Every neighborhood deserves an 'ino. Few would argue that there could never be too many wine bars featuring meats, cheeses, antipasti and paninis in the most initimate of settings. The latest creations from this team have strayed slightly from the cozy feel of both the original greenwich village 'ino and the lower east side 'inoteca with last year's opening in gramercy and most recently with the borderline meatpacking/west village opening of Corsino. While the culinary concept is still the same, these grander atmospheres certainly change up the overall attitude and experience. In all honesty, I will always prefer the intimacy of the original spaces, but I am still pleased to welcome more cheese and wine to my hood. And, with more square feet, my chances of getting in are automatically heightened!
In addition to adding space, Corsino offers a menu that has added more components than its predecessors. With both fish and pasta options, there is less of a focus on small plates. Nevertheless, I recommend that you stick to what they know best as the paninis, crostinis, and antipasti are still the highlights. I recommend the roasted beets with yogurt and pistachio as well as the butternut squash with celery root, pomegranate, and guanciale. It's hard to go wrong with the crostinis, but the cannellini bean with artichoke as well as the sweet onion with walnut are among my favorites. The same is true with the paninis. For those who love spice, I dare you to try the coppa, hot peppers and wild arugula. For a classic taste, I recommend the proscuitto, fontina, and arugula.
I am convinced the larger plates are still works in progress. I enjoyed the flavors of the fussili pasta with sausage and tomato as well as the braised heritage pork Osso Bucco with fennel and onion. Both were well prepared, but were lacking the components that really wow me. I was extremely impressed with the unique flavors of the Heritage brisket meatballs served with tomato and pecorino. These are a must - and are quite a hearty portion. Paired with the delicious side of brussel sprouts tossed with cracked black pepper and parmesan, this dish could have been a full meal. I am already looking forward to going back on a cold winter's night and ordering my very own plate.
Some places get it right from the start. Most take a little time to heat up. Corsino is just starting to get warm. This certainly has not stopped the crowds from pouring in. As I said, the concept is there and the neighborhood is ready. As long as the wine keeps flowing, I have a feeling the best is yet to come.
635 Hudson St.
New York, NY 10014
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):