Millie's, Gilly's, and Bernie's

I try not to judge a restaurant by its name. But, I have to admit that I can't help feeling naturally drawn to one named after an actual person. There is just something really personal about it - something that begs me to enter the front door and learn the actual story behind the name. Or, at least, learn about the food behind the name. My affection for personally named restaurants also goes back to my upbringing in Richmond, VA. It was there that I was introduced to Millie's - my very first gourmet restaurant. Even though I know it's probably not the case, I really felt that I, at age 12, had been the one to discover it! I still feel like I can call this restaurant my very own - making that particular place and name that much more personal.

It is amazing to see that 15+ years later, Millie's is still going strong (much to my credit, I'm sure). The restaurants roots are actually Californian - starting in the 1980's in LA when owner Paul Keevil bought a tiny diner named Millie's from a couple, Millie and Jack. It quickly overcame its diner image with the inventive, gourmet cuisine he began producing. When he moved to Richmond, Paul took both the atmosphere and his culinary expertise with him. Located near the old row of tobacco warehouses along the James River (an area I used to fear going to, but now completely appreciate), Millie's definitely still has a casual diner feel - booths with individual jukeboxes, stools at the counter, and an open kitchen. The food, however, is anything but dineresque. The menu changes daily, but offers everything from Southern to Asian to Italian to Mexican. It is one of those places where everything looks so appetizing on the menu, so I usually end up ordering two starters for my meal. While the menu does so often change, look out for repeats. If spotted, do not pass up the crispy duck spring rolls with orange hoisin and cucumber salad or the seared sea scallop with asparagus risotto and ginger-carrot broth. Both are starters, but together make a great, filling meal. One of my favorite main courses which is actually so popular that it is almost always guaranteed on the menu is the Thai spicy shrimp with asparagus, shitakes, lime, red cabbage, cilantro, and peanuts over soba noodles. You really cannot go wrong with anything ordered. There are truly few spots where the energy level and quality level have been able to stand the test of time - and Millie's, making its way from west to east, really is one of them.

For years, I, along with close friends and family members, have been trying to get my mother, aka Gilly, to start a catering business. She (well, her cooking and love for food) is basically the reason that I was drawn to frequenting and discovering top-notch restaurants. Her kitchen could take on any of my NYC favorites any day of the week. And, last weekend during Easter, she did just that - boasting her amazing culinary skills to me once again. Since my sister and I hardly make it home more than three times a year, my mother basically goes over the top with any home-cooked meal. And, our encouragement definitely doesn't stop her. Last weekend, our feasts fell on Saturday night and Sunday for Easter lunch. My mother is capable of cooking all cuisines - and last Saturday at Gilly's, it was Mexican night. She made a filet mignon with a tomatillo-chipotle sauce. This is a great dish for a dinner party. Each plate had a layer of the salsa (so good I wanted to dip just about anything in it) under a lightly fried corn tortilla creating a nest for the beef filet. The filets had been sauteed and broiled for a minute or two with a slice of manchego cheese on top. To accompany such a decadent dish, we made a jicama (pronounced HICK-a-ma) salad with avocado, mint, jalapenos, lime and cayenne. This extremely light Mexican vegetable looks like a turnip, but has a sweet and crisp taste to it. It was a great compliment to the rich beef dish, but both had very nice spice and kicks to go along with it.

Since we were going strong, Gilly continued right on through to Easter morning. I can't remember the last time I spent Easter at home, but it was great to be there. I felt like a kid again as I searched around the house for my Easter basket - and to find it full of malt balls, peeps, various chocolates and jelly beans. Well, there was one indicator that I had grown up. I had to smile admiring the two 3.5 ounce jars of Duke's Mayonnaise sitting prominently in my basket on top of all my candies. There is nothing like Duke's - and sadly, they don't sell it up North. But, with these carry-on friendly jars, my kitchen pantry in NYC just seriously increased in its value! We then sat down to our final feast - Lamb Persillade from the Barefoot Contessa with a side of crispy smashed roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus. The meal was delicious - shouting springtime in both presentation and taste. Now, why is it that I only make it home just a few times a year?

And then, there is Bernie's - the Richmond sandwich shop that brings generations of Virginians together every day at lunchtime. No trip home is complete without a stop at this divey joint located in one of Richmond's many strip malls not far from the University of Richmond. I have no idea who Bernie is, but I like to envision him as a jolly, old man who peaked in college. This place is covered in pennant flags from colleges all over the US. Sure, I had to send them the Middlebury flag, but they immediately placed it right up there with the rest of them. The concept and menu is simple - subs, subs, and subs. Choices are basic - meat, cheese, and hot peppers. Hands down, there is really only one, well maybe two ways to go. Order the Italian (ham and salami) or Salami with cheese and a few hot peppers to give it a nice kick. No need to order more than a half for $3.75 since this is usually more than enough. There is just something about the way the sub bread is toasted and the right amount of ingredients that makes these sandwiches different from any others. If I could find something even remotely close to this in NYC, I might never get homesick again. Although, its fair to say that nowhere in New York would people actually wait 45 minutes, as we did last week, for a sub! But, just think of it as a time to socialize since I have never left there without running into a familiar face.

So next time you are in Richmond or if you need an excuse to get down there, just check out Millie's and Bernie's. You might even want to ring up Gilly- you never know what she will be serving and there just might be room for you at her hot ticketed table. That's the nice thing about names - they are an introduction. Once you learn them, you start to know a place or a person. If nothing else, it's an entryway. And, you never know what you will find behind the name. Certainly, there is a last (and usually a middle) name to follow. But, what I find more interesting is what is beyond the name. A name can only get you so far - it's personality and talent that will take you the distance. Millie, Gilly, and Bernie definitely have it and it's up to you to enjoy it!

The Hungry Rush

Food is rarely the focus at a wedding. That is typically true, unless, of course, you are attending a Roach wedding - where the bride cares, the mother of the bride cares, the maid of honor most definitely cares, and all of their friends and family care too! This past weekend, I attended my sister's wedding. While the entire weekend was absolutely amazing and words simply cannot do it any justice, I can attempt to fill you in on the delicious food that was consumed at the various events. If the setting and traditions were not enough to make you feel like you were in the south, the food surely did the trick.

The Bridesmaid luncheon was held at Redfield, a Virginia Historic Landmark that was built in 1853 in Halifax County by James R. Edmunds, my great-great grandfather. This classical villa-style residence served as a plantation home and sitting inside the estate, we were immediately brought back a few centuries. As we were surrounded by southern history, our plates echoed southern food. The hostesses had brought twelve boxed lunches from
Sally Bell's Kitchen located in Richmond. Each lunch contained a chicken salad sandwich on their homemade rolls, a cup of potato salad or macaroni salad, one deviled egg, a cheese wafer topped with a pecan, and a cupcake - not quite a light lunch that a typical bride might want the day before her wedding! I am pretty sure each item is made with Duke's mayonnaise - the secret to most amazing southern food. These delicious box lunches brought back memories of my childhood and made us all so happy to be bridesmaids to a hungry bride.

That night, the party moved into downtown Halifax for the rehearsal dinner. While the chic interior of Molasses Grill takes you far from its small town location, the cuisine remains true to its setting - serving excellent southern inspired food. For those who had visited Halifax in the past, they were shocked that such a sophisticated restaurant has entered the scene. And, for those who had never been to Halifax before, they were completely taken aback by a restaurant in such a small town serving New York quality food. The sweet potato crusted salmon was perfectly prepared in a butter sauce. But, it was the simple dessert - chocolate and vanilla mousse - that was the talk of the evening. Just when I thought I was full, I somehow had room for an entire champagne glass of this rich dessert and could not quite figure out why this usually basic dessert was so much more tasty than usual. It was nearly impossible to leave any behind - a great way to guarantee that the bride would go into food coma to ensure a great night's sleep before the next day's festivities.

The wedding day started out with a bang. It is hard to go wrong with a Brunswick Stew gathering at Easley Downs. A party at the farm is always guaranteed fun, but even more so when a pot of stew has been slow cooking for nearly 24 hours out in the yard. Brunswick Stew is the ultimate southern cuisine - a thick, spicy, tomato-based stew that could almost be the soup form of BBQ. This is more than a full meal on its own, but a slice or two of corn bread served as a great way to soak up all the flavors. And, for those with a sweet tooth and to truly bring us back to our childhood, we were served mini Mississippi Mud Pies. They may look like brownies, but the gooey chocolate and marshmallow interior takes the dessert to a new level. Overall, the farm feast was a wonderful last meal as a singleton for any bride and groom.

Since the bar had been set high at the gatherings leading up to the actual wedding, it was obvious that guests were excited for the main event at the breathtaking Berry Hill Estate. Within minutes of the start of the cocktail portion of the evening, every one was wowed by the passed hors d'oeuvres - in particular, the fried oysters on Ritz crackers. This is a specialty from the Country Club of Virginia in Richmond who so generously donated their recipe to the wedding. It was refreshing to see the bride and groom enjoying these delicacies and even eat a whole meal throughout the night. But, the number one, most talked about item was the dessert - caramel cake from Caroline's Cakes. There is no need for an actual wedding cake when you can serve something as delicious as these cakes. As with almost all of the southern fare served throughout the weekend, this cake is extremely rich and flavorful. I have had many caramel cakes in my day - and this one is hands down the best. With its seven layers of yellow cake and caramel icing, you only need a thin slice to do the trick - but I am pretty sure I saw several people heading back for seconds, maybe even thirds.

With such a southern feast all weekend, the only thing left to do was dance. The minute Complete Desire hit the stage, the guests hit the dance floor and never looked back. It was a good thing every one had stored up on food to carry them through the night. In my books, dancing makes a wedding - and hungry guests will not last long on the dance floor. So, in the end, whether people realize it or not, even at weddings, it all comes back to the food. Serve it up and people will dance the night away.





Congratulations Mr. and Mrs. Rush! Our glasses and forks are raised to you!