrowing down the many options. The soft egg, wild mushrooms, ramps, and frico (parmesan crisp) was incredible. As the yolk breaks, all of the ingredients are brought together and create a sort of upscale dip. Save some of the warm baguette that they bring out at the start of the meal as you will certainly need something to sweep this plate clean. I would also urge you to try the cod, chorizo, fingerling potatoes, and cockles. While this may sound like a typical cod dish, the flavors in the sauce bring all of the ingredients together in a way that only French restaurants can truly master - I am certain there is just a hint of buerre in there. And, finally, the octopus with chickpeas and smoked paprika is a definite order. I was not as impressed by the overly smoked flavors in the pork belly, however, the meat alone was very well prepared.

After sharing several small plates instead of ordering a traditional 2 course meal, I am almost always able to convince myself that I have eaten less (no matter how full I really am feeling). Given the nice sized portions of the smaller plates at this restaurant, there was no question that I had been well served. However, this feeling has never stopped me before and small plates somehow justify and actually really do encourage ordering up one final course. At Bar Artisanal, I urge you to keep up this small plate mentality. The chocolate mousse with hazelnut crunch, coffee granita, and chocolate foam had even the fruit lovers going back for more. However, for the fruit lover, the whipped ricotta with a ruhubard-ginger compote topped with a balsamic glaze is the way to go. I have no question that I have now found my "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca. And as soon as others see this excellent use of space, I have a feeling there will be many more to follow in this direction. I have never denied it. No matter the time of year, there is always a reason to head south!



Bar Artisanal 268 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-1600
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Grand Sichuan

I shouldn't admit it, but I rarely ever frequent Chinese restaurants. And, if I ever do, the camera always stays home - especially if I'm not heading on a cultural excursion to Chinatown. Eating Chinese food in New York typically means ordering in, running the risk of MSG poisoning, and/or guaranteeing leftovers for at least a few solid days. Don't get me wrong. There is a part of me that always enjoys and craves Chinese food, but I would never really consider it a luxury. It was only after a few trips to the right spots in Chinatown and one great trip to Beijing that I realized how great Chinese food really can be. It doesn't always have to equate greasy, mysterious looking meat stuffed into over sized cardboard containers. But, in a city with Asian restaurants scattered all too frequently between blocks, I had yet to identify any that really merited an evening out above Canal Street.

That was at least the case until I met Grand Sichuan, an authentic Chinese restaurant on Seventh Avenue and Leroy Street. The first time I tried casually going was on a weeknight, on what I call a gym date - a completely informal meet up with a friend or two where we agree that it's completely fine to sport clothes from the previous hour's work out (hair is definitely a bit frazzled). There are few friends that I can actually do this with, but even fewer restaurants where I feel that I can pull this off. I had assumed that Grand Sichuan would be the perfect home for a gym date until we walked into a packed restaurant and were told that they were closed for a private party. Whether this was actually true or they were turning me away based on my attire, my intrigue only grew. When I returned a week or two later on a Sunday night, this time minus tennis shoes and spandex, I was again shocked to find a full house. However, this outing was much more successful as we were given the choice to wait about ten minutes for a table. Had this not been my second attempt, my curiosity heightening by the minute, I probably would have walked right out the door and to the next Chinese spot, which I am certain couldn't have been more than a block or two away.

While the setting is definitely a step up from most Chinese restaurants, it truly is the food that makes all the difference - guaranteeing a room full of hungry customers each and every night of the week. There are very few places in the city that offer soup dumplings, a true Shanghai delicacy. Grand Sichuan's delicious crab meat and pork soup dumplings finally satisfied my cravings of one of my favorite discoveries while in Asia. The rest of the menu continues to live up to authentic standards offering classical Sichuan and Hunan cuisine. I recommend any of these spicy dishes - full of flavor and the right amount of heat. Even the section titled American Chinese Food stands out from what most American spots offer as much healthier and fresher. The sesame chicken was extremely light and prepared with large chunks of white meat. The shrimp with broccoli and the sauteed pea shoots with garlic are other great "American" options that are not overly drenched in too much sauce, but rather, the perfect amount.

Whatever your favorite Chinese dish may be, Grand Sichuan will surely offer it. And while you too may think of Chinese food as a great hangover cure or the perfect solution for a lazy night in, I highly recommend giving it another shot. It's time to allow Chinese food to join the ranks of the Thai, Vietnamese, and Korean cuisine that you so often make a night out of and get a little dressed up for. While you can still leave your heels behind, Grand Sichuan will actually make you want to shower after the gym, run a brush through your hair, and simply leave your home. Chinese food is in fact a delicacy. It's just a matter of locating the diamonds in all that rough north of Canal Street.




Grand Sichuan
15 Seventh Avenue
New York, NY 10014
(212) 645-0222
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Emporio

While I'm definitely a city girl these days, there are many things that I do miss about the simple, country life. It's true! Pre-New York and pre-Paris, I was a country girl - well, for four years of college, at least. Something I miss the most about Vermont are its country stores scattered from one quaint town to the next. For those of you who are familiar with the Green Mountain State, you know exactly what I'm talking about - and are probably ready to hop in car and head straight up I-89. For the rest of you, just envision everything from homemade fudge to fresh produce and cheese to hand carved furniture - all under one roof. It's hard to think of anything you can't get there. And, it's nearly impossible to leave without a new selection of both kitchen staples and decorations. What's not to love about a general store?

Well, now imagine a country store that actually does the cooking for you. Emporio, Nolita's very own general store (literal translation as well), has brought the country to the city in the form of a bustling, Italian restaurant. While serving up a variety of Italian delicacies, they also separately sell all the organic produce, pasta, risotto, and oils offered on the menu. Forget worrying about grocery shopping earlier in the day, you can now head to dinner and the market in one fell swoop. Emporio's menu consists of cheese and meat sections, anti-pasti, small plates and sides, homemade pastas and pizzas, and main courses. With so many options, you may not be able to order it all. Not to worry, just save some items for purchase before you turn in for the night.

We started the evening with several starters, burrata and yellowtail, that were nightly specials. However, it was the appetizers from the regular menu that were my favorites. Do not pass up the fried artichokes or the fava bean salad. The artichokes with fine herbs, sea salt, and lemon were perfectly crisp and light. The fava beans, mint, pea shoots, and pecorino salad was also extremely fresh and seasonal. Since the pizza invasion continues to prosper throughout the city, I figured I would put their exposed oven to the test. Both pies were a complete hit - especially the stracchino, buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula. Stracchino is cow's milk cheese that is soft and creamy - completely melt in your mouth and perfect on a pizza. As usual, finding it hard to pass up pasta on any Italian menu, we went with the orechiette with shrimp, roasted cauliflower, and bottarga. This was a delicious combination of ingredients that resembled a baked pasta dish. Emporio is the real deal as far as homemade cooking goes. Not only are diners exposed to the pizza oven, but they can also see into the kitchen as it uses organic eggs in creating each and every homemade pasta. It doesn't get more comforting than that.

In case we hadn't had enough of their delicious dough, we decided to finish off the meal with a nutella, hazelnut, and marscapone calzone. It was a wonderful taste of sweet and savory - a great way to round out a nice, long meal. As we waited out the departure of the rowdy table behind us, we were finally able to enjoy talking without having to shout. Given the high volume and two rooms full of crowded tables, I think Emporio seems to have settled into city life quite nicely - maybe even faster and better than I have in the end. I realized that one of my favorite parts of the evening was towards the end of the night, once the restaurant had quieted down. It was at that moment that Emporio actually resembled the comforts of a true country store. Yes, I'm a city girl, but definitely part-country too.



Emporio
231 Mott St.
New York, NY 10012
(212) 966-1234
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Rockmeisha

I have yet to make it to Japan. But, after my first trip to Asia last spring, my Eastern curiosities have been more than ignited. I am not certain when I will actually get back over there, but I do know that it will happen one of these days, although most definitely not in 2009. In the meantime, a simple trip down the street in the West Village has just taken me miles closer to this travel destination high on my priority list. With barely a foot off of Barrow Street through the doors and curtains of Rockmeisha, I was actually confused as to what country I was standing in. Hands down, the atmosphere alone is worth a visit to one of the newest additions to the izakaya craze in the city. The decor is incredible. Be sure to head there with a close friend as you may spend the majority of the evening mesmerized by the various distractions scattered throughout the restaurant. I can't decide if it was the televisions broadcasting Japanese variety shows, the chaos behind the sushi bar, the strategically placed figurines, or the eclectic "art displays" arranged on the walls and counters that seized my attention more throughout the night.

This establishment successfully lives up to the mission of an izakaya - not only attracting business men and women, but distracting them from the fast-paced business world. And, their trick, while partly in the food and drink (like most restaurants), mainly lies in the setting. Order up a round or two of draft Sapporos as it may be awhile before any food arrives - cooked or not. We were definitely baffled by what was going on back in the kitchen as our starters of raw okra and pork with bean sprouts appeared well into the night. But again, there was really too much going on around me to even focus on time. Had I not been wearing a watch, I probably would have never even noticed. Unfortunately, the presentation of these dishes in mini cast-iron pans was probably the highlight. I quickly learned, after looking around the room and noticing common traits on each table (tall glasses of beer and large bowls), the truth behind Rockmeisha - it's all in the noodles. This is a watering hole with amazing ramen. And, thankfully, that was what soon arrived in front of us. Honestly, as far as ramen goes, this one is a complete winner. The noodles were cooked almost al dente and the broth was extremely rich, quite creamy - an excellent combination for this Asian specialty. There is only one ramen option on the menu, so no decisions need even be made - ultimately, simplifying our lives even more after a long day at the office.

Rockmeisha is the very reason that I struggle with ratings. It truly was an experience - and one that I want to have again. While the food as a whole was not overly impressive, I cannot get that ramen out of my mind. As little decision-making as I took part in on my first trip there, I will have even less upon my return - a true luxury in my books. Scanning the room, it was apparent every one else had already figured out the magic duo - Sapporo and ramen. The other key to an evening at this izakaya is scoring a seat in prime location to one of its many televisions. Not to worry that the volume is turned down or if the Japanese subtitles overwhelm, the costumes and dance performances on screen will not disappoint. It's all about ambiance, noodles and improv at Rockmeisha - take it or leave it. This is one affordable and easy trip to Japan.



Rockmeisha
11 Barrow St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 675-7775
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):