Kin Shop

For the Top Chef fans out there, there was nothing quite like Season 1. While seven lucky chefs may have been crowned Top Chef over the past four years, there is really only one in my books. And when Harold Dieterle decided to open his first restaurant right around the corner from my first apartment in New York City, I definitely took that personally. Now that he has opened his second restaurant just a few blocks from my most current dwelling, I am convinced it is no coincidence - after all, I did just learn we both were married on the very same weekend this past year. Kindred food spirits, perhaps? It has definitely been a busy and exciting year for Harold as he opened a second venture where he has truly been able to display his culinary innovation and expertise that we all became so fond of through the television.


Kin Shop is named for the Thai word kin (to eat) as well as its relation and close proximity to Dieterle's original restaurant Perilla. It's name certainly does Thai food justice - especially on New York territory. I find it rare to come across an upscale Thai restaurant that still manages to embrace the true flavors of the region - even if this one does so with a sense of adventure. I only even label it upscale because the setting is actually appealing and quite cozy, all the while, still not too much of a scene. At most Asian restaurants in New York, I often find the atmosphere to lie at one end of the spectrum or the other. At Kin Shop, there is just the right balance of comfort and charm. Not to mention the right balance of both contemporary and classic Thai ingredients. While the menu offers dishes using very traditional Thai flavors, there are many elaborate combinations that demonstrate creativity from the other side of the world.

All of the dishes are meant to be shared - and no matter the size of them, they are perfect for it. We ordered several from each section and cleared the plates of each and every one. I highly recommend the warm sliced snap peas with diver seas scallops served with crispy shallots, pea greens, and toasted coconut. I also highly recommend the fried pork and crispy oyster salad topped with celery, peanuts, mint and a chili-lime vinaigrette. While the seafood adds a Western note to the dish, the Thai garnishes carry it right away from any form of familiarity. One of my favorite small plate options was the side selection of perfectly prepared, grilled eggplant served with rice pearls, fish sauce and mint. For any of the dishes, there is always the option of adding more heat or even a touch of sour as pots of Thai chiles and white vinegar arrive on each table as soon as the first dish arrives. Take care when adding the chiles as there is no turning back once these hit your system. Although, just to be safe, it's best to order the delicious side dishes of jasmine rice and crispy roti as they may be the perfect solution to bring back feeling to any numbed lips.

But, it was the larger plates that we were all most excited about. I can't decide which noodle dish I liked more as we all headed back for seconds on both. The pan fried crab vermicelli noodles are tossed with yellow chives, roasted chili, and tatsoi (a mustard green) and the stir fried wide wonton noodles are served with chicken sausage, thai broccoli rabe and oyster sauce. Best to satisfy both the seafood and meat cravings in ordering both. I also highly recommend the rabbit leg which has been steamed on the bone in a wet banana leaf leaving the meat tender and moist. This sour yellow curry was an extremely unusual and flavorful dish presented with multi-grain rice, eggplant chutney and thai basil. And finally, for one more spicy dish, go for the duck. The heat of the red curried roasted duck breast is offset with crispy roti, green mango, fresh herbs, and tamarind water that should all be wrapped in crisp green lettuce leaves. This is an excellent dish to give the chopsticks a rest and get your hands in on the action.

And while Asian restaurants are never high on my dessert curiosity list, we couldn't pass up the steamed passion fruit pudding as this seemed to be the most classically Thai dish on the menu. However, leave it to Harold to mix it up and serve it with buttermilk sherbet. Ingredients don't get more Western than buttermilk! And I have certainly used my fair share when making cornbread, fried chicken and pancakes. If only I had known how well it could be paired with passion fruit sauce and steamed pudding. Perhaps I could I have been more than just a Top Chef fan!



Kin Shop
469 Sixth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 675-4295
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Umi Nom

When looking to start a restaurant, most owners strive to set up shop in the most happening of neighborhoods. It's hard enough to stay open these days, so heading to the well-trafficked areas tends to ease some pressure, allowing them to focus on the actual kitchen. Well, meet Umi Nom's Chef King. He continues to do the opposite and continues to beat the odds. With the opening of Kuma Inn in 2003 on the second floor of a lower east side tenement, he was one of the first to discover this neighborhood that was not all that long ago considered a rough one. Now, one of the hottest areas in the city, the lower east side is home to countless high quality restaurants and bars, with a line continuously streaming out of Kuma Inn.


On the very outskirts of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, Chef King has opened up his latest, risky endeavor - Umi Nom. Similar to the successful Kuma Inn, the menu is a tribute to his upbringing, offering the most delicious Filipino and Thai creations. And similar to Kuma Inn, he has moved into an area that is still off the beaten path. In fact, the closest subway is the mysterious G train - have you ever even ridden on it? Nevertheless, when I visited midweek, the place filled up in no time. The neighborhood has certainly embraced this ethnic treasure and it won't be long before others follow suit. As the draw to Brooklyn continues, there is no doubt that this location will no longer seem so far off the map.


And the minute you enjoy the food, you too will realize the very reason that the G train continues to operate. All dishes are meant to be shared and don't hold back. They are all extremely well-priced and filling all at the same time - a carnivore's heaven. If there is one dish that you must order, it's the sauteed sweet sausage served with sticky rice and a Thai-chili lime sauce. We all know that sausage is my weakness, but honestly, this dish will make any one go weak at the knees. The sausage and the rice are both perfectly crisp on the outside, and soft on the inside. I also highly recommend the ma-banh beef tapa. This is fried, thinly sliced dried beef served with a smoked chili sauce. If that is not enough meat for you, try the grilled marinated pork chop served with fish sauce, plum sugar, lemongrass, and garlic. The charred, thin meat boasts extremely rich Asian flavors. I was also impressed with the umi nom crispy wings tossed in salt and anaheim peppers. This was an excellent Asian preparation for an American classic. You will also find more traditional rice and noodle dishes on the menu - which are all excellent as well. However, those dishes were not quite as original as the unique dishes that I mentioned above. The innovative dishes mixed with the traditional made for an eventful and satisfying evening from start to finish.

Now that summer has arrived, it's the perfect time of year for an adventure. A subway ride or two becomes a little less daunting as the days are longer, warmer, and just somehow more manageable all around. It's time to step out of your comfort zone, hope on that G train, and see what Umi Nom (and that delicious sweet sausage) is all about. Who knows, you may even discover your new favorite up-and-coming neighborhood and barely glimpse back at Manhattan. Based on Chef King's excellent location intuition, he may also be your perfect real estate guide.

Umi Nom
433 Dekalb Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11205
(718) 789-8806
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Betel

It's pretty fascinating to ponder what drives "a scene" in New York. When a well-known, favorite chef decides to open a new outpost with a slightly different concept, there is most certainly a buzz in the air. As soon as a chef or owner breaks away from a thriving restaurant to start his or her own venture, New Yorkers are ready to pounce. Or even when a favorite restaurant closes down, diners eagerly anticipate what will open up in the coveted space. But, what I find most fascinating is the power of the unmarked door. Whether or not a restaurant falls into any of the previously mentioned categories, an unmarked door will automatically attract a crowd. Throw a prime West Village location in there and you've got yourself a scene.


In all honesty, I'm usually turned off by places that go out of their way to actually create a scene - typically the reason doors go unmarked. And when I read that Betel, the new upscale Thai restaurant in the West Village, had fallen prey to the unmarked door, I was a little disappointed. Nevertheless, scenes will always spark my curiosity - especially when they are so close to home - and I at least wanted to be the one to judge. Now, the big question is - is an unmarked door still an unmarked door when you walk by it and the man in front of it asks if you are looking for Betel? This inviting gesture immediately set Betel in an unmarked door category of it's own. It's amazing how far manners will take you. I like to think that Betel, instead of trying to be exclusive, is actually trying to be more personal - have a human welcome you, rather than a heartless sign.


There is still no denying that Betel is a scene right now so just be prepared for it. But, I just want to remind you that is not always a bad thing. I will take a welcoming scene any day over places that deny you even when calling exactly one month in advance at 9:01 am (Minetta Tavern...ahem). There is no secret code or phone line to make it through these unmarked doors. If you get there before or even during the rush as we were lucky enough to, you may even be seated right away. If not, you may have to wait a bit, but only while enjoying a fancy cocktail at their very comfortable, large bar. The communal table that takes up the middle of the restaurant is yet another gesture that encourages mixing and mingling so don't be shy if you end up dining with a few strangers. Even though this place is all about the sharing, the space is all that you will have to share with them.

With such a buzz in the air, there was certainly pressure for the food to meet my immediately raised expectations. The chef's use of exotic Southeast Asian ingredients kept the bar high. I recommend starting with the betel leaves, their signature appetizer. These are fresh, light, and crisp - and served one to an order. The smoked sea trout option prepared with trout, roe, shrimp, galangal and chili was a great combination of flavors and had a nice kick to it. I also recommend the pork and scallop cilantro dumplings with chili-garlic dipping oil as well as the salt and pepper cuttlefish with Vietnamese dipping sauce which can be served as a starter or a main. Order up a side of the broccolini with oyster sauce and ginger and you will be amazed by how something so green can be so full of flavor. While the stir fried tuna with chili jam, snake bean, cashew nut, Chinese broccoli, and Thai basil was underwhelming compared to the rest of the dishes we ordered, this was still a cut above any seafood order in a standard Thai restaurant. Both the Wagyu beef brisket and farmed chicken were delicious examples of the chef's ability to excel in both Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. The Vietnamese brisket is braised and prepared with long leaf cilantro, Vietnamese mint, and chili lime dressing. And the chicken is a southern curry with butternut squash, fried shallots, and Thai basil. Both dishes pop with the right amount of flavor and spice - and a nice balance of meat and vegetables.



While the crowds are not dying down any time soon at Betel, a meal here is still very probable. This really is the best kind of scene - one where you can enjoy exotic cocktails, where you can feast on delicious cuisine, and where you can get the door pointed out, opened, and even held for you. And when the crowds do start to die down, the excellent setting and food will still be right there with you.


Betel
51 Grove St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 352-0460
website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):