Showing posts with label California. Show all posts
Showing posts with label California. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

A Day in Big Sur


Hi. I'm here! Well, mostly - here meaning, in California. Apologies to all as this has probably been the longest stretch I've had on The Hungry Roach without sharing my adventures with you. Summer is one of those bittersweet times in New York City. It's the time of year that the city simply clears out as most offices embrace some sort of summer hours policy or, if not, the heat is enough to drive you right out. So, here I sit - in cool, southern California, bracing for tonight's red-eye only to drop me off right in the middle of a typical, New York City summer heatwave. But, in all honesty, that's the fun of living in New York. The city keeps you on your toes, so much so that you just might be forced to get out and explore. And this summer, I have definitely taken advantage of escaping the heat.


One of my latest summer excursions landed me in Big Sur, California - en route from San Diego to San Francisco. I could have easily spent a week in this area, but we were only given one day to cover the grounds. But, let me tell you, we made the most of it. When Big Sur comes to mind, most people think of breathtaking views and amazing hikes. I would like to add "leading to food" at the end of the latter. One day in the Big Sur turned into taking in the landscape, sun, and delicious food. Our journey took us from the south in Morro Bay to an end destination of Carmel. Since there is only about 120 miles of road to cover in that stretch, the day actually never felt too rushed.


I'll let you find your own mini-hikes since those are certainly countless, and I am not going to begin to act as if they are my specialty. What you can start mapping out and basing them around, however, are the food destinations. If you only have one day in Big Sur, get ready to spread out your meals across several destinations. It will certainly be worth every stop as each one will make you gasp - and I mean from the views AND food. When heading north, Lucia Lodge is the perfect first stop after a short hike for lunch #1. The rustic lodge is on the west side of the highway with dining set up so that you are literally eating in the middle of a dramatic seaside cliff. The deck is a must as you can actually dine along the edge and face out as if you are sitting at a bar. I recommend sharing one order of the fish and chips served with malt vinegar and tartar sauce. The order is delicious and huge. And, if you order only one, it will be easier to convince yourself to head to lunch destination #2 in just a couple of hours.


After sneaking in another hike (I promise not to judge how far you go), you will be ready for another feeding in the northern end of Big Sur. And Nepenthe is the perfect next stop to truly take in the region's culture. This is the ultimate hippy destination that still draws crowds of all ages and all types. No matter what time of day you arrive, be prepared for a wait (which is never a bad thing when you have already eaten fish and chips and are staring into the ocean). Whether you are sitting on the exterior deck, the steps with cushions, or by the fire pits, your dining experience will be overlooking the Pacific in the middle of the mountains. The burgers are a must - and another great item to order just one of for two people. This will surely complete the lunch portion of your day.


But, feel free to linger, listening to music or checking out local artisans in order to digest, as just up the road, The Ventana Inn and Spa awaits. You can also pretend to take another mini-hike or just call it cocktail hour and head right up. While I will continue to dream of staying there, I did manage to make myself right at home on their back deck with a cheese plate and glass of wine. Even though the inn is located on the east side of the highway, the view makes you feel as if you are at sea. It is truly the ultimate escape. The full restaurant menu offers an excellent selection of California cuisine. Although, in all honesty, I recommend finding any way possible to claim one of their outside couches on the patio, grabbing a newspaper, and not moving for awhile. Before leaving, it took me a minute to remind myself I wasn't staying there. It was the perfect, relaxing end to what most should consider a packed, active day.


Hopefully, you still have some summer vacations lined up - taking you to cooler, dryer spots - allowing a nice balance of exploration and relaxation. And while the additional thirty-five degrees ahead of me sounds daunting, especially in my cozy fifth floor village apartment, I am trying to think of the good news ahead of me. As the city clears out, the chances of getting into some of the hottest spots gets easier. So, get ready for some NYC posts ahead. See you in the hot city!

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Havens of Happiness: Part 2 - San Diego

San Diego. The newest addition to my happy places. I have been traveling to southern California my entire life, but had never found a chance to venture too far south of LA-LA Land. At least once a year, I’ve been able to visit my western relatives - loving the change of scenery and change of pace. Never shy to remind me of the guaranteed blue skies every day and both mountains and beach in such close proximity, my family members are constantly asking me why I would ever live anywhere else. They do have a great point (especially post June 2009 on the rainy east coast). But, after seeing San Diego, it’s time I ask them why they haven’t moved even further south.


Now I could probably go on and on about what an amazing place San Diego is, but I know it’s the food that you are really interested in. And, yes, the food is, without question, one of the area’s highlights. How could my newest happy place not have fed me well? What I loved most about the dining in San Diego was the variety of authentic cuisine - and authentic cuisine done just right. Whether I was eating at Japanese, Vietnamese, or Mexican restaurants, it felt like the real deal, with no frills or fusion - a rarity for city dining. Another perk is being able to visit so many of the surrounding neighborhoods by car and not being stuck in hours of freeway traffic. In just a few trips to San Diego, I already feel like I’ve covered the grounds - from the beaches to the hills - and dined my way through them too.


First stop, Carlsbad - The Village Kitchen & Pie Shoppe, just off the highway in an unassuming location. To live in and/or visit the San Diego area without making a trip up here would be a sin - especially if you love brunch as much as I do. As I am never shy to mention, brunch is not only one of my favorite meals, but also one of my favorite things to do in NYC. And it’s always such a comfort to find that this exists outside of New York. In fact, I have been trying to think of a place comparable to the Pie Shoppe in NYC and am actually at a loss. This place is a true classic. A cross between a diner and a good old, southern-style family restaurant, the food is the best of both. From the simplest egg dishes to scrambles and omelets, you cannot go wrong - especially if you order up the biscuits and sausage patties. I’m now realizing southern cuisine should definitely include the west coast too - since the patties at the Pie Shoppe are as good as it gets back home. From the looks of the french toast, the cinnamon rolls, and the pies, I actually wish I could take this place home with me.


Next stop, Oceanside - Mr. Pho, a total dive. Don’t let its strip-mall location keep you away! I knew this place was a winner the minute I stepped inside and realized I was in the minority. I was actually surprised that there was an English menu. While I immediately recognized my Vietnamese favorites, the menu was endless - offering so many more variations of pho, vermicelli, and other specialties than I had ever imagined. We started with the spring rolls. I loved wrapping them in fresh mint leaves and dipping them in the light, sweet sauce on the table. The chicken pho was one of the most comforting soups I have ever tasted. I have never seen a bigger, cheaper bowl of soup that, at the same time, was absolutely fresh and delicious. The vermicelli with roasted pork is another great option - and as authentic as they come. All dishes are accompanied with the traditional Vietnamese sides - fresh vegetables, mint, limes, and sauces that you are free to add according to your liking.


Final stop, Old Town, San Diego - the Coyote Cafe. Once you hit up this neighborhood, you may actually think you have driven far enough south and ended up in Mexico. Could this be San Diego’s Little Mexico? No matter the direction you turn, there will be a Mexican restaurant or bar surrounding you. While at first glance it may be a challenge to pick out the hits from the misses in this festive area, I’ll help you out by directing you towards Cafe Coyote. You can and should sit outside either downstairs or on the upstairs deck and enjoy all that San Diego has to offer - warm evenings and authentic food, and just a step away from the border. The homemade chips and salsa waiting for us as we sat down reinforced our close proximity. Everything from the tostadas to the shrimp tacos to chicken enchiladas screamed both fresh and Mexico. It was the perfect ending to a day spent diving into the Pacific, driving from one beautiful beach to the next.

In all honesty, I cannot believe it has taken me more than 28 years to discover this place. But, I guess better late than never! And, it’s nice to know that there is always room for new happy places in our lives. I’ll keep enjoying the old, but am thrilled to welcome the new. And, the best part of happy places is that there is always a return-date. See you soon, San Diego!



Village Kitchen & Pie Shoppe
950 Tamarack Ave
Carlsbad, CA 92008
(760) 729-6414




Mr. Pho
4750 Oceanside Blvd # 821
Oceanside, CA 920
56
(760) 940-1306





Cafe Coyote
2461 San Diego Avenue
San Diego, CA 92110
(619) 291-4695
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