Thursday, February 25, 2010

Radegast Hall & Garden

I am here to tell you about a single piece of food. Never before have I centered an entire post around one item. But, never before had I imagined that something found on nearly every other street corner in New York City could stand out with such gusto in my mind. And believe it or not, I am actually not referring to a pork product - but rather, a vegetarian option - the hot pretzel.

I have always had a weakness for soft pretzels. As a child, when visiting the streets of New York, attending a sporting event, or even passing through an airport or train station, I felt it was my duty to indulge in a hot pretzel. In all honesty, there was really no difference among the vendors (well, besides Auntie Annie's, and those are too thin and greasy to even fall into the soft pretzel category that I am referring to) - and I was just fine with that. A hot pretzel was a hot pretzel. I crave(d) them and was able to get my fix at least every other month. Well, that was the case until last weekend when I discovered Radegast Hall & Garden, Williamsburg's very own German beer garden.


I don't mean to detract from the excellent setting and festive vibe that you will encounter in this German transplant - or even the impressive selection of beer, sausages, brats, and kielbasa. Those are all wonderful, in fact. However, it is the Bavarian pretzel that will truly blow your mind - and actually take over your mind for even days after you have headed home. At least, that has been the case for me. Our table ordered one. Although these are larger than a traditional street pretzel, that was certainly not enough. We ordered a second - again, not enough. And while the third was finally proclaimed as enough - I will be completely frank now and admit that we could have gone for one or even a few more.

So what is it about Radegast's hot pretzel that places it in such a league of its own? I'm not sure how accurately and professionally I can really break apart and analyze a pretzel. But, for starters, it's the flavor - the right balance between salt and butter. It's the texture - not too hard or overcooked. And, it's the sides - homemade spicy mustard for dipping (although it is equally as delicious on its own), sea salt, and pickles. Even so, none of what I have just described can even begin to do this pretzel justice. Hopefully, this one track post has plead my case.

And, if not, just hop on the L train and see for yourself. It doesn't get much easier as it's the first stop in Brooklyn - and after one bite of the Radegast pretzel, those convenient street vendors will start to feel miles away. And, in the meantime, here's one more look at pretzel heaven. I'll see you there.




Radegast Hall & Garden
113 North Third St.
Brooklyn, NY 11211
(718) 963-3973
website
PRETZEL RATING (Out of 5):


Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Jo's

Life is good. Or at least, it should be. And I've got just the place to convince you of this. Take a walk through charming Nolita, down Elizabeth street, and stroll into Jo's at 264. You will simply feel it in the air - yes, in this coveted NYC restaurant space, life is good. Have a leisurely meal with a loved one or a few, grab a post dinner drink with one of their signature cocktails at the bar, wake up the next day thinking back on your evening, and life is still good.

Meet the newest neighborhood bistro where both neighbors and non-neighbors feel right at home. In mission and execution, Jo's is all about comfort - truly accommodating its patrons. The three options for drinking and dining perfectly serve its all-inclusive nature. The bar room as you walk in is a great spot to meet a few friends or even a date, whether you are sitting at the bar or closer to the windows in prime people-watching position. Head to the dining room in the back of the restaurant and you could find yourself with that same group of friends, date, or even dining with your parents. The room is warm and comfortable with elegant mirrors hanging on the walls - just in case you weren't done with the people-watching. And, there is even one more option that if you aren't paying attention, you just might miss- a private dining room behind what appear to be sliding barn doors, serving as blackboards offering the nightly specials. This is a great spot for a celebration or even just a family style meal as it can hold up to 45 people. I'll say it again, Jo's is all about making the space and experience work for you. And since we all have very different needs, that's no easy task (but that still doesn't stop them from making it happen).


In case you are wondering what the catch is, I am right there with you as I am still trying to figure that out too. And to add to this mystery, on top of the various accommodating dining options, there are numerous special promotions. Not only does Jo's work for you, they are also working for the times. Every night from 5 to 8 pm - there is a happy hour drink special and Monday through Friday oysters are $1. And yes, for the drinks, that is seven days a week - a true rarity for happy hour deals. On Sunday nights, they offer a $21 three course Sunday supper. However, these offers and the charm of the restaurant are ultimately a success because of what is going on behind the kitchen doors.


While the vibe and setting are casual, the menu is a cut above - offering everything from casual comfort food to upscale, gourmet creations. Check out the soup of the day as I most recently was warmed up by the sunchoke and apple bisque. I highly recommend starting with the grilled octopus salad tossed with frisee, celery leaves, basil, almonds, vinegar and chili oil. This was an extremely unique preparation of octopus, highlighted by the use of the almond slivers and spice in the oil. If offered, do not miss out on the truffled farm egg baked over white polenta with cured ham and a balsamic drizzle - the ultimate example of adding luxe to basic foods. The only dish I was disappointed in was the crispy pork ribs in a garlic-glaze with shiso and peanuts. With a little less sauce, the dish could have been right on par with the rest of the options - aka, I'm willing to give it another go.

The main courses are offered "a la carte" or "old school" - meaning as a simple protein or with accompaniments. The chef does such a great job pairing the sides that I highly encourage you to stick to the recommended combinations. While the free range chicken and shell steak seemed to be in high demand throughout the restaurant, there are several other main dishes that, while a touch or two more gourmet, can still offer this same level of comfort. The seared scallops were served with a smoked mango puree, yuzu gelee and jalapenos - the smoky and spicy fruit creations truly brought unique flavors to this shellfish. For a heartier dish, I recommend the garganelli pasta - a three cheese blend with mushrooms, truffle oil, and cured ham. I cannot imagine any one who would not inhale this rich blend of flavors. But, the ultimate dish that I was completely (and unexpectedly) blown away by was the seared striped bass with potato puree, snap pea emulsion, and sopressata topped with a grilled red onion. The fish was perfectly crispy, embracing the emulsion and flavors of the fresh ingredients.

That's the fun of Jo's - you can order the basics or you can go straight for the bells and whistles. Either way, you aren't breaking the bank, just possibly your waistline. So instead of trying to figure out what the catch is, it's time to realize there isn't always one - a concept that will probably shock most New Yorkers. It's time to let our guards down and embrace a restaurant that is still a little under the radar. At Jo's, there are no strings attached (at least not yet). Yup, life really can be that good!

Jo's Bistro on Urbanspoon


Jo's
264 Elizabeth St.
New York, NY 10012
(212) 966-9640
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Xie Xie

I've always embraced the concept of a sandwich. It's truly a great excuse to pack as many of the food groups as possible into one place. The variety of combinations of breads, spreads, and ingredients is simply endless. And for someone who is not necessarily blessed with artistic creativity, sandwich-making can cater to my own creative energies. I am not afraid to make them for lunch and I am certainly not afraid to make a dinner out of them. In fact, I even crave a hearty dinner sandwich more often than I should probably admit. And so the recent trend of Asian sandwich shops opening throughout New York City has definitely caught my attention. As much as I love making them, I just as much enjoy having the right one made for me.

Hell's Kitchen's Xie Xie is the latest sandwich outpost that has met up to my high sandwich standards. This casual restaurant by no means attempts to replicate authentic Asian cuisine. Rather, it uses the best of Asian ingredients to create hearty, flavorful, and quick meals. While the menu is centered around sandwiches, there are also identical options in the form of salads. For those of you who are still frightened by the carb-heavy concept of a sandwich, I recommend these - the ingredients are so good that the salad form will be almost as acceptable!


You really cannot go wrong with any of the sandwiches on the menu - let your mood dictate your decision. But, if at all possible, I really recommend going with another person so that you can split two - this will be the perfect amount for a large lunch or a regular dinner. My favorites are the Vietnamese BBQ beef on a sesame roll with basil mayo and carrot kimchee slaw and the shredded braised chicken on a baguette with smoked egg salad and cilantro. The beef is prepared in an excellent, flavorful marinade which the mayo and slaw balance out perfectly. The smoked egg salad on the chicken sandwich makes the second option truly stand out. Both can (and should be) spiced up a bit with the sriracha sauce that, to my delight, adorns each and every table.

When I opt for a sandwich while eating out, I want it to be a creation that I couldn't easily replicate at home. The complexity of the flavors and ingredients offered at Xie Xie meets these standards and then some. While I will continue to be known as the Sandwich Maker in my family, they shouldn't count on any BBQ beef or braised chicken creations any time in the near future. I will always be more than happy to whip up exotic combinations involving deli meats, fresh and in-season vegetables, and gourmet spreads, but I will leave the Asian ingredients and influence to the pros.


Xie Xie
645 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10036
(212) 265-2975
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Choptank

I still haven't gotten over the closing of The John Dory. It was just about a year ago that I was raving about this new, hopping seafood spot. Maybe I jumped the gun in thinking that a nautical themed restaurant could actually last more than a few months outside of Times Square. I still stand by its excellent cuisine as apparently it was the location that determined the restaurant's fate. Upon the end of the summer closing, owners April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman quickly claimed to be reopening as soon as they found the right neighborhood setting. A few months ago I was ready to tell them to hurry on up! However, the former owner of Dell'Anima and L'Artusi has already beaten them to the punch and opened up Choptank, the newest seafood hotspot on prime West Village real estate - all the while offering prices that are even more right.

And this seafood restaurant rings even closer to my heart as it is inspired by the cuisine of the Chesapeake Bay, home to the blue crab and some of my fondest childhood memories. Note: order up the crab! With both an eat-in bar up front and an oyster bar in the middle of the restaurant, Choptank offers all kinds of drinking and dining options. However, the complimentary old bay chips and crab dip offered upon table dining should be motivation to settle in for more than a drink. These homemade chips alone are delicious- perfectly crispy with a dusting of old bay. And the crab dip is made with fresh chunks of crab meat and mixed with just the right amount of mayo.

The menu is divided into raw bar, nibbles, starters, steam pot, seafood, and meat sections - all excellent for sharing. I was lucky enough to share the evening with Kristin of The Pearl Onion. In case you hadn't noticed already, these beautiful, standout photographs are compliments of her! I recommend starting with the roasted wild mushrooms with warm egg yolk as one of the few non-seafood options. But, it's really the perfectly tender braised octopus with paprika, potatoes and arugula that stands out. And, as tempted as I was to try either the fried chicken or other meat options, it was really the seafood that I went for during the rest of the meal - and I have no regrets doing so. Although they sound quite standard, the littleneck clams served in a garlic butter and herb sauce with country toast is a must. I highly advise ordering extra bread to soak up this sauce as it is a butter-lover's heaven. And as soon as the soft, warm bread came out, I knew it was a great sign for the fried oyster po' boy ahead. The traditional sandwich certainly lived up to its expectations and more as it was served with pickle slaw, ranch dressing, and tobacco onions. I cannot seem to get the combination of flavors with the slaw, in particular, out of my mind. But, the signature dish that should really not be missed is the jumbo lump crab cake served with haricot verts, salad, and saltines (yes, the most comforting, basic cracker in the cupboard). I almost always hesitate to order crab cake when I dine out since nine times out of ten the dish is overly breaded and fried leaving me longing for my mother's recipe. However, her Maryland based recipe uses saltines - what I now realize to be an award-winning ingredient!


Since I can already call the crab cake an old favorite, I definitely see myself spending many winter evenings ahead at Choptank. And as soon as the days start heating up (which sadly according to the Groundhog will not be for awhile), this spot will so easily transition to satisfy those summer seafood cravings. I have long been searching for the NYC restaurant with paper tablecloths and peel and eat 'em shrimp on the menu. It's hard to believe that it has finally arrived and just a few blocks from where I live. And despite my recent track record with seafood spots, I have no hesitations in claiming Choptank as a keeper.




Choptank
308 Bleecker St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 675-2009
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Monday, January 25, 2010

Bouchon Bakery

Malls are typically not a New York City feature - something I first loved about this city when moving here. I could finally walk through open air and in the streets to take care of my shopping needs. Gone were the days of getting lost in a huge parking deck only to enter a closed interior overwhelmed by smells of the food court and teens lining up at Piercing Pagodas. However, as with most things no matter what they really are, when you can't have them, you actually want them or even crave them. And now, the thought of heading to a mall secretly excites me! Sure, I prefer the more upscale, open-air ones, but there is something I find charming about knowing I can cater to all of my shopping needs in one fell swoop.


And so, it came as no surprise that when I was en route to a holiday lunch at Bouchon Bakery, my boss that lives out in Westchester, home to one of the greatest malls around, hardly shared in my excitement of heading to a mall for lunch. I have no doubt that images of food courts and frantic holiday shoppers were all that came to mind during that subway ride. However, the Shops at Columbus Circle are truly unique. Whether it's the fact that this shopping mall is home to a three star Michelin restaurant or to the Samsung Experience where no products are actually sold, these shops have figured out how to charm and can still be called a mall! It certainly did not take long after we were seated at the communal table at the Bakery for my boss to feel both at ease and still far from the 'burbs.


There is no denying that part of the charm of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery is indeed its setting in the middle of the hustle and bustle of a mall (in traditional food court fashion). However, unlike most mall dining, this restaurant overlooks Columbus Circle and the base of Central Park - a NYC setting at its best. On a rainy day, the scene below can actually be quite romantic. And, on a sunny day, the scene is spectacular. No matter the weather, time of day, or day of the week, the food measures right up to that magnificent view. The menu is made up of soups, salads, sandwiches, and bakery selections. I almost always struggle with my decision since I so rarely lunch out - especially in this area. However, I've quickly learned, that you truly cannot go wrong as I have yet to leave The Shops unsatisfied (that is, only after dining there).

My all time favorite option is the tomato soup and grilled cheese - a San Marzano tomato soup with grilled fontina and gruyere cheese sandwich. This is comfort food, at its upscale best - one of my all-time favorite lunch combinations done to perfection. On my last trip, I ventured out and tried the wagyu beef brisket with house-made cole slaw and pimento aioli on caraway rye. This was an excellent, gourmet variation on a classic pastrami sandwich. The vegetarian option, roasted squash with brie, arugula, and pear marmalade on toasted country bread, was a seasonal treat, new to the menu, but hopefully sticking around for at least another season - a great combination of fresh flavors. I recommend ordering one of their sandwiches as this is an excellent way to sample their bread - one of the highlights of the bakery. And each one is accompanied by a simple French salad, dressed with a light vinaigrette that is reminiscent of the classic French topping. However, it is always tough to pass up the homemade quiche of the day. No matter the filling, this French delicacy will be light and fluffy with both a buttery and flaky crust that will melt in your mouth. If you do order this, I still recommend indulging in the bread and butter as they are truly not to be missed!

And, since you are at a mall where no meal would be complete without TCBY, Dippin' Dots, or Cinnabon (yes, I did just give a shout out to Dippin' Dots), dessert is a must at Bouchon Bakery. The homemade cookies with ice cream are hard to resist. But, for a real treat, ask for the macaroons from the take-out bakery - the caramel and chocolate are the ultimate sweet. I never imagined I could be transported back to Paris while seated in a mall - but Bouchon Bakery has done the impossible. If only every day I could eat in a food court!





Bouchon Bakery
10 Columbus Circle
Third Floor
New York, NY 10019
(212) 823-9366
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Oh Haiti! (A Quick Follow Up)

I just wanted to post a quick follow-up to my post last week. I'm proud to report that numerous NYC restaurants have banded together in response to the disaster in Haiti.

On Sunday, January 24th (or Monday as noted), the restaurants listed below will donate 10% of their restaurant proceeds, voluntary donations from their staff (which have been highly encouraged), and any additional donations from diners to Haitian charities of their choice.

A Sunday night dinner out is always an excellent way to prolong the weekend. And, in the wake of a long weekend, this coming one already feels a bit too short. While it's only Tuesday, it's time to start planning - time to make sure you get the most out of this weekend. And as the days continue to pass since the January 12th earthquake and our days become filled with our normal routines, we still need to make sure the momentum of our efforts continues to remain as strong as ever.

See you Sunday at....
  • Aldea (Monday)
  • Bar Breton
  • Cabrito
  • Fatty Crab
  • Hill Country
  • ilili
  • Rouge Tomate (Monday)
  • La Esquina
  • Tribeca Grill
  • Cru
  • 10 Downing Food & Wine
  • 5 Ninth
  • The Mermaid Inn
  • The Mermaid Oyster Bar
  • Otto
  • Babbo
  • Lupa
  • Del Posto
  • Tarry Lodge
  • Casa Mono
  • Bar Jamon
  • Pizzeria Mozza
And check out the official website for more information!

Friday, January 15, 2010

Oh Haiti!

I don't even know where to begin. Each time I even think about all that is going on down in Haiti right now, I get a sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach. And I know I'm not the only one that feels this way. It has felt weird to even think about food, not to mention writing about it. In an effort to try and actually do something from a seemingly helpless New York City, I have started to feel a sense of comfort by the impact that words alone have been making.

After learning that the American Red Cross earned over $4 million in $10 donations simply by cell phone users texting "Haiti" to 90999, I felt my first glimmer of hope. This effort, which could not be made easier, has been made possible through messages spanning from Facebook to Twitter to local news stations - and continues to ask for donations. I have also heard directly from earthquake survivors in Haiti who reiterate that donations to the Red Cross and Partners in Health are the best way for us to truly help from afar right now.

I have since been reading about efforts within the New York City restaurant scene that have slowly made me realize this town has more to offer than at first glimpse. While certain restaurants are offering individual specials, such as at Hearth where on Tuesday, January 19th they will be donating 50% of the gross revenues from that evening to relief work, there are also plans for the entire restaurant community to band together in charity initiatives. There is currently a push to have all restaurants donate 10% of proceeds and 5% of gratuity earned on Sunday, January 25th. Eater.com has been promoting the citywide PR initiative, so check it out here for updates. If that isn't a reason alone to dine out next week, then we should probably all never leave the house!

And so, I still continue to sigh. There is certainly a long long long road ahead. Although, it is up to each of us to play some part (large or small, whatever it may be) in the days ahead. And whether that means spreading the word, directly donating money, hopping on a plane to Haiti, or even dining out in New York, we can at least do our best to keep up the hope during these beyond tough times.