Marea

Even though ABC Kitchen was where I spent my last Friday night as a New Yorker, I still had about 5 more nights before officially moving out. And after my incredible experience based off of the newest James Beard recognition, I decided there was still enough time to make it to the previous year's winner of that very award. Marea had too been on my list for quite some time, but more for reasons of cost than availability had I not been able to stop by. Well, with just a few nights left as New Yorker, issues of cost and the need to save such restaurants for a special occasion easily go by the wayside. And so, my last Tuesday night in New York with my family was more than enough of a reason to finally dine out at Marea.


Marea is located on Central Park South and the interior certainly lives up to its address. As you walk in, you are greeted by a swanky bar on the left - one that if I had ever worked in midtown, I would have hoped I could have visited for special occasion drinks. To the right you will find the elegant dining room which is certainly more formal than most restaurants I frequent, however, it was still extremely welcoming and warm. Every now and then, I really love that feeling of walking into a place where I know I would never stop by every day - the kind of place where I need to dress up, where an amuse bouche or two are guaranteed, and where chargers are waiting for me on the table. The minute we sat down at our table, I knew I was in great hands for the night ahead.


Marea's Italian menu brings together two of my favorite culinary treats - fresh seafood and homemade pasta. However, be prepared to be slightly overwhelmed by this excellent combination as the options available are nearly endless. We didn't even touch the crudo (sliced raw fish and shellfish) section of the menu which takes up almost a full page - and all of those dishes were extremely enticing. The problem was that the antipasti were just too appealing to pass up as we all opted for those for our starters. The special of the evening was a delicately prepared soft shell crab served over radicchio, immediately capturing the attention of several members of our table who eventually finished every morsel on their plates. My weakness has always been lobster and more recently it has been burrata. I can hardly ever ignore this glorious cheese on a menu (and even now in the supermarkets). So you can imagine how quickly I jumped at the Nova Scotia lobster starter prepared with burrata, eggplant, mushrooms, and basil. What could have been an overwhelmingly rich dish was perfectly prepared so that each and every ingredient had a place on the plate. And while it screamed richness on paper, even upon clearing my plate, I was ready to take on my next course.

We all again opted from the same next section of the menu completely ignoring the meat and fish options. But, with the pasta, we all seemed to get the best of both worlds - some sort of homemade pasta topped with some sort of fresh fish. Every one was so pleased with their own dish that we barely felt the need to share or even try one another's. While I was impartial to my spaghetti with seppia, squid ink, and pecorino, I also highly recommend the orecchiette with ruby red shrimp chilies and rosemary. Had I not already started with incredible lobster, I would have immediately fallen for the tagliatelle with Nova Scotia lobster, tarragon, and coral. A heavier and extremely flavorful dish is the fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow which was actually perfect on the oddly cold May evening that we were there.

Even though I was visiting Marea for what I had deemed as a special occasion, I cannot imagine dining there and not feeling like it was a special occasion. It's cuisine, setting, and service truly make it a special place. And so it's rare that I see three large desserts end up on my table after a meal. That alone signals something special. We were all so intrigued by so many of the dishes that we decided to go all out - and we had absolutely no regrets. Desserts at Marea are a must - and by desserts I mean multiple ones. We ordered the white chocolate honey mousse served with pine nut, grapefruit gelato topped with basil as well as the hazelnut torte topped with dark chocolate and lemon gelato topped with mint, and finally the fried doughnut holes with lemon cream and prickly pear sorbet. Again, it was nearly impossible to decide which was best. And if that's your biggest problem, trying to decide which dish was best throughout the night, you know you have found a special spot.


Marea
240 Central Park South
New York, New York 10019
(212) 582-5100
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Brooklyn Fare

Apparently, I am all about the set menus these days. They are, of course, not an every night affair, but why can’t they be an every once in awhile affair? The amount of food that you are served, and if you are in the right place, the level of excellence that you witness, is certainly worth the price. Who doesn’t loved being served a chef's very best selection? And if you are ever given the opportunity to go or can plan far enough in advance to book a piece of its counter, add Brooklyn Fare to your culinary experiences.

When Chef Cesar originally opened this unique spot, it was the ultimate chef’s table - a kitchen with a basic table set in a simple space next door to the Brooklyn Fare grocery store in the heart of downtown Brooklyn. He would serve a fixed menu each night to the 12 lucky guests that had already recognized the talent of this rising star. Now, two Michelin stars later, Chef Cesar continues to produce the same, exquisite culinary creations, but in a much more established, systemized setting for 18 with up to three seatings a night - and with a higher price of $120 per person. There is still the BYO and serve yourself policy and just one menu each night that is really only set no more than an hour or so before the first seating. The daily menu is determined through experimentation based on the market’s freshest produce and catches.

Although the chef hails from Mexico, most of the menu is Asian inspired. The evening starts with an assortment of 10-12 small dishes that are not listed on the menu. Every one is seated at the arced counter that faces the kitchen and is served at the same time once dishes are plated and presented on display. Not only is every course unique in flavor combinations and ingredients, but each one was served in what seemed to be a dish designed perfectly for it. I apologize in advance for not being able to snap photographs of these mouthwatering creations, but photographs are no longer permitted in this intimate setting (explicitly noted in the menu).


If you are sushi lover, you will love this place as the majority of dishes were seafood - and often raw. Don’t let the idea of 10-12 small dishes prior to the actual menu scare you off as these were truly bite size or even finger food - and not even listed in the menu. On the night we were there, the seafood bites included a wild salmon ceviche, torro with ginger, oyster with grapefruit, king crab, yellowtail with jalapeno, sardine with thinly sliced fried potatoes, and smoked octopus with hearts of palm. Other highlights were a duck croquettes and a shot of pumpkin and parmesan soup. It was over an hour into the evening before anything from the set menu arrived in front of us, but at Brooklyn Fare, there is really no concept of time. Somehow you are never waiting for a dish, yet at the same time, you never feel rushed. While the main dishes did arrive on larger plates, the portions were nicely suited for the culinary feast we were in the midst of enjoying. Everything was so beautifully plated on usually just one part of the dish, it often resembled a piece of art. The highlights of the main dishes were scallops with shrimp risotto and pea shoots, pumpkin ravioli with truffles and porcinis, monkfish with foie gras and cabbage, and guinea hen with roasted brussel sprouts. Dessert was extremely understated with sorbet and petit fours - and that was fine by me as the finale to the sublime feast of nearly 20 dishes.

When food is coming at you with that level of grace and expertise, it is best to just take it all in and enjoy the moment you are in. While I can only begin to tell you about this experience, it is truly a personal one that I hope any one with food curiosities can take part in at some point. At first I was a little disappointed that no photographs were allowed. But, by the end, I realized no pictures could possibly do the meal justice and I am glad my amateur photography skills didn’t need to confirm that for all of you.

And for those of you who are all about the Roach Rating - you are seeing correctly. Brooklyn Fare earned all five! I admit that I did once declare that when I came across anything Five Roachworthy, my work was done. I take that back! I am already wondering, who will be the next?





Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn Street
New York, NY 11217
(718) 243-0050
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Del Posto

Like any heartfelt hiatus, mine lasted a little longer than expected. After all, it wouldn’t really have been a proper break had I not left you on your toes wondering when I would return. Wouldn’t it be terrible if on my return you were thinking, back already? Hopefully you are as thrilled as I am right now. In all honesty, I have been eager to write basically since the day I stopped. And now I’m sitting here giddy in the Atlanta airport as I tap away on the computer. Writing just feels good. And writing about restaurants - now that’s another story!

As promised, my time away from the computer was spent experiencing food and life to the fullest. So where do I even begin? I figure the best way to get back in is with a true bang. While I love nothing more than discovering hidden neighborhood gems, there is no denying how much I love and can appreciate the outwardly sparkling gems - the talked about restaurants that are actually worth your time, money, and indulgence. In my experience this is almost always my take on a Mario Batali restaurant. The man’s got talent. And Del Posto is no exception.


Located in a sort of no-man’s land between meatpacking and Chelsea, this large Italian restaurant opened nearly five years ago. Given it’s large size, ambiguous location, and simply the state of our economy, many may have assumed this would have been a short-lived venture. Del Posto has proven to be anything but. The difficulty in securing a reservation on even a Monday night is a definite indicator that its popularity is in fact continuously increasing. Since this was my first dining experience at Del Posto, I cannot personally attest to its improvement over time. But, I can say that it is certainly currently at a level of excellence that very few could ever attain and then maintain in such a demanding environment.


The setting alone is an experience. With the combination of live piano music as well as exposed balconies on the second floor, I felt as though I was transported to a previous era. It was truly romantic! So much so that I even noted and loved each delicate plate that the dishes were served on. Although, I won’t deny that my warm emotions may have also been influenced by the three delicious amuse-bouches that arrived at our table at the start of the meal. Without much surprise, the rest of the meal met up to this excellent beginning. Del Posto’s menu - both wine and cuisine - is an adventure. And, of course, with selections so inspiring, it was no question that we would order the five course tasting menu consisting of an appetizer, two shared primi dishes, one secondi, and dessert - all of which you have free reign to choose from any section of the menu. Since these mollusks are so rarely found on a menu, we started with the abalone carpaccio served with grilled asparagus and charred scallions. The carne cruda with truffled salsa, parmigiano-reggiano and shaved porcini mushrooms was the perfect complement to the sea snails. Both were light, yet full of flavor.

For the primi, we shared the spaghetti with dungeness crab, sliced jalapenos, and minced scallion and the ricotta pansotti with wild asparagus and black truffles. Both dishes were split into half portions, giving us a great sampling, but allowing room for much more. While both were excellent and homemade, my favorite was the pansotti which resembled a combination of mini tortellini and ravioli which immediately melted in my mouth. I was actually most surprised that the secondi portion of the meal ended up being my very favorite, especially since I was so pleased with how the meal started out. We ordered the seared duck breast with Apician spices, grilled apricots, and salt baked endive and the young lamb with lemon yogurt, chick peas and swiss chard ragu. There was a serious debate about which dish was better and basically ended with two completely cleared plates. Somehow, there was room still for dessert - the butterscotch semifreddo and the polenta cake baked in butter served with sage ice cream and caramelized sweet potato. The sweet and savory combination in the polenta dessert was incredible, but I was most impressed with the herbal ice cream which I so quickly devoured. Of course, no fancy meal is complete without additional treats from the chef and at Del Posto, this was no exception. There was not only one but TWO complimentary desserts to round out the meal. It's a wonder I didn't feel round myself by the end of the evening!


The night was one for the books. And I’m not the only one who seems to thinks so. I also know that any one reading this must have a list of restaurants set aside to try only on special occasions. Well, Del Posto should be at the top of yours. But, not to worry, I will soon bring you all back to reality. The Hungry Roach is back - and before long my latest neighborhood gem will be broadcast your way.





Del Posto
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 497-8090
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Nobu

I have wanted to go to Nobu since the moment I moved to New York. It's a culinary institution - one that I knew I'd get to one day, but never quite knew when. When I would tell fellow New Yorkers or even tourists that I had never been, they often couldn't believe it. But, in a town with endless dining options, it became all to easy to end up at restaurants just a touch easier to get into and just a touch more affordable. And I was never too concerned that Nobu had yet to be checked off my master list as I knew my big night there would happen one of these days.


I have felt the very same way about Las Vegas - shocking people that I had never been, all the while knowing there would be plenty of reasons to finally get there sooner or later. And so this past weekend turned into a weekend of firsts for me. There was the perfect excuse that finally took me to Vegas - and isn't a first time in Vegas the perfect excuse for a first trip to Nobu? I wasn't even worried about the build up of either spot as the great wait had almost lowered my expectations. These are two places that I knew weren't going anywhere or changing too drastically, but I am so glad that day finally arrived. A first time Vegas-Nobu duo guarantees a memorable outing.

Located in the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, Nobu is certainly in the heart of the Vegas scene, despite its situation off of the Strip. This is a night out on the town experience both in setting and dining, as to be expected in Vegas. There are a few variations on the menu from the original Nobu, but we decided to go with their signature dishes that I had long awaited - sampling from nearly all areas of the menu. From the cold dish section of the menu, I highly recommend the yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno. We rolled up each piece of raw fish with a slice of crunchy jalapeno and a touch of cilantro, creating an excellent blend of textures and flavors. From the hot dish section, we went with the rock shrimp tempura topped with a creamy spicy sauce and the black cod miso. The rock shrimp were nearly addictive as I popped one after another in my mouth. However, it was the black cod dish that truly blew me away. Without hesitation, I fell for this acclaimed dish. In Vegas, they cut the rich flavors of the marinade as they serve the cod in lettuce cups topped with phyllo shavings. I have never felt so taken by flavor and texture combinations as I did during the entire meal. And to sample from nearly all sections of the dinner menu, we ordered a more traditional sushi dish, the spicy scallop roll. Even the most basic of dishes turned out to be far superior at Nobu as we found ourselves getting a second round of this roll.

With such perfection in each course, we found it impossible to pass up dessert. We ordered the hazelnut semi-freddo with caramelized bananas and peanut butter ice cream topped with caramel sauce, and the night continued to soar. At Nobu, it is truly about the entire experience. The waiters are eager to guide you through the night whether it is in recommending a dish or in spacing out the meal so that you are never rushed, yet never waiting. With such care and quality in the air, a first trip to Nobu is quite an occasion. And, last weekend was indeed the perfect occasion. If you are looking for a reason to make your first trip to Nobu, perhaps to celebrate a birthday or a promotion or even the night before a proposal, this is the place for you. Once you make your first trip, you will soon realize that the only real excuse you need to go is treating yourself right - and that is something we all should do more often!



Nobu
4455 Paradise Road
Las Vegas, NV 89169-6574
(702) 693-5090
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Betel

It's pretty fascinating to ponder what drives "a scene" in New York. When a well-known, favorite chef decides to open a new outpost with a slightly different concept, there is most certainly a buzz in the air. As soon as a chef or owner breaks away from a thriving restaurant to start his or her own venture, New Yorkers are ready to pounce. Or even when a favorite restaurant closes down, diners eagerly anticipate what will open up in the coveted space. But, what I find most fascinating is the power of the unmarked door. Whether or not a restaurant falls into any of the previously mentioned categories, an unmarked door will automatically attract a crowd. Throw a prime West Village location in there and you've got yourself a scene.


In all honesty, I'm usually turned off by places that go out of their way to actually create a scene - typically the reason doors go unmarked. And when I read that Betel, the new upscale Thai restaurant in the West Village, had fallen prey to the unmarked door, I was a little disappointed. Nevertheless, scenes will always spark my curiosity - especially when they are so close to home - and I at least wanted to be the one to judge. Now, the big question is - is an unmarked door still an unmarked door when you walk by it and the man in front of it asks if you are looking for Betel? This inviting gesture immediately set Betel in an unmarked door category of it's own. It's amazing how far manners will take you. I like to think that Betel, instead of trying to be exclusive, is actually trying to be more personal - have a human welcome you, rather than a heartless sign.


There is still no denying that Betel is a scene right now so just be prepared for it. But, I just want to remind you that is not always a bad thing. I will take a welcoming scene any day over places that deny you even when calling exactly one month in advance at 9:01 am (Minetta Tavern...ahem). There is no secret code or phone line to make it through these unmarked doors. If you get there before or even during the rush as we were lucky enough to, you may even be seated right away. If not, you may have to wait a bit, but only while enjoying a fancy cocktail at their very comfortable, large bar. The communal table that takes up the middle of the restaurant is yet another gesture that encourages mixing and mingling so don't be shy if you end up dining with a few strangers. Even though this place is all about the sharing, the space is all that you will have to share with them.

With such a buzz in the air, there was certainly pressure for the food to meet my immediately raised expectations. The chef's use of exotic Southeast Asian ingredients kept the bar high. I recommend starting with the betel leaves, their signature appetizer. These are fresh, light, and crisp - and served one to an order. The smoked sea trout option prepared with trout, roe, shrimp, galangal and chili was a great combination of flavors and had a nice kick to it. I also recommend the pork and scallop cilantro dumplings with chili-garlic dipping oil as well as the salt and pepper cuttlefish with Vietnamese dipping sauce which can be served as a starter or a main. Order up a side of the broccolini with oyster sauce and ginger and you will be amazed by how something so green can be so full of flavor. While the stir fried tuna with chili jam, snake bean, cashew nut, Chinese broccoli, and Thai basil was underwhelming compared to the rest of the dishes we ordered, this was still a cut above any seafood order in a standard Thai restaurant. Both the Wagyu beef brisket and farmed chicken were delicious examples of the chef's ability to excel in both Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. The Vietnamese brisket is braised and prepared with long leaf cilantro, Vietnamese mint, and chili lime dressing. And the chicken is a southern curry with butternut squash, fried shallots, and Thai basil. Both dishes pop with the right amount of flavor and spice - and a nice balance of meat and vegetables.



While the crowds are not dying down any time soon at Betel, a meal here is still very probable. This really is the best kind of scene - one where you can enjoy exotic cocktails, where you can feast on delicious cuisine, and where you can get the door pointed out, opened, and even held for you. And when the crowds do start to die down, the excellent setting and food will still be right there with you.


Betel
51 Grove St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 352-0460
website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):