Luzzo's

One of the things I find most comforting about living in New York City is that no matter where you are in the city, you are never far from a slice of pizza. While I would love to say that each and every slice is just as satisfying as the next, we all know that the city isn't that perfect. The few times I have found myself indulging in a mediocre pie I've actually considered trying to return it and venturing to the next outpost knowing a great slice is never too far away. With pizza in such plenty, there should really be no excuse for settling for a mediocre pie. And I have recently learned that heading over to the east village will get you as close to pizza perfection as you could dream of. In the past year, it seems as if the city's hottest pizza joints have made their way to the southeastern end of the city. With Chinatown ever-expanding and Little Italy slowly disappearing, here comes New York's very own Pizzatown.

If it weren't for the overwhelming lines due to no-reservation policies (and mouth-watering pies), it would be nearly impossible to decide between Una Pizza Napoletana, Artichoke Basilles pizza, Motorino, and Luzzo's - all competitors in the never ending debate about the best pizza joints in the city - all within just a few blocks of each other. And in just a few weeks South Brooklyn Pizza, another popular Brooklyn establishment, will move right in to the neighborhood. The east village may want to consider employing crowd control professionals as New Yorkers have been known to go crazy over so many delicious options.


Of all spots in the east village I've mentioned, Luzzo's is actually the most underrated as well as the most manageable. While there are no guarantees that there won't be a wait, I can guarantee that the wait will be shorter than at its competitors. This is not an indication of the quality of the food, but rather the buzz in the air. And lucky for us, the word about Luzzo's has been just a touch quieter of recent. Located in any other city or even any other part of town, Luzzo's lines would be out the door - and to most observers the crowds are already far from thin there. It's important to note: all things are relative in Pizzatown.


And amidst all the buzz and competition, Luzzo's pies truly stand out, serving Neapolitan pizza with a twist. Instead of serving the traditional wood-fired fluffy pizza, the chefs produce pies that are both coal and wood-fired. The end result is an unforgettable crispier version of a Neapolitan pizza. I highly recommend the simplest of pies - the Bufala made up of bufala mozzarella, basil, and homemade tomato sauce. Add mushrooms or pepperoni if you require a step above the basics, but I promise you won't need much more. Instead of piling on the toppings, I prefer starting with one of their salads as these will be the perfect companion for their simple pizzas. I'm not sure if it's the thinner crust, a result of the coal oven, or just the excellent flavors in the homemade tomato sauce combined with such high quality mozzarella (I'm pretty sure it's the combination of all), but you won't have any problems finishing off these pies.

My new comfort in living in New York is knowing that the east village is just a neighborhood away. And for guaranteed pizza satisfaction, I can head right there. I would actually like to thank these establishments for setting up shop in such close proximity to each other. It truly does us all a favor. And I'm OK accepting that there really is no guarantee which spot will have me before venturing out - it's truly just a numbers game at this point. But, it is a great feeling knowing that Luzzo's is never far away. See you soon in Pizzatown!

Luzzo's

211 1st Avenue (between 12th & 13th)

New York, NY 10003

(212) 473-7447

menu

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Faustina

Hotel restaurants are in a category of their own. Before heading out to one and especially once stepping inside one, you are often too aware that you are dining within a hotel. And, I'm not really sure that is always a good thing. I do love hotel bars - treating myself to that overpriced martini or two every once in awhile. It's really a small price to pay to spend an hour or two in a temporary lap of luxury. But the restaurants within can certainly be hit or miss - and usually it's the quality of the food, not the setting, that taints the experience. For this very reason, hotel restaurants come and go. It's not until the culinary expertise equates these grand settings that we actually recognize a keeper. However, I have recently realized that striking a balance between the setting and the kitchen can often be the true challenge.

The young Cooper Square Hotel is no stranger to this very struggle for hotel restaurants. After a quick appearance as Table 8, the restaurant within has been transformed into Faustina. And by transformed, I mean, the kitchen has been taken over by the successful chef Scott Conant of Scarpetta. This was certainly a wise move for our stomachs, but I fear that the warm spirit of the kitchen has not quite made it's way out into the pre-established dining room. They have certainly succeeded in taking over the menu, but the disconnect with the sterile setting is all too apparent. This could be the rare case of the hotel restaurant where it is actually the food outshining the space that leads to yet another change in hands. For the sake of my culinary enjoyment, I really hope this isn't the case.

The front bar room of Faustina is definitely the place to be. If this were the model for the rest of the restaurant, my fears would be completely subsided. This entry room is the best of both worlds where the culinary expertise has blended with a chic, modern hotel atmosphere. And since you can order nearly the entire menu up front, I'd highly encourage that you do so. Faustina's menu ranges from breads and olives, cheese and meats, raw bar, appetizers, pastas, mains, and sides. What more could you ask for out of an Italian powerhouse? With such an extensive menu, I highly recommend going with as many diners as possible (aka trying as many items as a stomach can handle). The grilled ciabatta with poached duck egg and fonduta is a must. Believe it or not, this is actually not as overly rich as I had expected. So, whether you are using your own spoon or sopping up the remains with additional olive oil brushed ciabatta, there shouldn't be anything left in the bottom of this dish. I also loved the combination of flavors in the lardo wrapped prawns served over rosemary lentils. I seriously could have ordered almost every starter from the menu, but to narrow it down, I also highly recommend sharing the short ribs of beef served with spaetzle and horseradish. The meat was prepared perfectly, falling right off the bone.

If sharing a pasta, the kitchen kindly splits the dish into two separate bowls - a gesture that I have grown to appreciate. It is almost as if they anticipate how difficult it is for two diners to truly share such a delicious dish. And this was definitely the case for us. I recommend the strozzapreti with suckling pig ragu. These elongated hand-rolled tube pasta, are al dente and topped with a rich tomato based pork ragu. The duck breast with asparagus, black trumpets and fennel spice is an excellent option to continue the sharing until the end. The use of fennel with the duck was truly striking. To round out this feast or any combination of dishes that you order, I urge you to try the truffled cabbage. Truffled anything is hard to top, but I love the way that cabbage embraces flavors and this is the perfect way to showcase truffles.

So your mouth is probably watering now after reading about all of these delicious dishes. And mine was certainly too as I was deciding my meal at the Cooper Hotel. But, even after such a satisfying meal, I didn't experience that sense of excitement that I usually feel when I am desperate to get to my computer and spread the word. I couldn't help but have my culinary satisfaction overpowered by the dissatisfaction with the atmosphere in the dining room. Part of me had wished we had just stayed up front and eaten at one of the many tables in the bar. And part of me just wished Faustina had taken a moment to breath - a moment to take the concept in the kitchen out to the actual dining room. I'm convinced it's not necessarily too late to do this. But in the meantime, head for the tables in the bar room. Order that fancy cocktail and take advantage of an expert hotel kitchen - as we all know, these are certainly few and far between.

Faustina (at the Cooper Square Hotel)

25 Cooper Square

New York, NY 10003

website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Momofuku Ssam Bar

It's time I got on board with the Momofuku empire. I've been a big fan of Noodle Bar for the past few years, but I am embarrassed to say I haven't been able to keep up with David Chang's east village dynasty. And now, as he is on the brink of bursting out of his familiar hood to open Momofuku Ma Peche at the Chambers hotel in midtown, I figure I better pick up the slack before it is too late. While I am still waiting for that lucky person to treat me to a night at Ko, I finally decided to head over to Ssam Bar.

Before I go any further, I want to clear up a common misconception that I and most others hold about the Momofukus. I had assumed that all of the restaurants must be Asian inspired - mostly due to my desire to continuously order the ramen from Noodle Bar. However, Ssam Bar quickly taught me that the Momofukus are all inspired by American cuisine. Of course this is an extremely broad term, but the point is that the menu is influenced by nearly all ethnicities. This even rings true at Noodle Bar as fried chicken is one of the featured dishes- I just need to learn to shift my one-tracked mindset there (and the name doesn't help either)!


The menu at Ssam Bar is broken up into raw bar options, small dishes, country ham, local/seasonal plates, and main courses covering the categories of meat, fish, and offal. This is one of the most adventuresome menus I have come across and as someone constantly looking for the strangest, yet most flavorful dishes, I was given a run for my money. The fact that there is even an offal section may turn many people off - and for those of you not familiar with the term, it basically is what it sounds like. I'll leave it at that since my hope is that you all can appreciate the role culinary expertise plays in innovative cooking. David Chang demonstrates that he can master any edible item from the most basic to the most complex.


We started the meal with an excellent assortment of seasonal pickles which included mushrooms, carrots, bok choy, corn, cauliflower, and kimchi. This is basically the extent of greenery on the menu and so we got our fix early on. If you are still craving a truly Asian inspired dish, I recommend the steamed pork buns prepared with pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers and scallions. The meat is perfectly seasoned and tender. The soft boiled egg with summer beans, bacon, and pumpernickel was as close to a salad as they offer - and this was actually one of my favorite dishes. But, the winning dish came from none other than the offal section. The crispy pig's head was so full of flavor and perfectly paired with cashew and pineapple kimchi slaw. I appreciated the presentation of the dish - resembling nothing more than simple fried cakes. The spicy pork sausage and rice cakes served with Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots is both hearty and full of fire. While the meats are definitely a feature of Ssam Bar, you should not miss out on the fish. We sampled a delicious grilled simple preparation of hamachi, one of their specials that evening.

I had every intention of making serious headway in the Momofuku world that night since Milk Bar is directly next door to Ssam Bar. However, with a menu where I was debating between ordering pig's head, country ham, and a bbq rib sandwich, I decided to order more and resign to the savory dishes. And, after peering in the window at Milk Bar, I realized I could soon make a whole meal even out of their sweets menu. Based on the crowds lined up inside and outside, I have no doubt that David Chang's big move uptown can only be a good thing. And he has given me every reason to continue to keep up with him and his adventures.


Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Avenue (@ 13th st.)
New York, NY 10003
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Poco

Don't let the name fool you on this one. While I love the concept of being able to share small plates, I usually leave a tapas restaurant feeling completely unsatisfied or satisfied, but having spent way too much money. At Poco, where the philosophy is still all about sharing, there is actually nothing little about these Latin American dishes. This new restaurant fits right into Alphabet City with its laid back atmosphere and affordable prices. You can actually average a plate and a half per person and walk away with both a full wallet and belly. And, don't let the traditional tapas items on this menu shape your expectations. Each of my favorite dishes was based off of classic plates, but presented and prepared with a twist.

Halfway through my meal, I realized that Poco is the reincarnation of one of my old favorite east side dives. Upon sneaking downstairs, I was pleased to find that the second bar in the basement is still available for private parties. Whether you are there for a party or dinner, I highly recommend exploring their cocktail menu. The Poco Splash- gin, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and a splash of cava- was one of the most refreshing mixed drinks I have stumbled upon in awhile. And while that was not a special of the evening, be sure to tune into their weekly offerings as they range from trivia night to cocktails du jour.

Poco is all about having a good time - and the food falls right into this theme. I highly recommend the lobster mac-n-cheese prepared with manchego, parmesan, asiago cheese, topped with crunchy panko. Believe me, for every bite of lobster you score, you will know why it's a must. Another new take on a traditional dish is their calamari- tossed in a honey chipotle aioli and served with roasted piquillo peppers and fresh cilantro. I have never tasted calamari prepared in this way and am now wondering why this isn't the suggested preparation - it was delicious. The other dish you should not miss out on is the skirt steak and manchego cheese lollipops. The accompaniments of sweet onion jam and cilantro pesto take this tapa from one level to the next. And, for a lighter option, I recommend the mango tuna ceviche served with jicama, cucumber and jalapeno.

Perhaps its name is referring to the little amount of money you will spend, or the cozy little bar in the basement, or even the adorable little glass jars used to serve iced water. But Poco's food is certainly not the root of its namesake. If only more tapas restaurant shared this little philosophy - my wallet would be in much better shape!



Poco
33 Avenue B (at 3rd st.)
New York, NY 10009
(212) 228-4461
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Apiary

Oh the empty promise of Restaurant Week. That special "week" that comes and goes twice a year in New York City and without fail, always seems to be extended for nearly a month. I guess Restaurant Month doesn't sound nearly as exotic or enticing. Nevertheless, it's still quite easy to fall prey to this biannual event, especially if you are a newcomer. Don't get me wrong, I love a good deal (3 courses for $35 sounds pretty appealing). But, over the years, I have ended up spending much more money than a usual outing while settling for just mediocre options - all in the name of Restaurant Week. The obvious perk - checking out a new restaurant and having an excuse to order all three courses - all too easily outweighed by several drawbacks. Time and time again I find myself disappointed in the 2-3 options per course of the specially crafted Restaurant Week menu. Shouldn't I be struggling (as I do with any of my favorite restaurants) to make my choices from those dishes I have been dying to try? There is no excuse for a mediocre meal in NYC - even if you are somehow saving a few pennies. And, let's be honest - when do you usually order all 3 courses - so are you really saving in the end?

Well, I finally met my Restaurant Week match during a night out at Apiary last month. My positive Restaurant Week experience this year says it all about this east village find. For every course on the prix-fixe menu, the choice was not necessarily obvious - allowing a variety of plates to land on our table. And, when the dishes came out, I was still pleased with them. I will admit that there were many more options on the regular menu that I am now eager to return and try (hamachi crudo, thai beef salad, peking duck breast, and grilled hanger steak to name just a few!). But, based on the great preparation of each dish that we did order, I know that I will be heading back to Apiary to check them out. I guess that is the ultimate goal of each and every restaurant participating in the event - tease the guests in hopes of guaranteeing return customers. It is just hard for me to believe that it has taken me six years of Restaurant Weeks to feel this way.

I started the evening with the artichoke and baby arugula salad with sweet gold cherry tomatoes and lemon. It is hard to top this combination when putting together a salad. On the other hand, I don't normally crave roast chicken in the summer, and rarely even order chicken when I eat out. However, we all know that this summer has had some of the oddest weather in history. And, it just so happened that the night I was at Apiary was that cold, rainy day in July (every New Yorker is probably nodding their head and grimacing right now). It was definitely an unforgettable, odd evening and seeing roast organic chicken with mascarpone polenta, spring peas, carrots and tarragon jus on the menu just about made my night. Although it could feed an army, this dish was every bit as delicious as you might imagine. Just thinking back on the perfect preparation of the chicken, I can easily say that I would even return on a truly warm summer's evening to order this dish. I did manage to take it right back to summer by ordering the trio of ice cream and sorbets for dessert. With another tough option in front of me, I settled on passion fruit and strawberry sorbet with caramel ice cream. For a moment, I was worried that these three flavors would not go well together - but the presentation of three separate, small bowls made my strange combination completely acceptable. And, in the end, the strawberry sorbet was the winner.

So, the big question - am I back on the Restaurant Week train? We did end up at Apiary during this week by coincidence. But, perhaps the week had already been extended and we were lucky enough to reap the benefits. Either way, I went into the night thinking I might have 1-2 nice courses, and ended the night having 3 great ones. Apiary is just completely reliable - solid food, attractive setting, and central to downtown. If Restaurant Week will introduce me to an Apiary every 6 months, then, yes - count me in.


Apiary
60 Third Avenue (at 11th)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 254-0888
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

DBGB Kitchen & Bar

Before you get too comfortable, I suggest grabbing your phone. You may want to just go ahead and dial (212) 460-5777 so that your phone is ready to go immediately after reading this. I haven't been this excited about a new restaurant in awhile. And I'm not even sure what has excited me the most - the fact that Daniel Boulud just recently opened a gourmet sausage restaurant, that it is located downtown, or that the setting and food were close to perfect just four days after its opening. DBGB, located down the street from the 2006 shuttered music club CBGB, has already put this block back on the map. You may have already walked right by the unassuming #299 written in white chalk on the glass door. But, once you know what is on the inside beyond the glass walls that surprisingly enclose a new, hopping restaurant, I challenge you to pass by without grabbing a beer or a bite.


DBGB is doing it right. The space is excellent. The entire restaurant has a very comfortable, laid-back vibe, made up of a casual front room, offering tables and a large bar, and a more upscale back room, scattered with both booths and tables. No matter where you are sitting, the food will be excellent - and well priced. While sausages and burgers are definitely the signature dishes here, the menu offers much more. And, I encourage you to be bold and branch out, and, as usual, embrace the practice of sharing. We started the meal with a few appetizers - tuna crudo with harissa-sesame sauce, cucumbers, radishes and crispy rice and then asparagus, fried egg with duck proscuitto, cracklins, and mustard-egg dressing. Both were delicious, but the egg dish is a must. I have tried many versions of this dish recently and this one ranks with the best.

Those that know me best know that sausage is probably my biggest weakness (well, besides bacon). In all fairness, I should probably just admit my soft spot for pork products. So there was no question that the next stage of dinner would involve sharing several of their homemade "links, bangers, and saucisses." We devoured both the Beaujolaise - pork, mushrooms, onion, bacon and red wine link with lentils du puy, followed by the Tunisienne - spicy lamb and mint merguez with lemon braised spinach and chickpeas. These were excellent - especially the Beaujolaise. I could taste each and every ingredient that had been brought together to create this perfectly homemade link. There are several others that I am eager to return and try, although I know it will be extremely hard not to order this one again. We also did not get a chance to try any of the burgers, but each and every one that passed our table made our heads turn. They were the perfect size followed by the perfect aroma. I will be honest that after the time the second burger passed by our table I immediately regretted not ordering one. But, once I took my first bite of our final dish, the handmade strozzapreti pasta made with braised veal, spring peas, zucchini, and tomato, I was actually glad to have gone in another direction. This al dente pasta was extremely well prepared topped with another excellent testament to DBGB prepared meat. In the end, sticking to any kind of meat will do you just right.

We were definitely on a roll at this point and decided to prolong the meal with the comforts of an ice cream sundae. While tempted by the coffee combination, we went with the apricot-pistachio, a less classic option. Their homemade pistachio ice cream was topped with marshmallows, vanilla cookies, caramel sauce, apricot coulis, and whipped cream. I was in heaven. While I had gone in to the night with tunnel (sausage) vision, I was walking away with so much more. It's going to be a long time before I tire of this menu. And, if you haven't already done so, pull that phone back out. You can go ahead and push send now.



DBGB
299 Bowery
New York, NY 10003
(212) 460-5777
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):