Tartinery

Although it doesn't sound it, the word tartine can often be quite foreign and confusing for Americans. However, it is simply yet another example of a single French word that encompasses several American ones. While my all time favorite word like this is "flaner" (to wander aimlessly), tartine is right up there with it as it describes an excellent culinary concept - the open-faced sandwich. Leave it to the French to knock off that extra slice of bread, improving both presentation and calorie intake. Is it really still any wonder why French Women Don't Get Fat?


My love of sandwiches and anything French is no secret. And so the opening of Tartinery in Nolita caught my attention immediately. One aspect I liked most was knowing that this restaurant was set up for both lunch AND dinner. Too often my favorite sandwich spots pack up shop around 7 pm and would never dream of selling alcohol. Tartinery, as with most French establishments, encourages both lingering and the consumption of all kinds of wine and beer. While the setting has a more modern, New York feel, the waitstaff transport you immediately back to France. This is the kind of place that will drive many Americans nuts as they simply let you be. It is actually up to you to let your waiter know when you are ready to order - and when you do, it's almost as if you have interrupted them from their own night out. For those of you who have spent any time in France, you are nodding your head right now, remembering this strange sense of service - and hopefully smiling too as you had quickly learned to almost appreciate this idiosyncrasy. For the others, I do warn, this will be a true test of patience.


This kind of service is usually excusable as the food delivered to the table makes it well worth the attitude. However, Tartinery still has some work to do in its kitchen to really transport me back to France. While the sandwiches were indeed all open-faced, the large amount of food placed on top brought me right back to America. They do have a wonderful list of sandwich selections with very interesting flavor combinations, but I really do believe it would serve them well to offer them with French portions. All of the tartines are served on multi-grain or rustic sourdough Poilane (from the famous French boulanger) and accompanied with a house salad. They cut them up into four portions, so I highly recommend sharing several. My favorite was the roast farm chicken topped with homemade herbed mayo, shaved fennel, and olive oil. This was extremely comforting and nicely balanced. I also really enjoyed the goat cheese tartine topped with frisee, honey, olive oil, and fresh thyme. Besides overkill on the frisee, the portions actually were appropriate on this sandwich. I was a little disappointed by the Saint Marcellin cheese tartine with bayonne ham, arugula, and olive oil. It would have worked much better had the cheese not been melted into the sandwich (and, of course, with a little less ham).Be sure to ask about the daily specials since there are few other non-tartine items on the menu. We enjoyed a really nice shrimp risotto that was creamy and actually served in a French portion.

New York really does need more spots like this. Tartinery is a wonderful restaurant for groups as it is affordable, great for sharing, and actually fairly large once you head downstairs. It is just a shame that a French concept has been so Americanized already. While the waiters know exactly which side of the pond they represent, the kitchen still seems to be in the middle of an identity crisis. I am hopeful that as the chic upstairs bar draws in the crowds the French attitude will start to rule in the back as well. And so as the French say, "bon courage!"




Tartinery
209 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 300-5838
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Mermaid Oyster Bar

In recent years, lobster rolls have been the center of attention for seafood delicacies in New York City. And this trend has certainly not died down in the epic, hot summer of 2010. It was just last month that Tasting Table declared Luke's Lobster to be the best roll in town. While these delicious sandwiches definitely succeed in having the ocean meet the city, I can only have one every so often. Lobster will always be my favorite food, but probably because it is not an everyday affair. In the summer, I need and crave seafood - but lobster will only satisfy a portion of those needs. Oysters, on the other hand, could certainly become a more regular habit. I have recently found myself seeking out the best, freshest locations for my new favorite seafood delicacy.

The Mermaid Inn has always been known for it's amazing seafood selection - and actually, their lobster roll. Don't get me wrong, theirs continue to be delicious and one of my first stops for the famous sandwich. But, it's Mermaid Oyster Bar that recently opened in the west village that has now caught my attention. I have always been a fan of anything Mermaid Inn and hearing about the focal point of their new spot had me at oyster. Minus the outdoor space, the setting is similar (although smaller) to its other locations - a whitewashed, wooden interior creating a laid-back atmosphere. I have a feeling no matter the time of year you are sitting in here, you will actually always feel some sense of summer.

And their selection of raw oysters from both coasts is perfect for someone like me - a medium sized list with actual descriptions of the oysters. As much as I could try to pretend like I have already become an oyster connaisseur, I won't even begin. I do know it when I like them - and the ones at Mermaid Oyster Bar were all entirely fresh and delicious. I am a big fan of the Fanny Bays from Vancouver, described as "plump with cucumbery sweetness." Also from the west coast, the Kumamotos, "melony-sweet, plump, creamy," were so full of flavor that I didn't even touch the mignonette sauce. The crisp, refreshing Pemaquids from Maine, "bois salinity, icy waters," truly tasted as though they had just come out of the water. When oysters are this good, I have a hard time not ordering them in all shapes and forms. We also inhaled a delicious plate of fried oysters on a bed of sauteed spinach served with tartar sauce.

For another extremely refreshing dish, I highly recommend the local fluke ceviche. The fish is marinated in ground chilis, ginger, and a 3 crab sauce. The flavors are excellent and between the heat and spices, create an extremely cleansing feeling on a hot mid-summer evening. I also had to try their fish tacos as I had not seen this option previously on a regular Mermaid Inn menu (although I am now certain they are a special on Tuesday nights in the east village). Three tacos are served with tilapia, cabbage, pico de gallo, and crema. They actually remind me of my favorite fish taco recipe that I have made twice in the last month - and that is definitely a great thing since I have only been able to make them when in easy access to a grill. A side of the cole slaw was a perfect complement to the tacos and the rest of the seafood. I cannot seem to ever get enough slaw in the summertime either - especially when it is prepared with the right balance of vinegar and mayonnaise as done here.

It is always a comfort when the new locations of your old favorites hold to their very own style and traditions. And, as with true Mermaid Inn tradition, the Oyster Bar offers no dessert menu. Never fear, sweet-toothers! Without even asking or paying, a mini pot de chocolat with homemade whipped cream will arrive at your place along with a fortune teller miracle fish. I'm not sure which complimentary gift excites me more! However, on my outing to Mermaid Oyster Bar last week, I was sure that oysters and delicious seafood bring out the passion in me - a little red fish told me so.

Mermaid Oyster Bar

79 MacDougal Street

New York, New York 10012

(212) 260-0100

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

A Day in Big Sur

Hi. I'm here! Well, mostly - here meaning, in California. Apologies to all as this has probably been the longest stretch I've had on The Hungry Roach without sharing my adventures with you. Summer is one of those bittersweet times in New York City. It's the time of year that the city simply clears out as most offices embrace some sort of summer hours policy or, if not, the heat is enough to drive you right out. So, here I sit - in cool, southern California, bracing for tonight's red-eye only to drop me off right in the middle of a typical, New York City summer heatwave. But, in all honesty, that's the fun of living in New York. The city keeps you on your toes, so much so that you just might be forced to get out and explore. And this summer, I have definitely taken advantage of escaping the heat.


One of my latest summer excursions landed me in Big Sur, California - en route from San Diego to San Francisco. I could have easily spent a week in this area, but we were only given one day to cover the grounds. But, let me tell you, we made the most of it. When Big Sur comes to mind, most people think of breathtaking views and amazing hikes. I would like to add "leading to food" at the end of the latter. One day in the Big Sur turned into taking in the landscape, sun, and delicious food. Our journey took us from the south in Morro Bay to an end destination of Carmel. Since there is only about 120 miles of road to cover in that stretch, the day actually never felt too rushed.


I'll let you find your own mini-hikes since those are certainly countless, and I am not going to begin to act as if they are my specialty. What you can start mapping out and basing them around, however, are the food destinations. If you only have one day in Big Sur, get ready to spread out your meals across several destinations. It will certainly be worth every stop as each one will make you gasp - and I mean from the views AND food. When heading north, Lucia Lodge is the perfect first stop after a short hike for lunch #1. The rustic lodge is on the west side of the highway with dining set up so that you are literally eating in the middle of a dramatic seaside cliff. The deck is a must as you can actually dine along the edge and face out as if you are sitting at a bar. I recommend sharing one order of the fish and chips served with malt vinegar and tartar sauce. The order is delicious and huge. And, if you order only one, it will be easier to convince yourself to head to lunch destination #2 in just a couple of hours.


After sneaking in another hike (I promise not to judge how far you go), you will be ready for another feeding in the northern end of Big Sur. And Nepenthe is the perfect next stop to truly take in the region's culture. This is the ultimate hippy destination that still draws crowds of all ages and all types. No matter what time of day you arrive, be prepared for a wait (which is never a bad thing when you have already eaten fish and chips and are staring into the ocean). Whether you are sitting on the exterior deck, the steps with cushions, or by the fire pits, your dining experience will be overlooking the Pacific in the middle of the mountains. The burgers are a must - and another great item to order just one of for two people. This will surely complete the lunch portion of your day.


But, feel free to linger, listening to music or checking out local artisans in order to digest, as just up the road, The Ventana Inn and Spa awaits. You can also pretend to take another mini-hike or just call it cocktail hour and head right up. While I will continue to dream of staying there, I did manage to make myself right at home on their back deck with a cheese plate and glass of wine. Even though the inn is located on the east side of the highway, the view makes you feel as if you are at sea. It is truly the ultimate escape. The full restaurant menu offers an excellent selection of California cuisine. Although, in all honesty, I recommend finding any way possible to claim one of their outside couches on the patio, grabbing a newspaper, and not moving for awhile. Before leaving, it took me a minute to remind myself I wasn't staying there. It was the perfect, relaxing end to what most should consider a packed, active day.


Hopefully, you still have some summer vacations lined up - taking you to cooler, dryer spots - allowing a nice balance of exploration and relaxation. And while the additional thirty-five degrees ahead of me sounds daunting, especially in my cozy fifth floor village apartment, I am trying to think of the good news ahead of me. As the city clears out, the chances of getting into some of the hottest spots gets easier. So, get ready for some NYC posts ahead. See you in the hot city!

Brunch - We Take Reservations Two!

I know I've said it before, but I'll say it again. Brunch is a wonderful invention. So yes, I still love brunch. When else in your life is your toughest decision choosing between an egg dish or a syrup one? Since Brunch - We Take Reservations!, my culinary weekends have been countless and it's time to share them with you again. I really do appreciate that most of the tastiest spots still take reservations. I (and I know most women reading this can completely relate) do so much better without those hour-long waits, especially when I have been saving up for a feast. Having to snack before a brunch just to make sure I actually make it to the table certainly takes away from the overall experience.

First stop, Maialino, Danny Meyer's latest venture located at the Gramercy Park Hotel. This is an excellent setting for brunch with a group. And, I was actually very nicely surprised by the casual feel of the dining room. The location in the GPH does not intensify the experience, allowing for a comfortable, leisurely brunch - the best kind in my books. I highly recommend starting with one of their pastries for the table. The toffee glazed brioche is incredible - they had me at toffee. But, it's really the main dishes that will make a regular out of me. Don't let the simplicity of the scrambled eggs with pecorino and black pepper let you overlook it. The eggs are perfectly prepared. I also highly recommend the roast pork sandwich served with fried eggs on ciabatta. The restaurant is known for their excellent preparation of pork dishes and the tender meat in this sandwich met my expectations without hesitation.

For a more bustling scene, stop by Commerce in the west village. While it is tucked away on one of the only cul-de-sacs in the neighborhood, this restaurant can be quite a scene on Sundays, the only day they offer their official brunch menu. The quaint exterior is offset by its wide open dining space. The menu offers some extremely rich brunch options from all kinds of pastry selections to spaghetti carbonara and pork schnitzel, which can often satisfy cravings after a late night out. However, again, it is the egg dishes that I am really drawn to - and on a regular basis. The slow cooked eggs with creamy polenta and mushrooms is an excellent variation on grits and eggs. I also highly recommend the Israeli working man's breakfast for a unique and lighter brunch option. Fluffly scrambled eggs are served in a homemade pita with hummus, parsley, and tomatoes.

My top brunch option at the moment is Tipsy Parson. This restaurant has brunch nailed - both in setting and cuisine. Just be prepared to leave stuffed to the brim as it's truly worth overdoing it on this outing. I know I have already gone on and on about my love for dinner here, but I can honestly say that I feel the very same way about their daytime, weekend service. Here, I love to order from all ends of the spectrum, but always starting with some sort of pastry whether it be the monkey bread, pecan sticky buns, or chive buttermilk biscuit. On top of that, I've got a favorite dish in every category of the menu. For the syrup lovers, the lemon cornmeal pancakes served with blueberry syrup, lemon butter, and powdered sugar are incredible. If you are attempting to go the healthy route (but honestly, let's hope you have blown that with an order of monkey bread), the flax seed, almond, and pumpkin seed granola with Greek yogurt and berry compote is delicious and very satisfying. And, my all-time favorite egg dish (although they really all are wonderful), the scrambled eggs on grilled potato bread with herb ricotta and sauteed wild mushrooms is a must. I am basically drooling as I think about brunch at Tipsy Parson.

And, finally, a new addition to the brunch scene - Recette. I have recently shared a wonderful dinner experience with you all here as well. And while it is now quite difficult to get into this charming space in the evening, the brunch is still undiscovered. And by that I mean, totally empty. If I had not experienced such an excellent dinner at Recette, I may have been nervous about the number of open tables this past weekend. But, to no surprise, the brunch was of the same standard of excellence as my previous meal. As soon as the neighborhood realizes that the doors are open for brunch, it too will be buzzing. The egg dishes are excellent - all served with a simple salad tossed with a light vinaigrette. I recommend the frittata currently offered with spring peas, olives, mozzarella, and basil. The roasted mushroom omelet with parma ham, ricotta, and spinach is perfectly prepared. Be sure to add a side of their light, white toast to chase down any extra egg.


It's amazing that even after giving a shout out to these four hot spots, I could go on and on with more options. Ok, it's no secret that I love to brunch - and yes, it's an even better word as a verb. Both 10 Downing and DBGB also offer a delicious brunch, and both let you call up and reserve ahead of time. but, I think I've gone on for long enough here. So now it's up to make the final call. Maybe this post has just made decision-making around brunch-time just a touch tougher, but hopefully even tastier.

Umi Nom

When looking to start a restaurant, most owners strive to set up shop in the most happening of neighborhoods. It's hard enough to stay open these days, so heading to the well-trafficked areas tends to ease some pressure, allowing them to focus on the actual kitchen. Well, meet Umi Nom's Chef King. He continues to do the opposite and continues to beat the odds. With the opening of Kuma Inn in 2003 on the second floor of a lower east side tenement, he was one of the first to discover this neighborhood that was not all that long ago considered a rough one. Now, one of the hottest areas in the city, the lower east side is home to countless high quality restaurants and bars, with a line continuously streaming out of Kuma Inn.


On the very outskirts of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, Chef King has opened up his latest, risky endeavor - Umi Nom. Similar to the successful Kuma Inn, the menu is a tribute to his upbringing, offering the most delicious Filipino and Thai creations. And similar to Kuma Inn, he has moved into an area that is still off the beaten path. In fact, the closest subway is the mysterious G train - have you ever even ridden on it? Nevertheless, when I visited midweek, the place filled up in no time. The neighborhood has certainly embraced this ethnic treasure and it won't be long before others follow suit. As the draw to Brooklyn continues, there is no doubt that this location will no longer seem so far off the map.


And the minute you enjoy the food, you too will realize the very reason that the G train continues to operate. All dishes are meant to be shared and don't hold back. They are all extremely well-priced and filling all at the same time - a carnivore's heaven. If there is one dish that you must order, it's the sauteed sweet sausage served with sticky rice and a Thai-chili lime sauce. We all know that sausage is my weakness, but honestly, this dish will make any one go weak at the knees. The sausage and the rice are both perfectly crisp on the outside, and soft on the inside. I also highly recommend the ma-banh beef tapa. This is fried, thinly sliced dried beef served with a smoked chili sauce. If that is not enough meat for you, try the grilled marinated pork chop served with fish sauce, plum sugar, lemongrass, and garlic. The charred, thin meat boasts extremely rich Asian flavors. I was also impressed with the umi nom crispy wings tossed in salt and anaheim peppers. This was an excellent Asian preparation for an American classic. You will also find more traditional rice and noodle dishes on the menu - which are all excellent as well. However, those dishes were not quite as original as the unique dishes that I mentioned above. The innovative dishes mixed with the traditional made for an eventful and satisfying evening from start to finish.

Now that summer has arrived, it's the perfect time of year for an adventure. A subway ride or two becomes a little less daunting as the days are longer, warmer, and just somehow more manageable all around. It's time to step out of your comfort zone, hope on that G train, and see what Umi Nom (and that delicious sweet sausage) is all about. Who knows, you may even discover your new favorite up-and-coming neighborhood and barely glimpse back at Manhattan. Based on Chef King's excellent location intuition, he may also be your perfect real estate guide.

Umi Nom
433 Dekalb Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11205
(718) 789-8806
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Recette

I have recently realized that after investing as much energy and thought into restaurants as I do, I often regard them in the same light as I do people. If I didn't have as many amazing friends as I do, this might be a little sad. Thankfully, I am not lacking in that department! While friendships have always been top priority for me, I actually feel like I have had to make room for my relationships with restaurants. There are some that take warming up to, some that I immediately know I can do without, and then there are those others that sweep me right off of my feet. It's an instant connection - where I feel like they get me almost as much as I get them. A recent night at Recette reminded me of this great feeling and thus began my latest West Village friendship.

I have walked by this charming space on Greenwich and 12th street for years. Each time I would pass by, I would stop and stare at the empty tables inside, its mediocre menu outside only verifying my disappointment. And each time, I would secretly hope for the day when a new restaurant would take over - knowing that day was not too far away. The location and adorable space was just too good to go to waste. And with the recent opening of Recette, I may have gotten my wish and more. It is already a challenge to secure a spot at one of the few coveted tables at this New American gem. While the concept is based around small, sharing plates, many of the dishes are quite substantial. All are simple, yet elegant at the same time - an extremely appealing combination. And that rings true for food as well as a friendship. As I said, I am sold!

I highly recommend starting with the salt cod fritters. These are served with a lamb sausage ragu and a curry aioli. The meat ragu is the perfect flavor pairing with the crispy fish, creating a decadent starter. The wild arugula salad is an excellent lighter option. It is served with kumquats, mint, lemon, hazelnuts, and ricotta salata cheese. I can never get enough of arugula especially when it is topped with such unique ingredients. This was one of the dishes where I honestly felt like the chef knew me. It was as if he picked out everything that would suit me and put it into one salad without even having to ask.

For entree-like dishes, I highly recommend the Berkshire pork belly served with rock shrimp, baby turnips, romesco, and sherry caramel. The pork was the perfect texture and consistency. The one dish that fell short was the roasted foie gras served with fig jam. This had the makings of great flavor combinations, but unlike the pork, the texture was off. The highlight of the night, on the other hand, was the halibut served with morel mushrooms, baby artichokes, and asparagus in a saffron beurre blanc. With the use of so many of my favorite spring vegetables, this dish was the epitome of Recette's unique, simple elegance. But, it was the dessert that truly set me over the edge, leading me to declare my new best friend in a place. The ice cream club sandwich is served with cinnamon ice cream, rhubarb gelee, and bacon bark. Cinnamon ice cream AND bacon (chocolate bark shavings). I repeat: cinnamon ice cream and bacon! Most of you probably already know about my love affair with bacon, but most of you probably do not know that my all-time favorite ice cream flavor is cinnamon. Need I say more? Recette, you truly are a great new friend.





Recette
328 W. 12th Street (at Greenwich St.)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 414-3000
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):