Betel

It's pretty fascinating to ponder what drives "a scene" in New York. When a well-known, favorite chef decides to open a new outpost with a slightly different concept, there is most certainly a buzz in the air. As soon as a chef or owner breaks away from a thriving restaurant to start his or her own venture, New Yorkers are ready to pounce. Or even when a favorite restaurant closes down, diners eagerly anticipate what will open up in the coveted space. But, what I find most fascinating is the power of the unmarked door. Whether or not a restaurant falls into any of the previously mentioned categories, an unmarked door will automatically attract a crowd. Throw a prime West Village location in there and you've got yourself a scene.


In all honesty, I'm usually turned off by places that go out of their way to actually create a scene - typically the reason doors go unmarked. And when I read that Betel, the new upscale Thai restaurant in the West Village, had fallen prey to the unmarked door, I was a little disappointed. Nevertheless, scenes will always spark my curiosity - especially when they are so close to home - and I at least wanted to be the one to judge. Now, the big question is - is an unmarked door still an unmarked door when you walk by it and the man in front of it asks if you are looking for Betel? This inviting gesture immediately set Betel in an unmarked door category of it's own. It's amazing how far manners will take you. I like to think that Betel, instead of trying to be exclusive, is actually trying to be more personal - have a human welcome you, rather than a heartless sign.


There is still no denying that Betel is a scene right now so just be prepared for it. But, I just want to remind you that is not always a bad thing. I will take a welcoming scene any day over places that deny you even when calling exactly one month in advance at 9:01 am (Minetta Tavern...ahem). There is no secret code or phone line to make it through these unmarked doors. If you get there before or even during the rush as we were lucky enough to, you may even be seated right away. If not, you may have to wait a bit, but only while enjoying a fancy cocktail at their very comfortable, large bar. The communal table that takes up the middle of the restaurant is yet another gesture that encourages mixing and mingling so don't be shy if you end up dining with a few strangers. Even though this place is all about the sharing, the space is all that you will have to share with them.

With such a buzz in the air, there was certainly pressure for the food to meet my immediately raised expectations. The chef's use of exotic Southeast Asian ingredients kept the bar high. I recommend starting with the betel leaves, their signature appetizer. These are fresh, light, and crisp - and served one to an order. The smoked sea trout option prepared with trout, roe, shrimp, galangal and chili was a great combination of flavors and had a nice kick to it. I also recommend the pork and scallop cilantro dumplings with chili-garlic dipping oil as well as the salt and pepper cuttlefish with Vietnamese dipping sauce which can be served as a starter or a main. Order up a side of the broccolini with oyster sauce and ginger and you will be amazed by how something so green can be so full of flavor. While the stir fried tuna with chili jam, snake bean, cashew nut, Chinese broccoli, and Thai basil was underwhelming compared to the rest of the dishes we ordered, this was still a cut above any seafood order in a standard Thai restaurant. Both the Wagyu beef brisket and farmed chicken were delicious examples of the chef's ability to excel in both Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. The Vietnamese brisket is braised and prepared with long leaf cilantro, Vietnamese mint, and chili lime dressing. And the chicken is a southern curry with butternut squash, fried shallots, and Thai basil. Both dishes pop with the right amount of flavor and spice - and a nice balance of meat and vegetables.



While the crowds are not dying down any time soon at Betel, a meal here is still very probable. This really is the best kind of scene - one where you can enjoy exotic cocktails, where you can feast on delicious cuisine, and where you can get the door pointed out, opened, and even held for you. And when the crowds do start to die down, the excellent setting and food will still be right there with you.


Betel
51 Grove St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 352-0460
website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Xie Xie

I've always embraced the concept of a sandwich. It's truly a great excuse to pack as many of the food groups as possible into one place. The variety of combinations of breads, spreads, and ingredients is simply endless. And for someone who is not necessarily blessed with artistic creativity, sandwich-making can cater to my own creative energies. I am not afraid to make them for lunch and I am certainly not afraid to make a dinner out of them. In fact, I even crave a hearty dinner sandwich more often than I should probably admit. And so the recent trend of Asian sandwich shops opening throughout New York City has definitely caught my attention. As much as I love making them, I just as much enjoy having the right one made for me.

Hell's Kitchen's Xie Xie is the latest sandwich outpost that has met up to my high sandwich standards. This casual restaurant by no means attempts to replicate authentic Asian cuisine. Rather, it uses the best of Asian ingredients to create hearty, flavorful, and quick meals. While the menu is centered around sandwiches, there are also identical options in the form of salads. For those of you who are still frightened by the carb-heavy concept of a sandwich, I recommend these - the ingredients are so good that the salad form will be almost as acceptable!

You really cannot go wrong with any of the sandwiches on the menu - let your mood dictate your decision. But, if at all possible, I really recommend going with another person so that you can split two - this will be the perfect amount for a large lunch or a regular dinner. My favorites are the Vietnamese BBQ beef on a sesame roll with basil mayo and carrot kimchee slaw and the shredded braised chicken on a baguette with smoked egg salad and cilantro. The beef is prepared in an excellent, flavorful marinade which the mayo and slaw balance out perfectly. The smoked egg salad on the chicken sandwich makes the second option truly stand out. Both can (and should be) spiced up a bit with the sriracha sauce that, to my delight, adorns each and every table.

When I opt for a sandwich while eating out, I want it to be a creation that I couldn't easily replicate at home. The complexity of the flavors and ingredients offered at Xie Xie meets these standards and then some. While I will continue to be known as the Sandwich Maker in my family, they shouldn't count on any BBQ beef or braised chicken creations any time in the near future. I will always be more than happy to whip up exotic combinations involving deli meats, fresh and in-season vegetables, and gourmet spreads, but I will leave the Asian ingredients and influence to the pros.

Xie Xie

645 Ninth Avenue

New York, NY 10036

(212) 265-2975

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Havens of Happiness: Part 2 - San Diego

San Diego. The newest addition to my happy places. I have been traveling to southern California my entire life, but had never found a chance to venture too far south of LA-LA Land. At least once a year, I’ve been able to visit my western relatives - loving the change of scenery and change of pace. Never shy to remind me of the guaranteed blue skies every day and both mountains and beach in such close proximity, my family members are constantly asking me why I would ever live anywhere else. They do have a great point (especially post June 2009 on the rainy east coast). But, after seeing San Diego, it’s time I ask them why they haven’t moved even further south.


Now I could probably go on and on about what an amazing place San Diego is, but I know it’s the food that you are really interested in. And, yes, the food is, without question, one of the area’s highlights. How could my newest happy place not have fed me well? What I loved most about the dining in San Diego was the variety of authentic cuisine - and authentic cuisine done just right. Whether I was eating at Japanese, Vietnamese, or Mexican restaurants, it felt like the real deal, with no frills or fusion - a rarity for city dining. Another perk is being able to visit so many of the surrounding neighborhoods by car and not being stuck in hours of freeway traffic. In just a few trips to San Diego, I already feel like I’ve covered the grounds - from the beaches to the hills - and dined my way through them too.


First stop, Carlsbad - The Village Kitchen & Pie Shoppe, just off the highway in an unassuming location. To live in and/or visit the San Diego area without making a trip up here would be a sin - especially if you love brunch as much as I do. As I am never shy to mention, brunch is not only one of my favorite meals, but also one of my favorite things to do in NYC. And it’s always such a comfort to find that this exists outside of New York. In fact, I have been trying to think of a place comparable to the Pie Shoppe in NYC and am actually at a loss. This place is a true classic. A cross between a diner and a good old, southern-style family restaurant, the food is the best of both. From the simplest egg dishes to scrambles and omelets, you cannot go wrong - especially if you order up the biscuits and sausage patties. I’m now realizing southern cuisine should definitely include the west coast too - since the patties at the Pie Shoppe are as good as it gets back home. From the looks of the french toast, the cinnamon rolls, and the pies, I actually wish I could take this place home with me.


Next stop, Oceanside - Mr. Pho, a total dive. Don’t let its strip-mall location keep you away! I knew this place was a winner the minute I stepped inside and realized I was in the minority. I was actually surprised that there was an English menu. While I immediately recognized my Vietnamese favorites, the menu was endless - offering so many more variations of pho, vermicelli, and other specialties than I had ever imagined. We started with the spring rolls. I loved wrapping them in fresh mint leaves and dipping them in the light, sweet sauce on the table. The chicken pho was one of the most comforting soups I have ever tasted. I have never seen a bigger, cheaper bowl of soup that, at the same time, was absolutely fresh and delicious. The vermicelli with roasted pork is another great option - and as authentic as they come. All dishes are accompanied with the traditional Vietnamese sides - fresh vegetables, mint, limes, and sauces that you are free to add according to your liking.


Final stop, Old Town, San Diego - the Coyote Cafe. Once you hit up this neighborhood, you may actually think you have driven far enough south and ended up in Mexico. Could this be San Diego’s Little Mexico? No matter the direction you turn, there will be a Mexican restaurant or bar surrounding you. While at first glance it may be a challenge to pick out the hits from the misses in this festive area, I’ll help you out by directing you towards Cafe Coyote. You can and should sit outside either downstairs or on the upstairs deck and enjoy all that San Diego has to offer - warm evenings and authentic food, and just a step away from the border. The homemade chips and salsa waiting for us as we sat down reinforced our close proximity. Everything from the tostadas to the shrimp tacos to chicken enchiladas screamed both fresh and Mexico. It was the perfect ending to a day spent diving into the Pacific, driving from one beautiful beach to the next.

In all honesty, I cannot believe it has taken me more than 28 years to discover this place. But, I guess better late than never! And, it’s nice to know that there is always room for new happy places in our lives. I’ll keep enjoying the old, but am thrilled to welcome the new. And, the best part of happy places is that there is always a return-date. See you soon, San Diego!



Village Kitchen & Pie Shoppe
950 Tamarack Ave
Carlsbad, CA 92008
(760) 729-6414




Mr. Pho
4750 Oceanside Blvd # 821
Oceanside, CA 92056
(760) 940-1306




Cafe Coyote
2461 San Diego Avenue
San Diego, CA 92110
(619) 291-4695
menu

Baoguette meets Pho Sure

I (and the west village) had been feeling very left out from the banh mi craze that has been sweeping across much of New York. I kept reading about one opening after another of these trendy Vietnamese sandwich shops sprawling from the east village to midtown and even over to Brooklyn. I kept thinking that surely these tasty and affordable Vietnamese sandwiches would creep over to the west village, but it certainly did not happen right away. Well, I should never have doubted it's arrival. Not only did banh mi make its way west, but it did so with a companion. Baoguette's third location has paired up with Pho Sure, a pho shop. As if you didn't already know that I am a fan of this neighborhood, I really could not have dreamt up a better combo!

For those of you who are totally lost right now and are thinking that I'm speaking gibberish, banh mi and pho are Vietnamese specialties. For the sandwich lover, banh mi is a baguette traditionally served with thinly sliced pickled carrots and daikon, onions, cucumbers, cilantro, jalapeno peppers, and a form of roasted or grilled meat. For the soup fanatic, pho is a thinly sliced meat and noodle soup. It just so happens that I fall into both categories. At lunchtime, when most people are so often deciding between salad vs. sandwich or salad vs. soup, it's always soup vs. sandwich for me. And, as times are tough, this is often a dinnertime debate as well. While it took its precious time getting to me, Baoguette/Pho Sure certainly fits right in with the current state of our economy - especially when sticking to the basics.


If you are up for a tiny splurge, I really urge you to order the jicama rolls made with Chinese sausage, dry shrimp, basil, and peanut sauce. These are extremely light and fresh, yet much more tasty than the traditional summer roll (which I usually end up ordering in an attempt to be healthy, but quickly regret my decision after one bland bite). Thanks to jicama and Chinese sausage, two of my favorite ingredients, this was not the case. To also stray from the signature (or rather name dropping) dishes, the pork vermicelli is another great option. This cold noodle dish is served with lettuce, herbs, and peanuts. As with all their dishes, you can regulate the intensity of the heat by adding their red sauce to please your palate.


But, if you truly want to take advantage of reliable, affordable options, go straight for the banh mi and the pho. Both are great and for very different reasons. And, both are offered in traditional and non-traditional options. The banh mi can be ordered mild, medium, or spicy, whereas the pho, like the vermicelli, is self-adjusting. I loved the classic banh mi - pork terrine, pate, pulled pork and fresh herbs served with crunchy carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, and jalapenos. Despite the high number of ingredients included, the sandwich was actually quite manageable - not the least bit overstuffed (one of my biggest complaints about store/restaurant made sandwiches). The pho was definitely a heartier size, although I still somehow managed to nearly clean my bowl. There is also the option of ordering additional soup ingredients which could quickly turn the meal into a feast (and no longer as affordable). I say stick to the basics and you will walk away pleased. And that's pho sure...



Baoguette/Pho Sure
120 Christopher St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 929-0877
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):