ABC Kitchen

As much as I love restaurant ratings and awards, I should admit that they make me more nervous than anything else. They actually legitimize the fear that some of my favorite spots will soon become too discovered or that those places I have been itching to try will quickly become untouchable. ABC Kitchen had been on my list for quite some time. And for no other reason than too much travel and other plans, I had yet to stop by. In fact, I had actually scored a reservation several times earlier in the year, but because of other conflicts, had to cancel. So in the spring when this year's James Beard Awards came out naming ABC Kitchen as New York City's best new restaurant of the year, I knew I was in trouble. Sure enough upon my immediate call for a reservation, I was relegated to the 5 pm or 10 pm slots which I couldn't quite bring myself to accept.


However, unlike most award winning restaurants, ABC Kitchen has an option for the everyday diner - setting aside four or five tables every night in the front of the restaurant for first come first serve. And on my last Friday as a New Yorker, it was truly an honor to be one of the first to arrive and be served. In all honesty, we were still seated with the early birds by 6 pm, but somehow it felt much better than succumbing to the offensive 5 pm table. I was immediately nervous that our great fortune would run out if they attempted to rush us through the meal only to free up the seats for other lucky diners. Much to my delight, this could not have been any further from our experience. On my last Friday in New York, I enjoyed one of the most delicious meals I can remember AND it lasted nearly three hours. We were never rushed and we were never waiting as we kept the waitstaff plenty busy in ordering from all parts of the menu.


Not only does ABC Kitchen excel in its cuisine, but it is right on in catering to one of the most popular culinary trends of the moment. Nearly everything on the menu is both local and organic and the decor falls right in line with the food. The dinnerware and unique decorations are mostly handmade and more often than not, in support of local artisans. While the food shines above all, the setting is an experience of its own. As with any restaurant at this high caliber and with so many options, I urge you to go with as many people as possible so that you can sample as much of the menu as possible.


The toasts are a great way to start off the evening and to sample some of the freshest seasonal ingredients. We loved every bit of the crab toast with lemon aioli. An excellent dish to share is the pretzel dusted calamari served with both a marinara and a mustard aioli. The squid are nice and light, not overly fried and we couldn't decide which sauce we liked better as both were excellent. Another must order is the roast carrot and avocado salad with crunchy seeds, sour cream, and citrus. All I can say is fresh, fresh, fresh! And no matter the season, I hope this is always on the menu.


We were so wowed by our starters that I was sure the entrees wouldn't quite be able to keep up which I really would have been ok with. However, each and every main course that arrived at our table took the meal to the next level. Each dish was so excellent that none of us could decide which was the best. And if I were to return soon, I would order them all over again. The fried chicken was some of the best I have ever had and that is coming from a southerner. It was served with baby bok choy, ginger and spicy gravy. The Asian flavors along with perfectly crisp skin and amazingly moist meat turned an everyday dish into a unique delicacy. The next dish that is a must is the wild king salmon with creamed fava beans and crispy sourdough. I am often hesitant to order a salmon dish as I have rarely been blown away by them. But this dish gave the fish a new name in my books as it was perfectly cooked and paired with two very complimentary items. And just when I thought fish couldn't get any better, the steamed halibut with grilled fennel. blood oranges, and chiles arrived on the table. This was an extremely light dish but prepared with outstanding ingredients to create a unique flavor combination.


With a meal this spot on, dessert was an absolute must although we could sadly only stomach one after such a feast. We fell straight for the sundae - salted caramel ice cream topped with candied peanuts and popcorn, whipped cream, and homemade chocolate sauce. Don't let the popcorn scare you off as with every other ingredient offered on the menu, it is there for a reason - and an excellent one at that. With a meal starting off, continuing, and ending with such high standards, I can guarantee that ABC Kitchen's wait list isn't going to free up any time soon. But if you happen to be a lucky New Yorker with this new spot in your backyard, I encourage you to settle for the early bird special whether it's through an actual reservation or as a walk-in. So there you have it - New York at it's finest. I told you I'm still thinking about New Yorkers!


ABC Kitchen
35 East 18th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 475-5829
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Choptank

I still haven't gotten over the closing of The John Dory. It was just about a year ago that I was raving about this new, hopping seafood spot. Maybe I jumped the gun in thinking that a nautical themed restaurant could actually last more than a few months outside of Times Square. I still stand by its excellent cuisine as apparently it was the location that determined the restaurant's fate. Upon the end of the summer closing, owners April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman quickly claimed to be reopening as soon as they found the right neighborhood setting. A few months ago I was ready to tell them to hurry on up! However, the former owner of Dell'Anima and L'Artusi has already beaten them to the punch and opened up Choptank, the newest seafood hotspot on prime West Village real estate - all the while offering prices that are even more right.

And this seafood restaurant rings even closer to my heart as it is inspired by the cuisine of the Chesapeake Bay, home to the blue crab and some of my fondest childhood memories. Note: order up the crab! With both an eat-in bar up front and an oyster bar in the middle of the restaurant, Choptank offers all kinds of drinking and dining options. However, the complimentary old bay chips and crab dip offered upon table dining should be motivation to settle in for more than a drink. These homemade chips alone are delicious- perfectly crispy with a dusting of old bay. And the crab dip is made with fresh chunks of crab meat and mixed with just the right amount of mayo.

The menu is divided into raw bar, nibbles, starters, steam pot, seafood, and meat sections - all excellent for sharing. I was lucky enough to share the evening with Kristin of The Pearl Onion. In case you hadn't noticed already, these beautiful, standout photographs are compliments of her! I recommend starting with the roasted wild mushrooms with warm egg yolk as one of the few non-seafood options. But, it's really the perfectly tender braised octopus with paprika, potatoes and arugula that stands out. And, as tempted as I was to try either the fried chicken or other meat options, it was really the seafood that I went for during the rest of the meal - and I have no regrets doing so. Although they sound quite standard, the littleneck clams served in a garlic butter and herb sauce with country toast is a must. I highly advise ordering extra bread to soak up this sauce as it is a butter-lover's heaven. And as soon as the soft, warm bread came out, I knew it was a great sign for the fried oyster po' boy ahead. The traditional sandwich certainly lived up to its expectations and more as it was served with pickle slaw, ranch dressing, and tobacco onions. I cannot seem to get the combination of flavors with the slaw, in particular, out of my mind. But, the signature dish that should really not be missed is the jumbo lump crab cake served with haricot verts, salad, and saltines (yes, the most comforting, basic cracker in the cupboard). I almost always hesitate to order crab cake when I dine out since nine times out of ten the dish is overly breaded and fried leaving me longing for my mother's recipe. However, her Maryland based recipe uses saltines - what I now realize to be an award-winning ingredient!


Since I can already call the crab cake an old favorite, I definitely see myself spending many winter evenings ahead at Choptank. And as soon as the days start heating up (which sadly according to the Groundhog will not be for awhile), this spot will so easily transition to satisfy those summer seafood cravings. I have long been searching for the NYC restaurant with paper tablecloths and peel and eat 'em shrimp on the menu. It's hard to believe that it has finally arrived and just a few blocks from where I live. And despite my recent track record with seafood spots, I have no hesitations in claiming Choptank as a keeper.




Choptank
308 Bleecker St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 675-2009
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Momofuku Ssam Bar

It's time I got on board with the Momofuku empire. I've been a big fan of Noodle Bar for the past few years, but I am embarrassed to say I haven't been able to keep up with David Chang's east village dynasty. And now, as he is on the brink of bursting out of his familiar hood to open Momofuku Ma Peche at the Chambers hotel in midtown, I figure I better pick up the slack before it is too late. While I am still waiting for that lucky person to treat me to a night at Ko, I finally decided to head over to Ssam Bar.

Before I go any further, I want to clear up a common misconception that I and most others hold about the Momofukus. I had assumed that all of the restaurants must be Asian inspired - mostly due to my desire to continuously order the ramen from Noodle Bar. However, Ssam Bar quickly taught me that the Momofukus are all inspired by American cuisine. Of course this is an extremely broad term, but the point is that the menu is influenced by nearly all ethnicities. This even rings true at Noodle Bar as fried chicken is one of the featured dishes- I just need to learn to shift my one-tracked mindset there (and the name doesn't help either)!


The menu at Ssam Bar is broken up into raw bar options, small dishes, country ham, local/seasonal plates, and main courses covering the categories of meat, fish, and offal. This is one of the most adventuresome menus I have come across and as someone constantly looking for the strangest, yet most flavorful dishes, I was given a run for my money. The fact that there is even an offal section may turn many people off - and for those of you not familiar with the term, it basically is what it sounds like. I'll leave it at that since my hope is that you all can appreciate the role culinary expertise plays in innovative cooking. David Chang demonstrates that he can master any edible item from the most basic to the most complex.


We started the meal with an excellent assortment of seasonal pickles which included mushrooms, carrots, bok choy, corn, cauliflower, and kimchi. This is basically the extent of greenery on the menu and so we got our fix early on. If you are still craving a truly Asian inspired dish, I recommend the steamed pork buns prepared with pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers and scallions. The meat is perfectly seasoned and tender. The soft boiled egg with summer beans, bacon, and pumpernickel was as close to a salad as they offer - and this was actually one of my favorite dishes. But, the winning dish came from none other than the offal section. The crispy pig's head was so full of flavor and perfectly paired with cashew and pineapple kimchi slaw. I appreciated the presentation of the dish - resembling nothing more than simple fried cakes. The spicy pork sausage and rice cakes served with Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots is both hearty and full of fire. While the meats are definitely a feature of Ssam Bar, you should not miss out on the fish. We sampled a delicious grilled simple preparation of hamachi, one of their specials that evening.

I had every intention of making serious headway in the Momofuku world that night since Milk Bar is directly next door to Ssam Bar. However, with a menu where I was debating between ordering pig's head, country ham, and a bbq rib sandwich, I decided to order more and resign to the savory dishes. And, after peering in the window at Milk Bar, I realized I could soon make a whole meal even out of their sweets menu. Based on the crowds lined up inside and outside, I have no doubt that David Chang's big move uptown can only be a good thing. And he has given me every reason to continue to keep up with him and his adventures.


Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Avenue (@ 13th st.)
New York, NY 10003
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Emporio

While I'm definitely a city girl these days, there are many things that I do miss about the simple, country life. It's true! Pre-New York and pre-Paris, I was a country girl - well, for four years of college, at least. Something I miss the most about Vermont are its country stores scattered from one quaint town to the next. For those of you who are familiar with the Green Mountain State, you know exactly what I'm talking about - and are probably ready to hop in car and head straight up I-89. For the rest of you, just envision everything from homemade fudge to fresh produce and cheese to hand carved furniture - all under one roof. It's hard to think of anything you can't get there. And, it's nearly impossible to leave without a new selection of both kitchen staples and decorations. What's not to love about a general store?

Well, now imagine a country store that actually does the cooking for you. Emporio, Nolita's very own general store (literal translation as well), has brought the country to the city in the form of a bustling, Italian restaurant. While serving up a variety of Italian delicacies, they also separately sell all the organic produce, pasta, risotto, and oils offered on the menu. Forget worrying about grocery shopping earlier in the day, you can now head to dinner and the market in one fell swoop. Emporio's menu consists of cheese and meat sections, anti-pasti, small plates and sides, homemade pastas and pizzas, and main courses. With so many options, you may not be able to order it all. Not to worry, just save some items for purchase before you turn in for the night.

We started the evening with several starters, burrata and yellowtail, that were nightly specials. However, it was the appetizers from the regular menu that were my favorites. Do not pass up the fried artichokes or the fava bean salad. The artichokes with fine herbs, sea salt, and lemon were perfectly crisp and light. The fava beans, mint, pea shoots, and pecorino salad was also extremely fresh and seasonal. Since the pizza invasion continues to prosper throughout the city, I figured I would put their exposed oven to the test. Both pies were a complete hit - especially the stracchino, buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto and arugula. Stracchino is cow's milk cheese that is soft and creamy - completely melt in your mouth and perfect on a pizza. As usual, finding it hard to pass up pasta on any Italian menu, we went with the orechiette with shrimp, roasted cauliflower, and bottarga. This was a delicious combination of ingredients that resembled a baked pasta dish. Emporio is the real deal as far as homemade cooking goes. Not only are diners exposed to the pizza oven, but they can also see into the kitchen as it uses organic eggs in creating each and every homemade pasta. It doesn't get more comforting than that.

In case we hadn't had enough of their delicious dough, we decided to finish off the meal with a nutella, hazelnut, and marscapone calzone. It was a wonderful taste of sweet and savory - a great way to round out a nice, long meal. As we waited out the departure of the rowdy table behind us, we were finally able to enjoy talking without having to shout. Given the high volume and two rooms full of crowded tables, I think Emporio seems to have settled into city life quite nicely - maybe even faster and better than I have in the end. I realized that one of my favorite parts of the evening was towards the end of the night, once the restaurant had quieted down. It was at that moment that Emporio actually resembled the comforts of a true country store. Yes, I'm a city girl, but definitely part-country too.



Emporio
231 Mott St.
New York, NY 10012
(212) 966-1234
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

The John Dory

White fish have always been somewhat of a mystery to me. Don't get me wrong, it is something that I love to eat and very often order. But, when it comes down to it, I am far from an expert on differentiating between the various types of fish. I see sole, flounder, cod, sea bream, John Dory, skate, catfish (you get the idea) on the menu and I really never know what makes a certain fish unique or more appealing than the next. Well, John Dory (aka St. Pierre) just moved up in the ranks in the sea of white fish for me. A restaurant serving seafood as excellent as The John Dory has given new meaning and recognition to what I used to think of as just another white fish. While a restaurateur's mission is to come up with a catchy name, he or she would never settle for using mediocre food to draw in diners. Without having to ask or even ordering it, I am fairly confident I can tell you what their signature dish would be.

The John Dory is located on tenth avenue in the land of large-scale restaurants. It is sandwiched between Del Posto and Craftsteak while facing Morimoto across the way. Unlike its neighbors, it is actually a smaller, more intimate atmosphere. And, unlike its Italian, Japanese, and red meat focused counterparts, the John Dory is based around a nautical theme - both in setting and its menu. In this long, narrow space with stained glass ceiling lined with fish, there are numerous options for diners. Up front there is the regular bar backed by a live, bright aquarium where those enjoying anything from cocktails to a full meal are able to dine without having to reserve in advance. The oyster bar, further in the back, actually takes reservations and, while it specializes in raw fare, full meals are also encouraged. For additional seating, but equally as intimate, there are a few tables in the main room as well as in a tiny room tucked away behind the aquarium. No matter your location, you definitely feel as though you have stepped off of Manhattan soil and into a world under the sea (far from the East or Hudson Rivers).

This is not the kind of place where I would have expected an amuse bouche, but right away, we were offered a taste of smoked arctic char with creme fraiche served with crispy yuca chips. This reminded me of one of my favorite Nantucket treats - blue fish pate from the Straight Wharf Fish Store. Not only was I brought back to one of my favorite destinations, but I immediately realized that this was going to be an evening of high quality food - and I probably should have raised all expectations - perhaps, petit fours at the end! Besides mains, appetizers, and sides, The John Dory offers raw bar and crudo selections. While the oysters are as delicious as expected, the live sea urchin with blood oranges is worth trying for both taste and presentation. For those of you with texture issues, this might not be your dish, but I highly recommend it for an adventuresome palate. For a more traditional appetizer, the grilled octopus salad with celery, fennel, and bottarga (cured fish roe) is an excellent choice.

It goes without mention that the whole roasted John Dory for two is an excellent main course. However, I was blown away by another fish - the pan roasted cod with mantecato, chili, and artichoke chips. The flavors and level of spices were the perfect combination - starring yet another white fish in my books. If you are looking for a taste of meat amidst all of this delicious seafood, the seared squid stuffed with chorizo is a great option. Even though you probably don't need to order anything more, at a restaurant this good, it is hard to pass up on affordable options such as the side dishes. The sweet potatoes with marrow are extremely hearty while melting in your mouth. And, my end of the meal prediction was right on. Just when you are nice and full, patting yourself on the back for closing up the dessert menu without ordering, a small plate of sweets is automatically placed in front of you. The John Dory surely does not cut corners as the night winds down - serving a unique pomegranate, chipotle caramel and a more traditional hazelnut truffle - both rich and full of flavor, officially setting you over the edge.

Any themed restaurant, especially a nautical one, has high potential of not being taken seriously in the culinary world. Let's hope The John Dory has just raised the bar for the genre. This may be the first restaurant with pet fish while actually knowing how to cook fish. The John Dory is not the kind of place where you need to go for a big event, but rather a fun, yet relaxed night out with a friend or two. I have a feeling when eating out at other restaurants, I will hear myself saying "I'll have the John Dory" more often these days. But, I am even more certain, whether it's a weekend or a weeknight, I'll be saying "Meet me at the John Dory" - it's the perfect, island escape and you don't even have to worry about costumed and singing waiters or sharks!



The John Dory
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (212) 929-4948
website