Casa Mono

It should not have taken me eight years to make it to Casa Mono. Period. Sure, it is small and whenever I’ve passed it and peered in, always full. But, unlike many excellent, cozy restaurants in New York City, it is certainly not impossible to get into - and it is so nicely centrally located near Gramercy Park. I guess my discovery is better late than never. And for those of you looking for another go-to restaurant guaranteeing gourmet and innovative cuisine (and actually getting in the door), add Casa Mono to your list. While it’s not new to the city’s culinary scene, it could have fooled me with its inventive and fully energized kitchen, on display for the entire restaurant. Even if you aren’t lucky enough to be seated at the bar with front row access to the full preparation and execution of the menu, you’re sure to have enough of a view to be impressed and make your mouth water until your food arrives.


While much of its success can and should be attributed to the management of food icon Mario Batali, Casa Mono has chef Andy Nusser’s Spanish upbringing to thank as well. The menu is entirely influenced by his background, setting it apart from the rest of the traditional Batali Italian dynasty. It’s companion wine bar next door, Bar Jamon, offers a small taste of what Casa Mono has to offer - adding to the allure of this Irving Street destination. It allows diners the chance to wait out any crowds next door in an even more romantic and cozy setting. And I can promise that it’s worth the wait (even 8 years for me)!

The menu at Casa Mono is all small plates. Don’t let this intimidate the big eaters as nearly every plate we ordered had impressively sizable portions given their reasonable cost. I recommend about two plates per person, although they will most likely tell you to order at least three per mouth. The options are heavily weighted with seafood and pork - recalling its Spanish roots as well as pleasing me immediately. While the options do change keeping the menu fresh and exciting, there are definitely some staples that should stick around for years to come. I highly recommend the razor clams a la plancha as they are full of garlic and perfectly baked. For other seafood, I would recommend the pulpo (octopus) with fennel and grapefruit as well as the sepia (cuttlefish) with salsa verde. Two extremely refreshing dishes. For the sausage lover, you can’t go wrong with chorizo with cabbage and aged manchego. But, my favorite dish of the night was the fideos (baked pasta) with chorizo and clams - a dish that brings the entire menu together. The flavor combination is just perfect on top of the crispiness of the baked noodles.

And for those of you counting, Casa Mono is still on the Sifty Fifty. As you know I by no means swear by the list, but my eyes, ears, and taste buds do perk up every time I venture to one - checking if they are at least in line with Mr. Sifton. Well, I’ll vouch for him yet again. There is a reason this old-timer has stayed on the list and I’m just sorry it took me so long to confirm it.



Casa Mono
52 Irving Place
New York, NY 10003
(212) 253-2773
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Buvette

Welcome to the neighborhood! After living in the west village for nearly 8 years, I do take it personally when a wonderfully warm culinary establishment moves right in. In a neighborhood where restaurants are constantly coming and going, I feel it has become my duty to greet a lucky few with open arms. The minute I walked into Buvette, my arms immediately extended. It's hard for me not to love a restaurant where a chalk-drawn map of France (and Italy) takes over its main wall and the name alone (the french word for refreshment) reminds me of the very reason I have a life outside of my apartment and office. This place already has a buzz in the air - and while it may definitely be coming from the wine, coffee, and even the food, the people have much to do with it too.


The owners are both friendly and hard at work. The minute you walk in, they make you feel as though you have personally been invited to dine with them - even on the busiest of nights. Buvette is tucked away on Grove street in the former home of the Pink Tea Cup, a soul food spot that never quite lived up to its prime location. It's the kind of place that nearly every one can find a reason to stop by. After all, who doesn't need or simply want refreshments in their life? And with both its (soon to be offered) early morning and late night hours, it's up to you whether you want to stop by for coffee or wine - or perhaps even both. The good news is that Buvette recognizes that every great refreshment should be accompanied by delicious food - offering an assortment of small plates to quench your every desire.


The menu is made up of a selection of tartines (open face toasts), fromagerie and charcuterie. However, in addition to these standard offerings, there are nightly specials that fall under the fish, meat, and vegetable categories. These are all small plates, although they are very generously sized as well as generously priced. The only trouble we ran into was fitting everything onto our table - these actually go with the small size theme. However, this meant we were able to take our time enjoying each plate as they were presented to us. Unlike many tapas restaurants, we never had to look at our entire meal in one glance.

I highly recommend the hazelnut pesto with parmesan and orange zest tartine. The citrus and cheese combination was an excellent addition to the hearty spread. I am eager to return and try the other tartines as this one was divine. If the kale and lentils are a nightly special, I urge you to order it. Served in an adorable mini cast iron cassoulet, the lentils are cooked with black kale and shallots in a balsamic sauce. A second cast iron dish full of pork arrived as an excellent compliment to the flavorful vegetarian option. The pork was braised perfectly with apples and calvados creating a savory and sweet taste in the tender meat. There wasn't a dish that left that kitchen that my eyes didn't follow as each and every was so appealing in both presentation and smell. Apologies to my dinner date - although thankfully, she was on the very same page as me. And that's what lead us directly to dessert. There was just no way around ordering the chocolate mousse and I can confirm that our eyes did not deceive us on that front.


I am just relieved I made it there before Lent as I am now off of sweets for the next 40 (now 35!) days. But that certainly will not keep me away from a stop off at Buvette in the near future. It does mean that on my next trip I'll have to keep my focus on my own little table which is probably just good news for my dining companion. And now I've got a legitimate reason to close out my next meal with another savory tartine (something I was tempted to do anyways)! With that kind of modification, Lent may not be quite as tough as it seems.




Buvette
42 Grove Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 255-3590
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Aria

As promised, I am taking you directly back to my comfort zone - to a cozy wine bar in the west village where the food deserves just as much credit as both the drink and the setting. After witnessing months of abandoned storefronts in the neighborhood, I've begun to notice new businesses and especially restaurants returning to the scene. It's always amazing to me when a space that I never even imagined as a restaurant can suddenly transform into one over night. At Aria, this was definitely the case. It took me several strolls past the front window before realizing I was passing the space that had once been home to a pair of small boutiques that just couldn't quite make it off the beaten path. And while the interior of this new restaurant always looked so nice and cozy in passing, I will openly admit that I assumed it to be just another new, cute village spot whose atmosphere would probably make up for the overpriced small plates.


Well, I apologize now for being so quick to judge. But, in all actuality, I am really the one who was missing out all of these months. Aria has been an excellent addition to the west village dining scene since its opening in the early summer. And as the weather gets colder, this is the kind of spot you will want to head to and simply linger over several glasses of wine. I can imagine that on busy nights, the acoustics are not the best. However, I think the key in such a small space is just going in small groups. Anything more than four and you may as well keep walking. While they do offer a communal table in the middle of the restaurant, think of that option as more of a chance to get to know your neighbors and less of a chance to actually toast an entire table.


Each night there are additions to the menu that are definitely worth noting - so much so they even write them on the paper menu in front of you. And for a menu of small plates, the portions and prices are really very reasonable. The same goes for the assorted glasses of wine. The only draw back of encouraging small group dining here is that you probably won't get to sample as many dishes as you would like in one sitting. However that is the beauty of a neighborhood spot such as Aria. Your next visit is never that far away.

On any menu, if burrata is offered, it is a must - and this is no exception at Aria. We were lucky enough to stop by on a night when one of the specials was burrata served with tomatoes and prosciutto, dressed in balsamic vinegar. Another one of our favorites, also a special of the evening, was the shrimp skewers served with large white beans in a hearty red pepper sauce. I was underwhelmed by the oven roasted peppers and marinated anchovies with goat cheese, but a few heartier dishes on the regular menu really caught my attention. I highly recommend the beef meatballs and oven roasted tomatoes topped with fresh parmesan. But, it was the stewed calamari with capers and basil that really was unique and so full of flavor from the fresh herbs and berries. I have never eaten calamari in such a way, and it was a welcome change for a dish that usually only succeeds when fried.

Even though Aria has been around for several months, I would like to officially welcome it to the neighborhood. If the other abandoned storefronts continue to fill up in the example of Aria, we are in for a good year ahead. And just the other day as I was passing by, Aria took me by surprise yet again. In the face of scaffolding that has recently gone up out front, the restaurant has embraced a typical NYC hindrance and made the most of it - dressing the steel poles with festive greenery and vines. This place definitely deserves a second look.



Aria
117 Perry Street
New York, New York 10014
(212) 242-4233
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Umi Nom

When looking to start a restaurant, most owners strive to set up shop in the most happening of neighborhoods. It's hard enough to stay open these days, so heading to the well-trafficked areas tends to ease some pressure, allowing them to focus on the actual kitchen. Well, meet Umi Nom's Chef King. He continues to do the opposite and continues to beat the odds. With the opening of Kuma Inn in 2003 on the second floor of a lower east side tenement, he was one of the first to discover this neighborhood that was not all that long ago considered a rough one. Now, one of the hottest areas in the city, the lower east side is home to countless high quality restaurants and bars, with a line continuously streaming out of Kuma Inn.


On the very outskirts of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, Chef King has opened up his latest, risky endeavor - Umi Nom. Similar to the successful Kuma Inn, the menu is a tribute to his upbringing, offering the most delicious Filipino and Thai creations. And similar to Kuma Inn, he has moved into an area that is still off the beaten path. In fact, the closest subway is the mysterious G train - have you ever even ridden on it? Nevertheless, when I visited midweek, the place filled up in no time. The neighborhood has certainly embraced this ethnic treasure and it won't be long before others follow suit. As the draw to Brooklyn continues, there is no doubt that this location will no longer seem so far off the map.


And the minute you enjoy the food, you too will realize the very reason that the G train continues to operate. All dishes are meant to be shared and don't hold back. They are all extremely well-priced and filling all at the same time - a carnivore's heaven. If there is one dish that you must order, it's the sauteed sweet sausage served with sticky rice and a Thai-chili lime sauce. We all know that sausage is my weakness, but honestly, this dish will make any one go weak at the knees. The sausage and the rice are both perfectly crisp on the outside, and soft on the inside. I also highly recommend the ma-banh beef tapa. This is fried, thinly sliced dried beef served with a smoked chili sauce. If that is not enough meat for you, try the grilled marinated pork chop served with fish sauce, plum sugar, lemongrass, and garlic. The charred, thin meat boasts extremely rich Asian flavors. I was also impressed with the umi nom crispy wings tossed in salt and anaheim peppers. This was an excellent Asian preparation for an American classic. You will also find more traditional rice and noodle dishes on the menu - which are all excellent as well. However, those dishes were not quite as original as the unique dishes that I mentioned above. The innovative dishes mixed with the traditional made for an eventful and satisfying evening from start to finish.

Now that summer has arrived, it's the perfect time of year for an adventure. A subway ride or two becomes a little less daunting as the days are longer, warmer, and just somehow more manageable all around. It's time to step out of your comfort zone, hope on that G train, and see what Umi Nom (and that delicious sweet sausage) is all about. Who knows, you may even discover your new favorite up-and-coming neighborhood and barely glimpse back at Manhattan. Based on Chef King's excellent location intuition, he may also be your perfect real estate guide.

Umi Nom
433 Dekalb Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11205
(718) 789-8806
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Balaboosta

Raise your hand if you are a fan of Taim. If your hand isn't up, I'm guessing you just haven't had a chance to stop by the west village falafel joint - it's simply a must on my list and should be on yours too. Raise your hand if you had any idea that the owners of Taim have recently opened a full-size restaurant in Nolita. I'm guessing most hands have gone down now. Somehow, the Taim family pulled a fast one on me. I was shocked and then immediately thrilled to hear that their new restaurant Balaboosta was already in full motion by the time I had learned about it. I am not going to pretend like I am always in the know before each and every new restaurant opens up. But, when it's a personal favorite owner, I usually make it my business to know way too much about theirs! And, in the case of Taim, I had let this one slip right on by.

So what actually led me to Balaboosta last week? You will have to excuse me while I take a quick minute to "nerd out" in the blogging world. Besides absolutely loving discovering, eating at, and sharing new found restaurants, one of the best parts of blogging is the other bloggers. I know it sounds a little cheesy, but blogging really creates a community where you become acquainted with people and actually feel like you know them without (usually) ever meeting them. Well, I was lucky enough to finally meet Miss Meat and Potatoes - as we have both become regulars visiting each others blogs. I tell her where to eat and she tells me what to cook. Can you imagine a better food duo? We recently realized our close proximity to each other and finally made a night out of it. And the best part is, after a lot of back and forth about where we should go since both of our lists are endless, she was the one to suggest Balaboosta for dinner. It's as if we were old friends (I know her hand was certainly raised at the start of this post)!

Ok - enough with the joys of blogging and on to the food! Balaboosta is an extremely welcoming atmosphere both from the outside and in. Passersby on Mulberry Street can actually look in and see through the glass facade what is cooking in the kitchen. The name which comes from the Yiddish term for "the perfect housewife" supports their mission to make diners feel right at home. And with these comforts comes the ease of a menu made for sharing. While large plates do exist, ranging from whole fish to chicken under a brick to butcher steak, we couldn't resist ordering up the small plates and being able to sample more of the menu. You cannot go wrong with fried olives. These are served with labne and the same harissa oil that you will come across at Taim. This was a great move to take these spices and oils across the city with them. I also recommend the roasted cauliflower with currants and pine nuts - an excellent blend of sweet and savory.

I was very intrigued by the make-your-own hummus as it was served with a mortar and pestle. The whole garbanzo beans, tahini and roasted garlic arrive deconstructed, requiring you to mash all of the ingredients together to create your ideal consistency. This would have been a great idea had all of the flavors come together in the way that I envision homemade, fresh hummus. And, in the end, we both agreed something was missing - possibly the oil. However, the homemade whole wheat pita brushed with rosemary and oil made the dish completely worth it. These are delicious and added the flavors that the hummus itself was missing. The salad of the evening was made up of a variety of beets, greens, and spiced nuts topped with a mango vinaigrette - the flavor combination was springy and delicious. Their spiced nuts are excellent allowing this salad to truly stand out. My favorite dish was the shrimp kataif with flying fish roe sauce. The shrimp were wrapped in a thinly shredded dough pastry and then lightly fried. The sauce actually resembled East Asian cuisines with the use of the roe and hints of wasabi - reminding me that the Middle East isn't too far away in Asia.

While I am certainly eager to head back and try some of the larger plates, there were still several small plates that we just couldn't squeeze in as well. That's always a great sign when leaving a place - knowing what you want to try on your next visit. At Balaboosta, they are certainly creating an atmosphere for diners to become regulars. Where diners can feel close to the kitchen, as if they were in their own home. And that's when I realized why I hadn't heard more about this new spot. This is simply their new home. With no hype and no fuss, they are just ready to get to know and welcome their regulars.


Balaboosta

214 Mulberry St. (Spring)

New York, NY 10012

(212) 966-7366

menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Sorella

Sorella makes me happy. Sure, it's pretty hard for good Italian food to do anything but. However, the fact that two women in their 20s opened this spot after a trip to Northern Italy is truly an inspiration. This is exactly the kind of place that I'd love to call my own - the kind of place perfect for good friends and family to gather. I'm not saying I've ever really wanted to open a restaurant. In fact, I can easily say I much prefer being on the receiving end. But, I can still dream of supporting a close friend in following their dreams and then claiming at least part of their grounds as my own- every restaurant needs a good appetite! Yes, that would be the ideal. If only it were my friends who had gone to Italy and come home to set up Sorella.

The varied layout in Sorella is excellent for nearly any social gathering imaginable. As you walk into the restaurant, most of the front room is occupied by the bar - excellent for glasses of wine or a full meal, and definitely ideal for both. Just a few steps towards the back, there is a large communal table with stools - intended for large groups, but open to friendly diners. The back room of the restaurant, while still elegant, is more laid back with table dining in an indoor garden-like setting. Regardless of where you end up, the food will keep you happy. Inspired by the Piedmont region in the northwest, the menu focuses on wine and small plates. While there are 3 special entrees offered each night, the restaurant's actual intentions are to inspire both sharing and wine consumption. And this place has no problem doing so.


Whether you are seated at the bar or at a table, a white paper cone full of fresh baked bread sticks will accompany you from the start of your experience. These are delicate, thin and topped with just the right amount of salt. If you weren't already planning to eat there, these will surely whet the appetite. While everything we ordered was offered as small plates, the sizes are actually quite generous. I recommend the arugula, prosciutto, black fig and Parmesan salad. We then shared the semolina fritte which is a wheat product similar to polenta. This side is a must. It's not quite as dense as fried polenta and there is an excellent sweet flavor in this dish. My favorite dish was the tajarin - a traditional egg pasta from the Piedmont region - served with lamb ragu, black pepper ricotta, pistachios, and mint - a truly outstanding flavor combination driven by the pepper. I was less impressed with the gnocchi prepared with a fresca cream sauce, brown butter pears and chives. These were mini and not quite as soft as I would have liked - almost resembling a sort of Israeli cous-cous. But, the grilled quail served with Benton's country bacon, black rice, apple, cranberry and arugula brought us right back to the great food and the good life that defines the Piedmont region.

And so, when it came time for dessert, I realized I'm not the only one who'd like to call this place their own. Whoever Molly may be, she has made her way onto the menu and her presence is most certainly known. Molly's birthday cake is a delicious nougat cake with chocolate fudge filling and frosting - and topped with a lit candle, of course. No matter the date, it's the perfect excuse to make a wish and I was more than happy to pose as Molly for the night. There is just no denying that Sorella was designed as a tribute to Piedmont and to great friendships. Here's to becoming a Molly and hoping her wishes come true!



Sorella
95 Allen St.
New York, NY 10002
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):