Red Rooster Harlem

I always love it when restauranters are willing to take risks in the kitchen. But I especially love it when they are willing to be adventuresome when it comes to location. If it weren't for proprietors branching out, we may never leave home. In actuality, it is thanks to many clever restaurant owners that so many of us have ended up in our respective communities. All it takes is one popular restaurant and a new hot neighborhood is born. With nearly all of Manhattan bursting with eateries, finding undiscovered territories isn't as easy as it used to be. However, for Marcus Samuelsson, it simply meant walking out his front door and making others aware of it. After living in Harlem for several years, this celebrity chef was ready to bring his excellent cooking to a part of town very familiar to him, but less so to others. While this neighborhood is certainly well traveled, it is rarely visited for gourmet food.


Red Rooster Harlem may be one of the only of its kind in the area, but that has certainly not stopped the crowds. Dinner reservations are nearly impossible to secure and lunch is no easy feat either. This kind of success is begging for additional competition in the neighborhood. And I guarantee that within the next few years, the upward rent trend will have found its way to Harlem as well. While so much of its success can be attributed to delectable gourmet Southern cuisine, there is no doubt that Chef Samuelsson's passion for food and people has also been a driving force. When I visited on a cold Monday for lunch, he was visible bustling between the front of the restaurant and the kitchen. That spells out devotion.


While you are trying to narrow down the mouthwatering list of options, I urge you to order the corn bread with honey butter and tomato jam for the table. It's a shame they don't hand this out to every one as it pairs perfectly with nearly anything on the menu (not to mention, it completely melts in your mouth whether you eat it alone, with the butter, or with the jam). While the menu is scattered with Southern classics, nearly all of them are prepared with a twist - setting them apart. I highly recommend the shrimp and dirty rice served with raisin, curry leaves, almonds, and aged basmati. This is a much more delicate, yet flavorful take on the traditional shrimp and grits dish. For a heartier and heavier dish, I recommend the lamb and sweet potato hash served with egg custard, rosemary, and beets in a cast iron skillet. The sweetness of the potato pairs wonderfully with the lamb. But the dish that has every one talking (and rightfully so) is the fried yard bird - dark meat topped with white mace gravy, hot sauce, and shake. The spice is an excellent accent to the perfectly crisp skin. This is a must for any one making the trek uptown.


The only draw back of our guaranteed seating on a Monday at lunch was that they were out of the apple pie. I'm not sure if they make less on Mondays or if it is just that good that it runs out even on Mondays. Either way, I'm still very intrigued. I settled for the sweet potato donuts with cinnamon sugar as well as the coffee and donuts with vanilla whip and coffee creme. Both were extremely tasty, unique representatives of gourmet Southern cuisine. And if you are worried it might be awhile before you head that far north again, be sure to stop by the front window on your way out for to-go drinks and baked goods. Even if you don't have the room for it after your meal, by the time you make your way home, you most likely will. No question, it's an adventure heading to Red Hooster Harlem. It's now just a matter of making sure you can actually get in!




Red Rooster Harlem
310 Lenox Avenue
New York, NY 10027
(212) 792-9001
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Casa Mono

It should not have taken me eight years to make it to Casa Mono. Period. Sure, it is small and whenever I’ve passed it and peered in, always full. But, unlike many excellent, cozy restaurants in New York City, it is certainly not impossible to get into - and it is so nicely centrally located near Gramercy Park. I guess my discovery is better late than never. And for those of you looking for another go-to restaurant guaranteeing gourmet and innovative cuisine (and actually getting in the door), add Casa Mono to your list. While it’s not new to the city’s culinary scene, it could have fooled me with its inventive and fully energized kitchen, on display for the entire restaurant. Even if you aren’t lucky enough to be seated at the bar with front row access to the full preparation and execution of the menu, you’re sure to have enough of a view to be impressed and make your mouth water until your food arrives.


While much of its success can and should be attributed to the management of food icon Mario Batali, Casa Mono has chef Andy Nusser’s Spanish upbringing to thank as well. The menu is entirely influenced by his background, setting it apart from the rest of the traditional Batali Italian dynasty. It’s companion wine bar next door, Bar Jamon, offers a small taste of what Casa Mono has to offer - adding to the allure of this Irving Street destination. It allows diners the chance to wait out any crowds next door in an even more romantic and cozy setting. And I can promise that it’s worth the wait (even 8 years for me)!

The menu at Casa Mono is all small plates. Don’t let this intimidate the big eaters as nearly every plate we ordered had impressively sizable portions given their reasonable cost. I recommend about two plates per person, although they will most likely tell you to order at least three per mouth. The options are heavily weighted with seafood and pork - recalling its Spanish roots as well as pleasing me immediately. While the options do change keeping the menu fresh and exciting, there are definitely some staples that should stick around for years to come. I highly recommend the razor clams a la plancha as they are full of garlic and perfectly baked. For other seafood, I would recommend the pulpo (octopus) with fennel and grapefruit as well as the sepia (cuttlefish) with salsa verde. Two extremely refreshing dishes. For the sausage lover, you can’t go wrong with chorizo with cabbage and aged manchego. But, my favorite dish of the night was the fideos (baked pasta) with chorizo and clams - a dish that brings the entire menu together. The flavor combination is just perfect on top of the crispiness of the baked noodles.

And for those of you counting, Casa Mono is still on the Sifty Fifty. As you know I by no means swear by the list, but my eyes, ears, and taste buds do perk up every time I venture to one - checking if they are at least in line with Mr. Sifton. Well, I’ll vouch for him yet again. There is a reason this old-timer has stayed on the list and I’m just sorry it took me so long to confirm it.



Casa Mono
52 Irving Place
New York, NY 10003
(212) 253-2773
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Prime Meats

As a restaurant lover in New York City, it is hard not to be intrigued by the Sifty Fifty. But while I trust Sam Sifton as a leading voice in the review world, I by no means feel the need to conquer his list. Now, I am not going to pretend like I haven't counted how many I have tried. In fact, I am currently up to 18. But, with a list that can change every few months where some of my favorites have already fallen right off (no more Babbo!), I like to go on about my business, scouring and selecting restaurants from all kinds of lists, sites, reviews, and storefronts. And, when a restaurant I visit happens to be on the Sifty Fifty, I do smile and think, check! That's another one down - at least, for now, until his list changes yet again.

And now look at me. Two of my last four posts come from THE list! Well, my most recent Sifty stop was over in Carroll Gardens at Prime Meats. Having visited and loved Franky's Spuntino many years ago, it was time to pay a visit to its sister restaurant. Plus, I couldn't pass up accompanying a friend who is in fact determined to cover the entire Sifty Fifty (always happy to help a friend on a culinary mission)! And as with a good number of restaurants on any kind of list, more often than not, be prepared to place your name on a list upon arrival. Unless, of course, you manage to skip out of work and hop a subway in time to beat the rush.


Either way, whether you are waiting for a table or you have managed the early bird special, I encourage you to take a load off and quench your thirst by enjoying their cocktail list. The daily punch is adorable, delicious, and affordable. I am also a big fan of the Aviation made with gin, maraschine liquer, creme de violette and lemon juice as it wasn't too sweet, but still bursting with flavor (and I really just love anything to do with aviators these days). Before you know it, it will be time to decide which meat(s) will soon satisfy your hunger. And not to worry, no matter the time of year, you will not be deprived of greens as the menu is inspired by the freshest, local ingredients in the area. At this farm to table cozy and romantic stop, be prepared to go home full and happy.


The menu is a mix of new American and the best of the German cuisine (hence, the meats). No matter the time of year, I recommend starting off with fresh oysters. This is the kind of place where you know they are going to be the freshest and the best - and yes, I still crave them in the winter as they actually transport me to warmer, sunnier places. You can't go wrong with the warm mushrooms and poached egg served with parsley and garlic. The combination melts in your mouth. We also started with the absolutely delicious celery salad made with celery, celeriac, radish, parsley and topped with cider vinegar and sunflower oil. And for the adventuresome or not, I urge you to order the roasted bone marrow. Forget what you are eating and think about the taste - this is buttery perfection. This dish is served with radish, gremolata, roasted garlic, and toast, so you are free to tailor it to your liking - although it even shines on its own.


For main courses, I highly recommend the roasted La Belle Rouge Chicken breast brined in pickle juice with sauteed greens, pulled thigh meat & mashed potatoes. It is absolutely delicious. Even reading this description makes my mouth water. If you are in the mood for a burger, you cannot go wrong with the black angus patty served on a house-made sesame roll with a fermented dill pickle, lettuce, tomato, onion and hand cut french fries. For more hearty meat options, the slow braised beef brisket in red wine, vinegar and juniper berries with braised cabbage and pretzel dumplings will warm you right up. And while this is no steak house, the steak options are worthy of it. Don't be shy and pass up on the steak-frites. We rounded out all of this lovely meat and produce with the most basic dessert of all - an apple tart. And while it was simple, by the end of the night, it was exactly what we wanted and needed.

Ok, I'll admit it. Mr. Sifton has yet to lead me astray. But, I do still give myself credit for being selective from his list and so far, only picking spots worthy of my review!



Prime Meats
465 Court Street
Brooklyn, NY
(718) 254-0327
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Kin Shop

For the Top Chef fans out there, there was nothing quite like Season 1. While seven lucky chefs may have been crowned Top Chef over the past four years, there is really only one in my books. And when Harold Dieterle decided to open his first restaurant right around the corner from my first apartment in New York City, I definitely took that personally. Now that he has opened his second restaurant just a few blocks from my most current dwelling, I am convinced it is no coincidence - after all, I did just learn we both were married on the very same weekend this past year. Kindred food spirits, perhaps? It has definitely been a busy and exciting year for Harold as he opened a second venture where he has truly been able to display his culinary innovation and expertise that we all became so fond of through the television.


Kin Shop is named for the Thai word kin (to eat) as well as its relation and close proximity to Dieterle's original restaurant Perilla. It's name certainly does Thai food justice - especially on New York territory. I find it rare to come across an upscale Thai restaurant that still manages to embrace the true flavors of the region - even if this one does so with a sense of adventure. I only even label it upscale because the setting is actually appealing and quite cozy, all the while, still not too much of a scene. At most Asian restaurants in New York, I often find the atmosphere to lie at one end of the spectrum or the other. At Kin Shop, there is just the right balance of comfort and charm. Not to mention the right balance of both contemporary and classic Thai ingredients. While the menu offers dishes using very traditional Thai flavors, there are many elaborate combinations that demonstrate creativity from the other side of the world.

All of the dishes are meant to be shared - and no matter the size of them, they are perfect for it. We ordered several from each section and cleared the plates of each and every one. I highly recommend the warm sliced snap peas with diver seas scallops served with crispy shallots, pea greens, and toasted coconut. I also highly recommend the fried pork and crispy oyster salad topped with celery, peanuts, mint and a chili-lime vinaigrette. While the seafood adds a Western note to the dish, the Thai garnishes carry it right away from any form of familiarity. One of my favorite small plate options was the side selection of perfectly prepared, grilled eggplant served with rice pearls, fish sauce and mint. For any of the dishes, there is always the option of adding more heat or even a touch of sour as pots of Thai chiles and white vinegar arrive on each table as soon as the first dish arrives. Take care when adding the chiles as there is no turning back once these hit your system. Although, just to be safe, it's best to order the delicious side dishes of jasmine rice and crispy roti as they may be the perfect solution to bring back feeling to any numbed lips.

But, it was the larger plates that we were all most excited about. I can't decide which noodle dish I liked more as we all headed back for seconds on both. The pan fried crab vermicelli noodles are tossed with yellow chives, roasted chili, and tatsoi (a mustard green) and the stir fried wide wonton noodles are served with chicken sausage, thai broccoli rabe and oyster sauce. Best to satisfy both the seafood and meat cravings in ordering both. I also highly recommend the rabbit leg which has been steamed on the bone in a wet banana leaf leaving the meat tender and moist. This sour yellow curry was an extremely unusual and flavorful dish presented with multi-grain rice, eggplant chutney and thai basil. And finally, for one more spicy dish, go for the duck. The heat of the red curried roasted duck breast is offset with crispy roti, green mango, fresh herbs, and tamarind water that should all be wrapped in crisp green lettuce leaves. This is an excellent dish to give the chopsticks a rest and get your hands in on the action.

And while Asian restaurants are never high on my dessert curiosity list, we couldn't pass up the steamed passion fruit pudding as this seemed to be the most classically Thai dish on the menu. However, leave it to Harold to mix it up and serve it with buttermilk sherbet. Ingredients don't get more Western than buttermilk! And I have certainly used my fair share when making cornbread, fried chicken and pancakes. If only I had known how well it could be paired with passion fruit sauce and steamed pudding. Perhaps I could I have been more than just a Top Chef fan!



Kin Shop
469 Sixth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 675-4295
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Marlow & Sons

It's not often that I come across a restaurant that is so memorable that I hardly know where to begin. Well, I have been sitting in front of my computer for the past thirty minutes recounting my extraordinary meal at Marlow & Sons - and all I see is a blank screen - well, now two sentences. I keep smiling as I can still almost taste every dish I devoured there last week. However, my great imagination is not helping me make any headway. While I wish I was this taken by a restaurant more often, it is probably best for all of you as I would never be able to finish a post (and keep my friends, family, and job).


So, where do I begin? It was the start of the year when I first mentioned this spot to you as it was part of A Mouth Watering Line Up for 2010. At that point in time, I stated that I was embarrassed to admit I had yet to experience Marlow & Sons. I am now just kicking myself for having missed out on it for the past few years. No matter the night of the week, I could easily find a reason to hop on the L train, walk 15 minutes south and dine here. The comfort in the setting whether at the rustic bar or wooden tables may be just what you are looking for on a low key Monday evening. Or perhaps, this romantic dimly lit country dining room is your idea of the perfect Saturday night date. Sign me up for any and all of these outings.


There are very few places that could get away with a menu offering just a few options and those that are as simple as "spaghetti," "tomato salad," or "soup." But that is one of the many great distinctions of Marlow & Sons. There is so much more to each and every dish that a detailed menu would actually never do them justice. The elaborate descriptions could never be captured on paper, only partially captured by mouth, and entirely captured by tasting. And even the simplest options of meats and cheeses that are just listed by name are so much more than that. Their delicate selection will provide options for all palates. If you are a fan of salami with peppercorn, I highly recommend the Toscano. I could eat plates of this thinly sliced meat - and it pairs extremely well with just about any kind of cheese.


While the menu is constantly changing, I urge you to order the salads that they offer that evening. I know it can sometimes be hard to get excited about a salad, but believe me, these will do the trick. I had heard a close friend say this before - and while I trusted him, it was not until I experienced it for myself that I really felt that excitement (I hope you can feel it now)! We ordered both the bean salad and the tomato salad. While both were incredible, it was the bean salad that blew me away. It was served with green beans, wax beans, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, leeks, basil and homemade croutons. It is the combination of the freshness of ingredients combined with their house dressings that set these creations apart. The tomato salad was served with red and golden beets, red onions, basil, and a homemade blue cheese dressing.

The soup of the evening was a pureed gazpacho garnished with homemade croutons, crispy salami, and a poached egg. Not only was this completely clever, but it was delicious. We rounded out the evening with their bouillabaisse which was served with just about every kind of seafood you can imagine in a light broth with fennel. Again, a traditional dish, but unlike most bouillabaisses which are heavy, this was prepared in such a unique, delicate way. And, of course, at the end of the night, there was no way to pass up on dessert. We went with their signature chocolate and caramel tart. I really hope and believe this is one of the few constants on the menu. While the two layers of chocolate were divine, it was the layer of homemade, soft caramel in the middle that completely wowed me. The sea salt sprinkled on top made it harder and harder to resist another bite.

Well, that wasn't so bad after all! My only difficulty now seems to be knowing where to end. I think I will just go back to daydreaming about last week's meal at Marlow & Sons. That seemed to keep my fingers from typing...




Marlow & Sons
81 Broadway
Brooklyn, New York 11211
(718) 384-1441
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):