ABC Kitchen

As much as I love restaurant ratings and awards, I should admit that they make me more nervous than anything else. They actually legitimize the fear that some of my favorite spots will soon become too discovered or that those places I have been itching to try will quickly become untouchable. ABC Kitchen had been on my list for quite some time. And for no other reason than too much travel and other plans, I had yet to stop by. In fact, I had actually scored a reservation several times earlier in the year, but because of other conflicts, had to cancel. So in the spring when this year's James Beard Awards came out naming ABC Kitchen as New York City's best new restaurant of the year, I knew I was in trouble. Sure enough upon my immediate call for a reservation, I was relegated to the 5 pm or 10 pm slots which I couldn't quite bring myself to accept.


However, unlike most award winning restaurants, ABC Kitchen has an option for the everyday diner - setting aside four or five tables every night in the front of the restaurant for first come first serve. And on my last Friday as a New Yorker, it was truly an honor to be one of the first to arrive and be served. In all honesty, we were still seated with the early birds by 6 pm, but somehow it felt much better than succumbing to the offensive 5 pm table. I was immediately nervous that our great fortune would run out if they attempted to rush us through the meal only to free up the seats for other lucky diners. Much to my delight, this could not have been any further from our experience. On my last Friday in New York, I enjoyed one of the most delicious meals I can remember AND it lasted nearly three hours. We were never rushed and we were never waiting as we kept the waitstaff plenty busy in ordering from all parts of the menu.


Not only does ABC Kitchen excel in its cuisine, but it is right on in catering to one of the most popular culinary trends of the moment. Nearly everything on the menu is both local and organic and the decor falls right in line with the food. The dinnerware and unique decorations are mostly handmade and more often than not, in support of local artisans. While the food shines above all, the setting is an experience of its own. As with any restaurant at this high caliber and with so many options, I urge you to go with as many people as possible so that you can sample as much of the menu as possible.


The toasts are a great way to start off the evening and to sample some of the freshest seasonal ingredients. We loved every bit of the crab toast with lemon aioli. An excellent dish to share is the pretzel dusted calamari served with both a marinara and a mustard aioli. The squid are nice and light, not overly fried and we couldn't decide which sauce we liked better as both were excellent. Another must order is the roast carrot and avocado salad with crunchy seeds, sour cream, and citrus. All I can say is fresh, fresh, fresh! And no matter the season, I hope this is always on the menu.


We were so wowed by our starters that I was sure the entrees wouldn't quite be able to keep up which I really would have been ok with. However, each and every main course that arrived at our table took the meal to the next level. Each dish was so excellent that none of us could decide which was the best. And if I were to return soon, I would order them all over again. The fried chicken was some of the best I have ever had and that is coming from a southerner. It was served with baby bok choy, ginger and spicy gravy. The Asian flavors along with perfectly crisp skin and amazingly moist meat turned an everyday dish into a unique delicacy. The next dish that is a must is the wild king salmon with creamed fava beans and crispy sourdough. I am often hesitant to order a salmon dish as I have rarely been blown away by them. But this dish gave the fish a new name in my books as it was perfectly cooked and paired with two very complimentary items. And just when I thought fish couldn't get any better, the steamed halibut with grilled fennel. blood oranges, and chiles arrived on the table. This was an extremely light dish but prepared with outstanding ingredients to create a unique flavor combination.


With a meal this spot on, dessert was an absolute must although we could sadly only stomach one after such a feast. We fell straight for the sundae - salted caramel ice cream topped with candied peanuts and popcorn, whipped cream, and homemade chocolate sauce. Don't let the popcorn scare you off as with every other ingredient offered on the menu, it is there for a reason - and an excellent one at that. With a meal starting off, continuing, and ending with such high standards, I can guarantee that ABC Kitchen's wait list isn't going to free up any time soon. But if you happen to be a lucky New Yorker with this new spot in your backyard, I encourage you to settle for the early bird special whether it's through an actual reservation or as a walk-in. So there you have it - New York at it's finest. I told you I'm still thinking about New Yorkers!


ABC Kitchen
35 East 18th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 475-5829
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Prime Meats

As a restaurant lover in New York City, it is hard not to be intrigued by the Sifty Fifty. But while I trust Sam Sifton as a leading voice in the review world, I by no means feel the need to conquer his list. Now, I am not going to pretend like I haven't counted how many I have tried. In fact, I am currently up to 18. But, with a list that can change every few months where some of my favorites have already fallen right off (no more Babbo!), I like to go on about my business, scouring and selecting restaurants from all kinds of lists, sites, reviews, and storefronts. And, when a restaurant I visit happens to be on the Sifty Fifty, I do smile and think, check! That's another one down - at least, for now, until his list changes yet again.

And now look at me. Two of my last four posts come from THE list! Well, my most recent Sifty stop was over in Carroll Gardens at Prime Meats. Having visited and loved Franky's Spuntino many years ago, it was time to pay a visit to its sister restaurant. Plus, I couldn't pass up accompanying a friend who is in fact determined to cover the entire Sifty Fifty (always happy to help a friend on a culinary mission)! And as with a good number of restaurants on any kind of list, more often than not, be prepared to place your name on a list upon arrival. Unless, of course, you manage to skip out of work and hop a subway in time to beat the rush.


Either way, whether you are waiting for a table or you have managed the early bird special, I encourage you to take a load off and quench your thirst by enjoying their cocktail list. The daily punch is adorable, delicious, and affordable. I am also a big fan of the Aviation made with gin, maraschine liquer, creme de violette and lemon juice as it wasn't too sweet, but still bursting with flavor (and I really just love anything to do with aviators these days). Before you know it, it will be time to decide which meat(s) will soon satisfy your hunger. And not to worry, no matter the time of year, you will not be deprived of greens as the menu is inspired by the freshest, local ingredients in the area. At this farm to table cozy and romantic stop, be prepared to go home full and happy.


The menu is a mix of new American and the best of the German cuisine (hence, the meats). No matter the time of year, I recommend starting off with fresh oysters. This is the kind of place where you know they are going to be the freshest and the best - and yes, I still crave them in the winter as they actually transport me to warmer, sunnier places. You can't go wrong with the warm mushrooms and poached egg served with parsley and garlic. The combination melts in your mouth. We also started with the absolutely delicious celery salad made with celery, celeriac, radish, parsley and topped with cider vinegar and sunflower oil. And for the adventuresome or not, I urge you to order the roasted bone marrow. Forget what you are eating and think about the taste - this is buttery perfection. This dish is served with radish, gremolata, roasted garlic, and toast, so you are free to tailor it to your liking - although it even shines on its own.


For main courses, I highly recommend the roasted La Belle Rouge Chicken breast brined in pickle juice with sauteed greens, pulled thigh meat & mashed potatoes. It is absolutely delicious. Even reading this description makes my mouth water. If you are in the mood for a burger, you cannot go wrong with the black angus patty served on a house-made sesame roll with a fermented dill pickle, lettuce, tomato, onion and hand cut french fries. For more hearty meat options, the slow braised beef brisket in red wine, vinegar and juniper berries with braised cabbage and pretzel dumplings will warm you right up. And while this is no steak house, the steak options are worthy of it. Don't be shy and pass up on the steak-frites. We rounded out all of this lovely meat and produce with the most basic dessert of all - an apple tart. And while it was simple, by the end of the night, it was exactly what we wanted and needed.

Ok, I'll admit it. Mr. Sifton has yet to lead me astray. But, I do still give myself credit for being selective from his list and so far, only picking spots worthy of my review!



Prime Meats
465 Court Street
Brooklyn, NY
(718) 254-0327
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Aria

As promised, I am taking you directly back to my comfort zone - to a cozy wine bar in the west village where the food deserves just as much credit as both the drink and the setting. After witnessing months of abandoned storefronts in the neighborhood, I've begun to notice new businesses and especially restaurants returning to the scene. It's always amazing to me when a space that I never even imagined as a restaurant can suddenly transform into one over night. At Aria, this was definitely the case. It took me several strolls past the front window before realizing I was passing the space that had once been home to a pair of small boutiques that just couldn't quite make it off the beaten path. And while the interior of this new restaurant always looked so nice and cozy in passing, I will openly admit that I assumed it to be just another new, cute village spot whose atmosphere would probably make up for the overpriced small plates.


Well, I apologize now for being so quick to judge. But, in all actuality, I am really the one who was missing out all of these months. Aria has been an excellent addition to the west village dining scene since its opening in the early summer. And as the weather gets colder, this is the kind of spot you will want to head to and simply linger over several glasses of wine. I can imagine that on busy nights, the acoustics are not the best. However, I think the key in such a small space is just going in small groups. Anything more than four and you may as well keep walking. While they do offer a communal table in the middle of the restaurant, think of that option as more of a chance to get to know your neighbors and less of a chance to actually toast an entire table.


Each night there are additions to the menu that are definitely worth noting - so much so they even write them on the paper menu in front of you. And for a menu of small plates, the portions and prices are really very reasonable. The same goes for the assorted glasses of wine. The only draw back of encouraging small group dining here is that you probably won't get to sample as many dishes as you would like in one sitting. However that is the beauty of a neighborhood spot such as Aria. Your next visit is never that far away.

On any menu, if burrata is offered, it is a must - and this is no exception at Aria. We were lucky enough to stop by on a night when one of the specials was burrata served with tomatoes and prosciutto, dressed in balsamic vinegar. Another one of our favorites, also a special of the evening, was the shrimp skewers served with large white beans in a hearty red pepper sauce. I was underwhelmed by the oven roasted peppers and marinated anchovies with goat cheese, but a few heartier dishes on the regular menu really caught my attention. I highly recommend the beef meatballs and oven roasted tomatoes topped with fresh parmesan. But, it was the stewed calamari with capers and basil that really was unique and so full of flavor from the fresh herbs and berries. I have never eaten calamari in such a way, and it was a welcome change for a dish that usually only succeeds when fried.

Even though Aria has been around for several months, I would like to officially welcome it to the neighborhood. If the other abandoned storefronts continue to fill up in the example of Aria, we are in for a good year ahead. And just the other day as I was passing by, Aria took me by surprise yet again. In the face of scaffolding that has recently gone up out front, the restaurant has embraced a typical NYC hindrance and made the most of it - dressing the steel poles with festive greenery and vines. This place definitely deserves a second look.



Aria
117 Perry Street
New York, New York 10014
(212) 242-4233
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Marlow & Sons

It's not often that I come across a restaurant that is so memorable that I hardly know where to begin. Well, I have been sitting in front of my computer for the past thirty minutes recounting my extraordinary meal at Marlow & Sons - and all I see is a blank screen - well, now two sentences. I keep smiling as I can still almost taste every dish I devoured there last week. However, my great imagination is not helping me make any headway. While I wish I was this taken by a restaurant more often, it is probably best for all of you as I would never be able to finish a post (and keep my friends, family, and job).


So, where do I begin? It was the start of the year when I first mentioned this spot to you as it was part of A Mouth Watering Line Up for 2010. At that point in time, I stated that I was embarrassed to admit I had yet to experience Marlow & Sons. I am now just kicking myself for having missed out on it for the past few years. No matter the night of the week, I could easily find a reason to hop on the L train, walk 15 minutes south and dine here. The comfort in the setting whether at the rustic bar or wooden tables may be just what you are looking for on a low key Monday evening. Or perhaps, this romantic dimly lit country dining room is your idea of the perfect Saturday night date. Sign me up for any and all of these outings.


There are very few places that could get away with a menu offering just a few options and those that are as simple as "spaghetti," "tomato salad," or "soup." But that is one of the many great distinctions of Marlow & Sons. There is so much more to each and every dish that a detailed menu would actually never do them justice. The elaborate descriptions could never be captured on paper, only partially captured by mouth, and entirely captured by tasting. And even the simplest options of meats and cheeses that are just listed by name are so much more than that. Their delicate selection will provide options for all palates. If you are a fan of salami with peppercorn, I highly recommend the Toscano. I could eat plates of this thinly sliced meat - and it pairs extremely well with just about any kind of cheese.


While the menu is constantly changing, I urge you to order the salads that they offer that evening. I know it can sometimes be hard to get excited about a salad, but believe me, these will do the trick. I had heard a close friend say this before - and while I trusted him, it was not until I experienced it for myself that I really felt that excitement (I hope you can feel it now)! We ordered both the bean salad and the tomato salad. While both were incredible, it was the bean salad that blew me away. It was served with green beans, wax beans, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, leeks, basil and homemade croutons. It is the combination of the freshness of ingredients combined with their house dressings that set these creations apart. The tomato salad was served with red and golden beets, red onions, basil, and a homemade blue cheese dressing.

The soup of the evening was a pureed gazpacho garnished with homemade croutons, crispy salami, and a poached egg. Not only was this completely clever, but it was delicious. We rounded out the evening with their bouillabaisse which was served with just about every kind of seafood you can imagine in a light broth with fennel. Again, a traditional dish, but unlike most bouillabaisses which are heavy, this was prepared in such a unique, delicate way. And, of course, at the end of the night, there was no way to pass up on dessert. We went with their signature chocolate and caramel tart. I really hope and believe this is one of the few constants on the menu. While the two layers of chocolate were divine, it was the layer of homemade, soft caramel in the middle that completely wowed me. The sea salt sprinkled on top made it harder and harder to resist another bite.

Well, that wasn't so bad after all! My only difficulty now seems to be knowing where to end. I think I will just go back to daydreaming about last week's meal at Marlow & Sons. That seemed to keep my fingers from typing...




Marlow & Sons
81 Broadway
Brooklyn, New York 11211
(718) 384-1441
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Recette

I have recently realized that after investing as much energy and thought into restaurants as I do, I often regard them in the same light as I do people. If I didn't have as many amazing friends as I do, this might be a little sad. Thankfully, I am not lacking in that department! While friendships have always been top priority for me, I actually feel like I have had to make room for my relationships with restaurants. There are some that take warming up to, some that I immediately know I can do without, and then there are those others that sweep me right off of my feet. It's an instant connection - where I feel like they get me almost as much as I get them. A recent night at Recette reminded me of this great feeling and thus began my latest West Village friendship.

I have walked by this charming space on Greenwich and 12th street for years. Each time I would pass by, I would stop and stare at the empty tables inside, its mediocre menu outside only verifying my disappointment. And each time, I would secretly hope for the day when a new restaurant would take over - knowing that day was not too far away. The location and adorable space was just too good to go to waste. And with the recent opening of Recette, I may have gotten my wish and more. It is already a challenge to secure a spot at one of the few coveted tables at this New American gem. While the concept is based around small, sharing plates, many of the dishes are quite substantial. All are simple, yet elegant at the same time - an extremely appealing combination. And that rings true for food as well as a friendship. As I said, I am sold!

I highly recommend starting with the salt cod fritters. These are served with a lamb sausage ragu and a curry aioli. The meat ragu is the perfect flavor pairing with the crispy fish, creating a decadent starter. The wild arugula salad is an excellent lighter option. It is served with kumquats, mint, lemon, hazelnuts, and ricotta salata cheese. I can never get enough of arugula especially when it is topped with such unique ingredients. This was one of the dishes where I honestly felt like the chef knew me. It was as if he picked out everything that would suit me and put it into one salad without even having to ask.

For entree-like dishes, I highly recommend the Berkshire pork belly served with rock shrimp, baby turnips, romesco, and sherry caramel. The pork was the perfect texture and consistency. The one dish that fell short was the roasted foie gras served with fig jam. This had the makings of great flavor combinations, but unlike the pork, the texture was off. The highlight of the night, on the other hand, was the halibut served with morel mushrooms, baby artichokes, and asparagus in a saffron beurre blanc. With the use of so many of my favorite spring vegetables, this dish was the epitome of Recette's unique, simple elegance. But, it was the dessert that truly set me over the edge, leading me to declare my new best friend in a place. The ice cream club sandwich is served with cinnamon ice cream, rhubarb gelee, and bacon bark. Cinnamon ice cream AND bacon (chocolate bark shavings). I repeat: cinnamon ice cream and bacon! Most of you probably already know about my love affair with bacon, but most of you probably do not know that my all-time favorite ice cream flavor is cinnamon. Need I say more? Recette, you truly are a great new friend.





Recette
328 W. 12th Street (at Greenwich St.)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 414-3000
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):