Packie's Food and Wine

Happy St. Patty's Day! I know, I know, I'm a day late. But, admit it - you had so much fun celebrating yesterday that you were actually wishing you could prolong the day. Hopefully, this will help. And after finally making my first trip to the Emerald Isle this winter, I feel even more compelled to celebrate and praise the Irish for as many days as possible. If I could find a reason to talk about Ireland every day, I really would. I just can't believe it took me 29 years to discover the place! I had always been eager to wander the lush, green landscape and enjoy a few pints with the locals. But, in all honesty, I had never imagined the food would be anything to write home about. When was the last time I raved about a meal at an Irish restaurant?

I really I had no right asking that question having never visited Ireland. And, had I been there before, my answer most certainly would have been: "In Ireland!" I am not only writing home about their food, but I am praising them for it. I think the Irish have it figured out - they have kept the best of their cuisine confined to their own little island - fooling us all into thinking they couldn't see past meat and potatoes. Of course you will find both meat and potatoes on nearly every menu; but, they certainly know how to turn them into so much more - making me think twice whenever I now walk by an Irish pub in New York. Although, I know better than to stop and see if it can compare. To truly taste Ireland, you've got to get to Ireland.


My preconceived images of gorgeous landscapes and friendly Irishmen do not even begin to do them justice. Everything is just that much greener and that much jollier in person. And that is exactly how I feel about their cuisine, especially after dining at Packie's Food and Wine in Kenmare. Located in the southwest of the country, this picturesque town is situated on the Kenmare Bay, in County Kerry linking the Iveragh and the Beara Peninsulas. For nearly two decades, this tiny restaurant has taken all the concepts that Americans love and produced some of the freshest, gourmet dishes ready to take on any fine dining scene. With a focus on organic produce and fresh seafood, Packie's offers a menu that still has an Irish stamp on it. A basket of their brown bread, one of my favorite culinary discoveries during the trip, greeted us at the start of the meal. Wherever I went, I could not get enough of this national delicacy. At Packie's, I was careful to save room for our meal since the romantic, cozy setting alone had convinced me that I was in for a real treat.

We started the meal with potato pancakes and mussels in a garlic, white wine sauce. The potato pancakes were out of this world - a dish that is usually just so simple and mediocre, actually blew me away as they were full of flavor (most likely butter), while perfectly crisp. It takes a great deal for potatoes (besides French fries) to get me this excited. The mussels were, in their own way, equally as exciting. They were extremely fresh and infused with garlic. I soon realized that the Irish are not afraid of garlic - another sign that I was destined to discover and love Irish cuisine. For main courses, I highly recommend the roast rack of lamb with rosemary, red currant sauce and lentils. This is a simple, yet elegant preparation. The monkfish has been on the menu for years - and for good reason. It is roasted with a garlic and ginger crust and served with a thai dipping sauce. All dishes are offered with sides. The colcannon, an Irish specialty of mashed potatoes with cabbage and bacon, gave me reason number two to love the Irish handiwork with potatoes that night. And really, isn't everything better with bacon? For a lighter option, go with the simple green salad tossed with a light vinaigrette. It reminded me of being in a French bistro where the side salads are served with little dressing, yet just enough to fully appreciate such a simple vegetable.

While Packie's was certainly a night of fine dining in Ireland, I can easily declare that the food throughout the rest of my journey continued to impress me. Whether I was enjoying a "toasted special" - ham, tomato, and cheese toasted sandwich- or a seafood stew at a casual pub, the culinary talent was right up my alley. I'll take both shabby and chic, as long as the flavors are right on. And, I really do think the Irish are wise. Some may view it as keeping the best to themselves, while I like to think they are just perfecting their ability to host. The Irish are truly some of the most hospitable people I have encountered - so long as you head to their little gem of an island!

Packie's Food and Wine

Henry Street

Kenmare, County Kerry

Ireland

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Rouge Tomate

America, meet Rouge Tomate - the latest European import straight off of Fifth Avenue. No need to window shop past this one. There's room for all styles and sizes inside - as long as you are willing to check all insecurities at the door. I do think this restaurant was strategically placed. This may be a first-time experience where you feel so good after eating a three course meal that you head straight over to Madison and try on those clothes you were eyeing earlier. Originating in Brussels seven years ago, the restaurant has finally found its second home in New York City. My only question is why it has taken so long to get here?! In an age where obesity headlines American news, this is just what the neighborhood, city, and country ordered.

Rouge Tomate is the spa of all restaurants - focusing on balance and health in its food. Their concept dispels the myth that high-end dining is bad for you. I definitely feel that eating out too much (basically not being able to control ingredients) is why Americans are so unhealthy. And, let's be realistic - who really goes out and stops themselves from finishing off an amazing dish even though they are well aware that the portion could probably feed a small family? Well, head over to Rouge Tomate and you no longer have to rely on willpower. You can finish off an entire meal and not feel guilty about it. The chefs, working with nutritionists on each and every dish and drink, prepare everything so that you no longer have to think about being unhealthy. For just one meal, you can turn off your brain and let your stomach do the talking. And, the chefs guarantee to answer with balanced, delicious, and even hearty dishes - a combination that is truly hard to come by.

The best part about the experience is that it's not in your face trying to be healthy - that would be a complete turn off for me. I still like to envision a chef with butter, oil, and sugar running between burners. While this may not be the case in this kitchen, the menu looks like any other - offering everything from red meats to pastas to foie gras. However, I did love knowing deep down that no matter what I ordered, it wouldn't haunt me on the beaches of Charleston the next weekend. Since I can get beer or wine anywhere, I decided to start off with one of their signature juices - the Green Tornado - tarragon, spinach, butter lettuce, fennel, mint and lemon juice. My curiosity took over and I had to order it. Since it was front and center on the menu, I guess I should not have been surprised when it was extremely refreshing and tasty - basically a crisp, green lemonade.

The starters were my favorite part of the evening. We shared spring pea risotto, tuna poke, and white asparagus. The Tombo Tuna Poke was served with sugar snap peas, honshimeji mushrooms, jicama, and sesame. This was delicious. The raw fish was extremely fresh and cut into large chunks mixed perfectly with the bold flavors of the vegetables. I also loved the warm white and green asparagus with black trumpets, farm egg, dandelion, and Banyuls vinaigrette. This was a very hearty and slightly deceptive dish - making me think twice about how they could have possibly prepared it in such a healthy manner and yet, taste so good. But, the key at Rouge Tomate is to trust the chefs - and this was my first reminder to keep doing just that. The mains continued to be almost as baffling. While they all were extremely fresh and well-balanced, it amazed me how the chefs truly brought flavors together, again allowing the mind to forget about the restaurant's underlying mission. For those who like whole fish, the whole brook trout stuffed with wilted arugula and served with french green lentils, capers, and citrus gremolada is an excellent option. While served whole, the fish is deboned and extremely delicate and moist. I was also really impressed with the fettuccine with morel mushrooms, fava beans, parsley mint pesto, and toasted almond - spring is in the air (and plate)! It's impossible for me to pass up anything with the combination of fava beans and mint.

Now, at this point in the evening, some diners may claim to be full. Others, like myself, will admit to being full, but with a tiny section open for dessert. I recommend making room for a taste or two more - as the final touches are very good, yet modest in size. As mentioned earlier, stop thinking and just enjoy. Have faith in the chefs of Rouge Tomate as you can certainly handle one last innocent splurge. For the fruit lover, go for the Meyer lemon custard on olive oil cake served with frozen yogurt parfait and blood oranges. The chocolate lover should opt for the caramelized banana napoleon served with roasted banana sorbet and hot cocoa. Both are great, but certainly will not set you over the edge - and that's a promise. That dress down the street is still calling your name.

Like any great spa, there were numerous personal touches throughout the evening that made the entire experience memorable and borderline addictive. Yes, I will definitely be heading back to Rouge Tomate for more pampering in the near future. While the amuse-bouche at the start of the meal definitely set the stage, the palate cleanser before dessert certainly sealed the deal. Since I can admit I will never be able to rely on willpower when in the face of gourmet food, it's nice to know I can head to a spot where I can turn my brain off, but still be kept in line. Spa and dinner for the price of one. Now that's a recession deal if I've ever heard one.



Rouge Tomate
10 E. 60th st.
New York, NY 10022
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):