Corsino

Every neighborhood deserves an 'ino. Few would argue that there could never be too many wine bars featuring meats, cheeses, antipasti and paninis in the most initimate of settings. The latest creations from this team have strayed slightly from the cozy feel of both the original greenwich village 'ino and the lower east side 'inoteca with last year's opening in gramercy and most recently with the borderline meatpacking/west village opening of Corsino. While the culinary concept is still the same, these grander atmospheres certainly change up the overall attitude and experience. In all honesty, I will always prefer the intimacy of the original spaces, but I am still pleased to welcome more cheese and wine to my hood. And, with more square feet, my chances of getting in are automatically heightened!

In addition to adding space, Corsino offers a menu that has added more components than its predecessors. With both fish and pasta options, there is less of a focus on small plates. Nevertheless, I recommend that you stick to what they know best as the paninis, crostinis, and antipasti are still the highlights. I recommend the roasted beets with yogurt and pistachio as well as the butternut squash with celery root, pomegranate, and guanciale. It's hard to go wrong with the crostinis, but the cannellini bean with artichoke as well as the sweet onion with walnut are among my favorites. The same is true with the paninis. For those who love spice, I dare you to try the coppa, hot peppers and wild arugula. For a classic taste, I recommend the proscuitto, fontina, and arugula.

I am convinced the larger plates are still works in progress. I enjoyed the flavors of the fussili pasta with sausage and tomato as well as the braised heritage pork Osso Bucco with fennel and onion. Both were well prepared, but were lacking the components that really wow me. I was extremely impressed with the unique flavors of the Heritage brisket meatballs served with tomato and pecorino. These are a must - and are quite a hearty portion. Paired with the delicious side of brussel sprouts tossed with cracked black pepper and parmesan, this dish could have been a full meal. I am already looking forward to going back on a cold winter's night and ordering my very own plate.

Some places get it right from the start. Most take a little time to heat up. Corsino is just starting to get warm. This certainly has not stopped the crowds from pouring in. As I said, the concept is there and the neighborhood is ready. As long as the wine keeps flowing, I have a feeling the best is yet to come.



Corsino
635 Hudson St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 242-3093
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Irving Mill

It's hard to believe Thanksgiving hasn't happened yet. With the number of Christmas commercials dominating the television and lights decorating the streets, it often feels like it's mid December. Although, I'm not really sure why each year I act surprised by the ridiculously early Christmas cheer. This has been going on for years - I just think we all get a kick out of making a big deal of the immediate post Halloween transition. This is the time of year when generic weather complaints in elevators can be replaced by commentary on how the holidays have crept up on us once again.


This is all fine by me - as long as Thanksgiving still has its prominent place on the calendar. No one can argue with the fact that Thanksgiving equals family, thanks, and American food at its best. And this year I'm feeling particularly thankful and ready to celebrate such an American holiday. After a recent trip to Irving Mill, it actually felt like the month of November. This seasonal American restaurant (named after one of the greatest American authors) could pay a tribute to the upcoming holiday both in the comfort of its setting and in the preparation of its cuisine. Whether in the main dining room or up front in the bar tap room, this is a great spot to enjoy with a large group. And, if your group is large enough, I recommend the large round stone table bringing together these two sections. It's a great way to appear VIP, but more importantly, it can actually hold more food in the center - ideal for sharing.


We started the meal sharing several small plates. These included charred wax bean bruschetta with ricotta as well as the salt and pepper pork ribs. Both were great, but the ribs were out of this world, falling right off the bone and seasoned with the perfect amount of heat. If that wasn't enough, there was an actual Sausage section on the menu - the finest of American cuisine! I should have known from the start that it was going to be a great night. We sampled the lamb-olive sausage and the rabbit-ratatouille sausage, both served with grilled country bread and mustard. I was really drawn to the preparation of the rabbit. The mains are either pastas, meat or fish. I recommend the eggplant agnolotti, mini ravioli stuffed with ricotta, tomato confit and chili flakes as well as the roasted red snapper with autumn vegetables - a great way to eat fish in the "off season." But, in all honesty, it was the good old American Irving Mill burger with cheddar and fries that truly won me over that evening. It was one of the more simple, yet juicy and full of flavor burgers I have had in awhile.

Irving Mill's menu at certain moments definitely hints towards French and Italian inspiration. But, that is really what New American cuisine is all about - and basically what America is all about. However, it was the ribs and the burger, dishes that over the years have come to define true American cuisine, that were in a league of their own at Irving Mill. Sometimes, it's the most basic and most comforting things that win us over - and that is what Thanksgiving is really all about. Have a happy one!!




Irving Mill
116 East 16th St.
New York, NY 10003
(212) 254-1600
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Momofuku Ssam Bar

It's time I got on board with the Momofuku empire. I've been a big fan of Noodle Bar for the past few years, but I am embarrassed to say I haven't been able to keep up with David Chang's east village dynasty. And now, as he is on the brink of bursting out of his familiar hood to open Momofuku Ma Peche at the Chambers hotel in midtown, I figure I better pick up the slack before it is too late. While I am still waiting for that lucky person to treat me to a night at Ko, I finally decided to head over to Ssam Bar.

Before I go any further, I want to clear up a common misconception that I and most others hold about the Momofukus. I had assumed that all of the restaurants must be Asian inspired - mostly due to my desire to continuously order the ramen from Noodle Bar. However, Ssam Bar quickly taught me that the Momofukus are all inspired by American cuisine. Of course this is an extremely broad term, but the point is that the menu is influenced by nearly all ethnicities. This even rings true at Noodle Bar as fried chicken is one of the featured dishes- I just need to learn to shift my one-tracked mindset there (and the name doesn't help either)!


The menu at Ssam Bar is broken up into raw bar options, small dishes, country ham, local/seasonal plates, and main courses covering the categories of meat, fish, and offal. This is one of the most adventuresome menus I have come across and as someone constantly looking for the strangest, yet most flavorful dishes, I was given a run for my money. The fact that there is even an offal section may turn many people off - and for those of you not familiar with the term, it basically is what it sounds like. I'll leave it at that since my hope is that you all can appreciate the role culinary expertise plays in innovative cooking. David Chang demonstrates that he can master any edible item from the most basic to the most complex.


We started the meal with an excellent assortment of seasonal pickles which included mushrooms, carrots, bok choy, corn, cauliflower, and kimchi. This is basically the extent of greenery on the menu and so we got our fix early on. If you are still craving a truly Asian inspired dish, I recommend the steamed pork buns prepared with pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers and scallions. The meat is perfectly seasoned and tender. The soft boiled egg with summer beans, bacon, and pumpernickel was as close to a salad as they offer - and this was actually one of my favorite dishes. But, the winning dish came from none other than the offal section. The crispy pig's head was so full of flavor and perfectly paired with cashew and pineapple kimchi slaw. I appreciated the presentation of the dish - resembling nothing more than simple fried cakes. The spicy pork sausage and rice cakes served with Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots is both hearty and full of fire. While the meats are definitely a feature of Ssam Bar, you should not miss out on the fish. We sampled a delicious grilled simple preparation of hamachi, one of their specials that evening.

I had every intention of making serious headway in the Momofuku world that night since Milk Bar is directly next door to Ssam Bar. However, with a menu where I was debating between ordering pig's head, country ham, and a bbq rib sandwich, I decided to order more and resign to the savory dishes. And, after peering in the window at Milk Bar, I realized I could soon make a whole meal even out of their sweets menu. Based on the crowds lined up inside and outside, I have no doubt that David Chang's big move uptown can only be a good thing. And he has given me every reason to continue to keep up with him and his adventures.


Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Avenue (@ 13th st.)
New York, NY 10003
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Sorella

Sorella makes me happy. Sure, it's pretty hard for good Italian food to do anything but. However, the fact that two women in their 20s opened this spot after a trip to Northern Italy is truly an inspiration. This is exactly the kind of place that I'd love to call my own - the kind of place perfect for good friends and family to gather. I'm not saying I've ever really wanted to open a restaurant. In fact, I can easily say I much prefer being on the receiving end. But, I can still dream of supporting a close friend in following their dreams and then claiming at least part of their grounds as my own- every restaurant needs a good appetite! Yes, that would be the ideal. If only it were my friends who had gone to Italy and come home to set up Sorella.

The varied layout in Sorella is excellent for nearly any social gathering imaginable. As you walk into the restaurant, most of the front room is occupied by the bar - excellent for glasses of wine or a full meal, and definitely ideal for both. Just a few steps towards the back, there is a large communal table with stools - intended for large groups, but open to friendly diners. The back room of the restaurant, while still elegant, is more laid back with table dining in an indoor garden-like setting. Regardless of where you end up, the food will keep you happy. Inspired by the Piedmont region in the northwest, the menu focuses on wine and small plates. While there are 3 special entrees offered each night, the restaurant's actual intentions are to inspire both sharing and wine consumption. And this place has no problem doing so.


Whether you are seated at the bar or at a table, a white paper cone full of fresh baked bread sticks will accompany you from the start of your experience. These are delicate, thin and topped with just the right amount of salt. If you weren't already planning to eat there, these will surely whet the appetite. While everything we ordered was offered as small plates, the sizes are actually quite generous. I recommend the arugula, prosciutto, black fig and Parmesan salad. We then shared the semolina fritte which is a wheat product similar to polenta. This side is a must. It's not quite as dense as fried polenta and there is an excellent sweet flavor in this dish. My favorite dish was the tajarin - a traditional egg pasta from the Piedmont region - served with lamb ragu, black pepper ricotta, pistachios, and mint - a truly outstanding flavor combination driven by the pepper. I was less impressed with the gnocchi prepared with a fresca cream sauce, brown butter pears and chives. These were mini and not quite as soft as I would have liked - almost resembling a sort of Israeli cous-cous. But, the grilled quail served with Benton's country bacon, black rice, apple, cranberry and arugula brought us right back to the great food and the good life that defines the Piedmont region.

And so, when it came time for dessert, I realized I'm not the only one who'd like to call this place their own. Whoever Molly may be, she has made her way onto the menu and her presence is most certainly known. Molly's birthday cake is a delicious nougat cake with chocolate fudge filling and frosting - and topped with a lit candle, of course. No matter the date, it's the perfect excuse to make a wish and I was more than happy to pose as Molly for the night. There is just no denying that Sorella was designed as a tribute to Piedmont and to great friendships. Here's to becoming a Molly and hoping her wishes come true!



Sorella
95 Allen St.
New York, NY 10002
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tipsy Parson

Wow. I am proud to be a Southerner. To be a part of the inspiration behind a restaurant like the Tipsy Parson makes me want to amp up my lacking Southern accent and start sipping mint juleps on a regular basis. Hurry to Chelsea - I fear this one has already been discovered. By their second night of dinner service last week, the chefs had already nailed it. Sure, there were a few service glitches that come with the opening of any restaurant, but the setting, the energy, and the food were outstanding. And after learning that these are the folks behind one of my lower east side favorites, the Little Giant, I should not have been surprised. It was one of those nights when it didn't take long for me to realize I had really stumbled upon something great - and looking around, we weren't alone. And, in case you were already thinking it, I'll just confirm any suspicions that The Hungry Roach, one again, has had a face lift. Lucky for me and my viewers, I was able to share and (he was able to) truly capture the entire experience with my good friend Brian of The Blue Hour.


After our meal on Thursday, I could have easily returned for dinner on Friday, brunch on Saturday, or even just dessert on Sunday - and I will most likely do so this weekend. The menu is scattered with all of my favorites - from biscuits and grits to slow roasting pork and crispy kale. The long marble bar that stretches across the entire front room of the restaurant is a great place to enjoy a few snacks and oysters or even a full meal. As we waited for our table, I eyed the country ham on-the-bone and homemade spreads used as condiments for the various bar snacks. We enjoyed homemade cheese straws and figs stuffed with watercress wrapped in maple glazed bacon. I have sampled and made many variations of stuffed figs, but the quality of the bacon and the use of watercress as stuffing were impressive.


I am still in awe over their homemade herb rolls that arrive at the start of the meal as the bread basket. The chefs actually understand what a roll is all about. Almost all rolls I have come across north of the Mason Dixon Line have been pretty frightening. But, when they are good, there is no denying it. At the Tipsy Parson, these are so good they should actually be right on the menu next to the biscuits. I just wish I had saved even a morsel of mine to soak up the bottom of my bowl of roasted parsnip soup with toasted celery and grapes. This excellent autumn starter had the perfect thick consistency, creating an extremely hearty and flavorful soup. I also highly recommend the sauteed crispy kale salad with mushrooms and cornbread croutons. This dish was perfectly balanced by the ingredients and with nearly every bite, I was able to enjoy the light flavoring of the cornbread croutons. One look at the main courses, and there was no resisting the braised pork shank with stoneground grits, apple butter glaze, cracklins, and roasted apples & prunes. The meat fell off the enormous bone and was full of all of the right fall flavors.

While I loved every morsel I put in my mouth, I did spend much of the night eying the other dishes scattered across neighbors' tables. It was hard to have food envy since our dishes were so good, but rather, I was just wishing there was more time and room in my stomach to try more. The whiffs of the homemade apple pie for two (a must order at the start of the meal) and the visions of the signature Tipsy Parson boozy dessert did make it quite clear of all that I was missing out on. However, in my books, no matter what dessert you do order or don't, no Southern meal is complete without caramel. When it's time to pay the check, you will be thanked with deliciously homemade caramels topped with salt. How refreshing. Tipsy Parson and Southern hospitality win again.



Tipsy Parson
156 Ninth Avenue (between 19th and 20th)
New York, NY 10011
212-620-4545

website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):