Del Posto

Like any heartfelt hiatus, mine lasted a little longer than expected. After all, it wouldn’t really have been a proper break had I not left you on your toes wondering when I would return. Wouldn’t it be terrible if on my return you were thinking, back already? Hopefully you are as thrilled as I am right now. In all honesty, I have been eager to write basically since the day I stopped. And now I’m sitting here giddy in the Atlanta airport as I tap away on the computer. Writing just feels good. And writing about restaurants - now that’s another story!

As promised, my time away from the computer was spent experiencing food and life to the fullest. So where do I even begin? I figure the best way to get back in is with a true bang. While I love nothing more than discovering hidden neighborhood gems, there is no denying how much I love and can appreciate the outwardly sparkling gems - the talked about restaurants that are actually worth your time, money, and indulgence. In my experience this is almost always my take on a Mario Batali restaurant. The man’s got talent. And Del Posto is no exception.


Located in a sort of no-man’s land between meatpacking and Chelsea, this large Italian restaurant opened nearly five years ago. Given it’s large size, ambiguous location, and simply the state of our economy, many may have assumed this would have been a short-lived venture. Del Posto has proven to be anything but. The difficulty in securing a reservation on even a Monday night is a definite indicator that its popularity is in fact continuously increasing. Since this was my first dining experience at Del Posto, I cannot personally attest to its improvement over time. But, I can say that it is certainly currently at a level of excellence that very few could ever attain and then maintain in such a demanding environment.


The setting alone is an experience. With the combination of live piano music as well as exposed balconies on the second floor, I felt as though I was transported to a previous era. It was truly romantic! So much so that I even noted and loved each delicate plate that the dishes were served on. Although, I won’t deny that my warm emotions may have also been influenced by the three delicious amuse-bouches that arrived at our table at the start of the meal. Without much surprise, the rest of the meal met up to this excellent beginning. Del Posto’s menu - both wine and cuisine - is an adventure. And, of course, with selections so inspiring, it was no question that we would order the five course tasting menu consisting of an appetizer, two shared primi dishes, one secondi, and dessert - all of which you have free reign to choose from any section of the menu. Since these mollusks are so rarely found on a menu, we started with the abalone carpaccio served with grilled asparagus and charred scallions. The carne cruda with truffled salsa, parmigiano-reggiano and shaved porcini mushrooms was the perfect complement to the sea snails. Both were light, yet full of flavor.

For the primi, we shared the spaghetti with dungeness crab, sliced jalapenos, and minced scallion and the ricotta pansotti with wild asparagus and black truffles. Both dishes were split into half portions, giving us a great sampling, but allowing room for much more. While both were excellent and homemade, my favorite was the pansotti which resembled a combination of mini tortellini and ravioli which immediately melted in my mouth. I was actually most surprised that the secondi portion of the meal ended up being my very favorite, especially since I was so pleased with how the meal started out. We ordered the seared duck breast with Apician spices, grilled apricots, and salt baked endive and the young lamb with lemon yogurt, chick peas and swiss chard ragu. There was a serious debate about which dish was better and basically ended with two completely cleared plates. Somehow, there was room still for dessert - the butterscotch semifreddo and the polenta cake baked in butter served with sage ice cream and caramelized sweet potato. The sweet and savory combination in the polenta dessert was incredible, but I was most impressed with the herbal ice cream which I so quickly devoured. Of course, no fancy meal is complete without additional treats from the chef and at Del Posto, this was no exception. There was not only one but TWO complimentary desserts to round out the meal. It's a wonder I didn't feel round myself by the end of the evening!


The night was one for the books. And I’m not the only one who seems to thinks so. I also know that any one reading this must have a list of restaurants set aside to try only on special occasions. Well, Del Posto should be at the top of yours. But, not to worry, I will soon bring you all back to reality. The Hungry Roach is back - and before long my latest neighborhood gem will be broadcast your way.





Del Posto
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 497-8090
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Macelleria

It's 5 pm on a Saturday night in New York. Two friends from out of town call letting you know they will be in the city and would love to see you for dinner. Would 8 pm work? While you can't wait to catch up with your friends, this is no simple request - especially for those of us who care about food. The current "go-to" restaurants are definitely out of the question. Opentable is booked - well, at least all the good options are taken. It's time to think about some of the old favorites - those spots that were always great, and are certainly (or rather, hopefully) still great. They are simply in the land of the forgotten. Although there was a quick moment of panic, I'm thankful for times like these when the forgotten can jump right back on the radar and take you back just a few years to some of your most memorable meals in the city.


A few weeks ago, it was Macelleria to the rescue. Four to five years ago, this was definitely on my list of "go-tos." I'll admit that I was a little nervous about any place where I was able to get a reservation at the eleventh hour. But the minute I walked in to a packed restaurant and bar, I was immediately put at ease. Little had changed and that was more than fine by me. The warmth of the brick walls and the festive decor made it even more perfect for our late fall dinner.

Macelleria is a rustic, Italian steakhouse - an extremely appealing setting among the many overpriced, trendy meatpacking options. And the menu matches perfectly with the atmosphere. We started with an iceberg wedge with gorgonzola and peppercorn dressing as well as the fried zucchini. The peppercorn added a nice kick to this basic dish, but it was the zucchini that I couldn't stay away from. The strips were so lightly fried and crispy - reminding me of Elio's, the best in my books. I was soon reminded that this was the first place where I tried wild boar meat and was pleased to see that my favorite pasta dish was still on the menu - pappardelle with wild boar sauce. The meat is so flavorful, setting it apart from any standard meat sauce. I also highly recommend the straw and hay tagliolini with peas and proscuitto for a richer, creamier option. While you cannot go wrong with any of the meat dishes, the simplicity of their fish preparations should not go overlooked. Be sure to look out for the special of the night which is usually baked with herbs and lemon and served over spinach.

Seeing old friends, indulging in hearty Italian food, and rediscovering an old favorite, it was a comforting night all around. While it could very well have been 2004, I did learn something new that night. I have no idea if this is a new addition or just something I hadn't observed on previous visits. Down in the basement, there is an even cozier, quaint area where a group of 20-30 were celebrating a festive occasion. And while I had just faced the last minute Saturday night dilemna a few hours earlier, I was reminded of the private space dilemna that we so often face in New York. Noted: Macelleria to the rescue for that situation too! It's always great to be reminded of the past, while learning something new.



Macelleria
48 Gansevoort St. (at Greenwich St.)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 741-2555
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Corsino

Every neighborhood deserves an 'ino. Few would argue that there could never be too many wine bars featuring meats, cheeses, antipasti and paninis in the most initimate of settings. The latest creations from this team have strayed slightly from the cozy feel of both the original greenwich village 'ino and the lower east side 'inoteca with last year's opening in gramercy and most recently with the borderline meatpacking/west village opening of Corsino. While the culinary concept is still the same, these grander atmospheres certainly change up the overall attitude and experience. In all honesty, I will always prefer the intimacy of the original spaces, but I am still pleased to welcome more cheese and wine to my hood. And, with more square feet, my chances of getting in are automatically heightened!

In addition to adding space, Corsino offers a menu that has added more components than its predecessors. With both fish and pasta options, there is less of a focus on small plates. Nevertheless, I recommend that you stick to what they know best as the paninis, crostinis, and antipasti are still the highlights. I recommend the roasted beets with yogurt and pistachio as well as the butternut squash with celery root, pomegranate, and guanciale. It's hard to go wrong with the crostinis, but the cannellini bean with artichoke as well as the sweet onion with walnut are among my favorites. The same is true with the paninis. For those who love spice, I dare you to try the coppa, hot peppers and wild arugula. For a classic taste, I recommend the proscuitto, fontina, and arugula.

I am convinced the larger plates are still works in progress. I enjoyed the flavors of the fussili pasta with sausage and tomato as well as the braised heritage pork Osso Bucco with fennel and onion. Both were well prepared, but were lacking the components that really wow me. I was extremely impressed with the unique flavors of the Heritage brisket meatballs served with tomato and pecorino. These are a must - and are quite a hearty portion. Paired with the delicious side of brussel sprouts tossed with cracked black pepper and parmesan, this dish could have been a full meal. I am already looking forward to going back on a cold winter's night and ordering my very own plate.

Some places get it right from the start. Most take a little time to heat up. Corsino is just starting to get warm. This certainly has not stopped the crowds from pouring in. As I said, the concept is there and the neighborhood is ready. As long as the wine keeps flowing, I have a feeling the best is yet to come.



Corsino
635 Hudson St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 242-3093
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

The John Dory

White fish have always been somewhat of a mystery to me. Don't get me wrong, it is something that I love to eat and very often order. But, when it comes down to it, I am far from an expert on differentiating between the various types of fish. I see sole, flounder, cod, sea bream, John Dory, skate, catfish (you get the idea) on the menu and I really never know what makes a certain fish unique or more appealing than the next. Well, John Dory (aka St. Pierre) just moved up in the ranks in the sea of white fish for me. A restaurant serving seafood as excellent as The John Dory has given new meaning and recognition to what I used to think of as just another white fish. While a restaurateur's mission is to come up with a catchy name, he or she would never settle for using mediocre food to draw in diners. Without having to ask or even ordering it, I am fairly confident I can tell you what their signature dish would be.

The John Dory is located on tenth avenue in the land of large-scale restaurants. It is sandwiched between Del Posto and Craftsteak while facing Morimoto across the way. Unlike its neighbors, it is actually a smaller, more intimate atmosphere. And, unlike its Italian, Japanese, and red meat focused counterparts, the John Dory is based around a nautical theme - both in setting and its menu. In this long, narrow space with stained glass ceiling lined with fish, there are numerous options for diners. Up front there is the regular bar backed by a live, bright aquarium where those enjoying anything from cocktails to a full meal are able to dine without having to reserve in advance. The oyster bar, further in the back, actually takes reservations and, while it specializes in raw fare, full meals are also encouraged. For additional seating, but equally as intimate, there are a few tables in the main room as well as in a tiny room tucked away behind the aquarium. No matter your location, you definitely feel as though you have stepped off of Manhattan soil and into a world under the sea (far from the East or Hudson Rivers).

This is not the kind of place where I would have expected an amuse bouche, but right away, we were offered a taste of smoked arctic char with creme fraiche served with crispy yuca chips. This reminded me of one of my favorite Nantucket treats - blue fish pate from the Straight Wharf Fish Store. Not only was I brought back to one of my favorite destinations, but I immediately realized that this was going to be an evening of high quality food - and I probably should have raised all expectations - perhaps, petit fours at the end! Besides mains, appetizers, and sides, The John Dory offers raw bar and crudo selections. While the oysters are as delicious as expected, the live sea urchin with blood oranges is worth trying for both taste and presentation. For those of you with texture issues, this might not be your dish, but I highly recommend it for an adventuresome palate. For a more traditional appetizer, the grilled octopus salad with celery, fennel, and bottarga (cured fish roe) is an excellent choice.

It goes without mention that the whole roasted John Dory for two is an excellent main course. However, I was blown away by another fish - the pan roasted cod with mantecato, chili, and artichoke chips. The flavors and level of spices were the perfect combination - starring yet another white fish in my books. If you are looking for a taste of meat amidst all of this delicious seafood, the seared squid stuffed with chorizo is a great option. Even though you probably don't need to order anything more, at a restaurant this good, it is hard to pass up on affordable options such as the side dishes. The sweet potatoes with marrow are extremely hearty while melting in your mouth. And, my end of the meal prediction was right on. Just when you are nice and full, patting yourself on the back for closing up the dessert menu without ordering, a small plate of sweets is automatically placed in front of you. The John Dory surely does not cut corners as the night winds down - serving a unique pomegranate, chipotle caramel and a more traditional hazelnut truffle - both rich and full of flavor, officially setting you over the edge.

Any themed restaurant, especially a nautical one, has high potential of not being taken seriously in the culinary world. Let's hope The John Dory has just raised the bar for the genre. This may be the first restaurant with pet fish while actually knowing how to cook fish. The John Dory is not the kind of place where you need to go for a big event, but rather a fun, yet relaxed night out with a friend or two. I have a feeling when eating out at other restaurants, I will hear myself saying "I'll have the John Dory" more often these days. But, I am even more certain, whether it's a weekend or a weeknight, I'll be saying "Meet me at the John Dory" - it's the perfect, island escape and you don't even have to worry about costumed and singing waiters or sharks!



The John Dory
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
Phone: (212) 929-4948
website