Prime Meats

As a restaurant lover in New York City, it is hard not to be intrigued by the Sifty Fifty. But while I trust Sam Sifton as a leading voice in the review world, I by no means feel the need to conquer his list. Now, I am not going to pretend like I haven't counted how many I have tried. In fact, I am currently up to 18. But, with a list that can change every few months where some of my favorites have already fallen right off (no more Babbo!), I like to go on about my business, scouring and selecting restaurants from all kinds of lists, sites, reviews, and storefronts. And, when a restaurant I visit happens to be on the Sifty Fifty, I do smile and think, check! That's another one down - at least, for now, until his list changes yet again.

And now look at me. Two of my last four posts come from THE list! Well, my most recent Sifty stop was over in Carroll Gardens at Prime Meats. Having visited and loved Franky's Spuntino many years ago, it was time to pay a visit to its sister restaurant. Plus, I couldn't pass up accompanying a friend who is in fact determined to cover the entire Sifty Fifty (always happy to help a friend on a culinary mission)! And as with a good number of restaurants on any kind of list, more often than not, be prepared to place your name on a list upon arrival. Unless, of course, you manage to skip out of work and hop a subway in time to beat the rush.


Either way, whether you are waiting for a table or you have managed the early bird special, I encourage you to take a load off and quench your thirst by enjoying their cocktail list. The daily punch is adorable, delicious, and affordable. I am also a big fan of the Aviation made with gin, maraschine liquer, creme de violette and lemon juice as it wasn't too sweet, but still bursting with flavor (and I really just love anything to do with aviators these days). Before you know it, it will be time to decide which meat(s) will soon satisfy your hunger. And not to worry, no matter the time of year, you will not be deprived of greens as the menu is inspired by the freshest, local ingredients in the area. At this farm to table cozy and romantic stop, be prepared to go home full and happy.


The menu is a mix of new American and the best of the German cuisine (hence, the meats). No matter the time of year, I recommend starting off with fresh oysters. This is the kind of place where you know they are going to be the freshest and the best - and yes, I still crave them in the winter as they actually transport me to warmer, sunnier places. You can't go wrong with the warm mushrooms and poached egg served with parsley and garlic. The combination melts in your mouth. We also started with the absolutely delicious celery salad made with celery, celeriac, radish, parsley and topped with cider vinegar and sunflower oil. And for the adventuresome or not, I urge you to order the roasted bone marrow. Forget what you are eating and think about the taste - this is buttery perfection. This dish is served with radish, gremolata, roasted garlic, and toast, so you are free to tailor it to your liking - although it even shines on its own.


For main courses, I highly recommend the roasted La Belle Rouge Chicken breast brined in pickle juice with sauteed greens, pulled thigh meat & mashed potatoes. It is absolutely delicious. Even reading this description makes my mouth water. If you are in the mood for a burger, you cannot go wrong with the black angus patty served on a house-made sesame roll with a fermented dill pickle, lettuce, tomato, onion and hand cut french fries. For more hearty meat options, the slow braised beef brisket in red wine, vinegar and juniper berries with braised cabbage and pretzel dumplings will warm you right up. And while this is no steak house, the steak options are worthy of it. Don't be shy and pass up on the steak-frites. We rounded out all of this lovely meat and produce with the most basic dessert of all - an apple tart. And while it was simple, by the end of the night, it was exactly what we wanted and needed.

Ok, I'll admit it. Mr. Sifton has yet to lead me astray. But, I do still give myself credit for being selective from his list and so far, only picking spots worthy of my review!



Prime Meats
465 Court Street
Brooklyn, NY
(718) 254-0327
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Brooklyn Fare

Apparently, I am all about the set menus these days. They are, of course, not an every night affair, but why can’t they be an every once in awhile affair? The amount of food that you are served, and if you are in the right place, the level of excellence that you witness, is certainly worth the price. Who doesn’t loved being served a chef's very best selection? And if you are ever given the opportunity to go or can plan far enough in advance to book a piece of its counter, add Brooklyn Fare to your culinary experiences.

When Chef Cesar originally opened this unique spot, it was the ultimate chef’s table - a kitchen with a basic table set in a simple space next door to the Brooklyn Fare grocery store in the heart of downtown Brooklyn. He would serve a fixed menu each night to the 12 lucky guests that had already recognized the talent of this rising star. Now, two Michelin stars later, Chef Cesar continues to produce the same, exquisite culinary creations, but in a much more established, systemized setting for 18 with up to three seatings a night - and with a higher price of $120 per person. There is still the BYO and serve yourself policy and just one menu each night that is really only set no more than an hour or so before the first seating. The daily menu is determined through experimentation based on the market’s freshest produce and catches.

Although the chef hails from Mexico, most of the menu is Asian inspired. The evening starts with an assortment of 10-12 small dishes that are not listed on the menu. Every one is seated at the arced counter that faces the kitchen and is served at the same time once dishes are plated and presented on display. Not only is every course unique in flavor combinations and ingredients, but each one was served in what seemed to be a dish designed perfectly for it. I apologize in advance for not being able to snap photographs of these mouthwatering creations, but photographs are no longer permitted in this intimate setting (explicitly noted in the menu).


If you are sushi lover, you will love this place as the majority of dishes were seafood - and often raw. Don’t let the idea of 10-12 small dishes prior to the actual menu scare you off as these were truly bite size or even finger food - and not even listed in the menu. On the night we were there, the seafood bites included a wild salmon ceviche, torro with ginger, oyster with grapefruit, king crab, yellowtail with jalapeno, sardine with thinly sliced fried potatoes, and smoked octopus with hearts of palm. Other highlights were a duck croquettes and a shot of pumpkin and parmesan soup. It was over an hour into the evening before anything from the set menu arrived in front of us, but at Brooklyn Fare, there is really no concept of time. Somehow you are never waiting for a dish, yet at the same time, you never feel rushed. While the main dishes did arrive on larger plates, the portions were nicely suited for the culinary feast we were in the midst of enjoying. Everything was so beautifully plated on usually just one part of the dish, it often resembled a piece of art. The highlights of the main dishes were scallops with shrimp risotto and pea shoots, pumpkin ravioli with truffles and porcinis, monkfish with foie gras and cabbage, and guinea hen with roasted brussel sprouts. Dessert was extremely understated with sorbet and petit fours - and that was fine by me as the finale to the sublime feast of nearly 20 dishes.

When food is coming at you with that level of grace and expertise, it is best to just take it all in and enjoy the moment you are in. While I can only begin to tell you about this experience, it is truly a personal one that I hope any one with food curiosities can take part in at some point. At first I was a little disappointed that no photographs were allowed. But, by the end, I realized no pictures could possibly do the meal justice and I am glad my amateur photography skills didn’t need to confirm that for all of you.

And for those of you who are all about the Roach Rating - you are seeing correctly. Brooklyn Fare earned all five! I admit that I did once declare that when I came across anything Five Roachworthy, my work was done. I take that back! I am already wondering, who will be the next?





Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn Street
New York, NY 11217
(718) 243-0050
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Marlow & Sons

It's not often that I come across a restaurant that is so memorable that I hardly know where to begin. Well, I have been sitting in front of my computer for the past thirty minutes recounting my extraordinary meal at Marlow & Sons - and all I see is a blank screen - well, now two sentences. I keep smiling as I can still almost taste every dish I devoured there last week. However, my great imagination is not helping me make any headway. While I wish I was this taken by a restaurant more often, it is probably best for all of you as I would never be able to finish a post (and keep my friends, family, and job).


So, where do I begin? It was the start of the year when I first mentioned this spot to you as it was part of A Mouth Watering Line Up for 2010. At that point in time, I stated that I was embarrassed to admit I had yet to experience Marlow & Sons. I am now just kicking myself for having missed out on it for the past few years. No matter the night of the week, I could easily find a reason to hop on the L train, walk 15 minutes south and dine here. The comfort in the setting whether at the rustic bar or wooden tables may be just what you are looking for on a low key Monday evening. Or perhaps, this romantic dimly lit country dining room is your idea of the perfect Saturday night date. Sign me up for any and all of these outings.


There are very few places that could get away with a menu offering just a few options and those that are as simple as "spaghetti," "tomato salad," or "soup." But that is one of the many great distinctions of Marlow & Sons. There is so much more to each and every dish that a detailed menu would actually never do them justice. The elaborate descriptions could never be captured on paper, only partially captured by mouth, and entirely captured by tasting. And even the simplest options of meats and cheeses that are just listed by name are so much more than that. Their delicate selection will provide options for all palates. If you are a fan of salami with peppercorn, I highly recommend the Toscano. I could eat plates of this thinly sliced meat - and it pairs extremely well with just about any kind of cheese.


While the menu is constantly changing, I urge you to order the salads that they offer that evening. I know it can sometimes be hard to get excited about a salad, but believe me, these will do the trick. I had heard a close friend say this before - and while I trusted him, it was not until I experienced it for myself that I really felt that excitement (I hope you can feel it now)! We ordered both the bean salad and the tomato salad. While both were incredible, it was the bean salad that blew me away. It was served with green beans, wax beans, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, leeks, basil and homemade croutons. It is the combination of the freshness of ingredients combined with their house dressings that set these creations apart. The tomato salad was served with red and golden beets, red onions, basil, and a homemade blue cheese dressing.

The soup of the evening was a pureed gazpacho garnished with homemade croutons, crispy salami, and a poached egg. Not only was this completely clever, but it was delicious. We rounded out the evening with their bouillabaisse which was served with just about every kind of seafood you can imagine in a light broth with fennel. Again, a traditional dish, but unlike most bouillabaisses which are heavy, this was prepared in such a unique, delicate way. And, of course, at the end of the night, there was no way to pass up on dessert. We went with their signature chocolate and caramel tart. I really hope and believe this is one of the few constants on the menu. While the two layers of chocolate were divine, it was the layer of homemade, soft caramel in the middle that completely wowed me. The sea salt sprinkled on top made it harder and harder to resist another bite.

Well, that wasn't so bad after all! My only difficulty now seems to be knowing where to end. I think I will just go back to daydreaming about last week's meal at Marlow & Sons. That seemed to keep my fingers from typing...




Marlow & Sons
81 Broadway
Brooklyn, New York 11211
(718) 384-1441
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Bogota

My excitement after discovering an ideal restaurant for groups in New York will never get old. It would be one thing if these sorts of discoveries were a regular occurrence. However, given the number of occasions we all eat out in large groups, they are never as easy to come by as we all would like. I know I just recently preached a similar tale back in the winter as I shared my wonderful group dining experience at Barbossa with you. But, it's true. The options for eating out in large groups that actually leave you in a festive mood are few and far between. And if it always takes me over six months to find another gem, well then, point proven.


Bogota, my latest group dining finding located in Brooklyn's Park Slope, is hardly new to the scene. Open for over five years now, it has been satisfying diners looking for a celebratory atmosphere and authentic Latin cuisine for many years. I will start to blame my full-time residency in Manhattan as the reason it has taken me so long to happen upon this spot. However, there is really no excuse as its constantly packed dining room on even a Monday night indicates Bogota is more than just a neighborhood joint. There are unbeatable specials nearly every night of the week that keep the regulars and attract those from afar.


And no matter the night of the week you end up here, I guarantee it will be hard to pass up on the pitchers of mojitos or other mixed drinks. With a bar full of infused liquors such as jalapeno tequila or black cherry gin, the greatest challenge of the night will be deciding how to satisfy your thirst. No matter your choice, it will pair perfectly with the plantain chips and homemade pico de gallo served at every table. You may also have a hard time deciding on the rest of your meal since the many options are so appealing. Whatever you choose or even as you choose, I highly recommend ordering an empanada sampler. This allows a sampling of four made with either Colombia cornmeal or Argentinian wheat. My favorites of the former was the chicken and potato and of the latter was the beef picadillo with chipotle tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the black bean and feta as well as the goat cheese with queso blanco are excellent options. You will also find other great sharing options in arepas, chips, quesadillas, and patacones sections.


For main courses, options range from large soups and salads to sandwiches and main dishes. Whatever your Latin craving may be, it can certainly be satisfied. I highly recommend the tortilla soup and it is quite a filling option. The soup is made with chicken, spicy chipotle broth, tortilla strips, avocado, sour cream, jack cheese, and cilantro. This hearty dish has the perfect combination of heat and fresh flavors. Depending on your mood, you can choose from beef, pork, poultry, seafood and vegetarian main courses - all to be accompanied by your choice of sides. My favorite is the jalapeno grilled catfish served with jalapeno marinade, fruit salsa, and tartar sauce with the sides of gallo pinto (sauteed black beans, white rice, cilantro, and onions) and vinegar based red cabbage salad. Both paired perfectly with the fish. Although I imagine they would do so next to skirt steak chimichurri, chicken mole, or any other hearty dish served.

It is amazing that one restaurant covers so much ground with one simple kitchen. There is no doubt that here you will find your favorites from both Central and South America and done so quite authentically. Although, I have to admit I am speaking from what I can only imagine to be authentic as I have yet to visit this part of the world. In my imagined Latin culture, I also envision group outings to be more than a regular occurrence. How could they not be in a land with such festive cuisine? In proclaiming such praise for this Brooklyn group dining find, I believe I've found the perfect opportunity for me to verify the authenticity of Bogota's food and setting. Looks like it is time for an adventure to Latin America! Until then, I stand by this recommendation on completely solid ground.





Bogota Latin Bistro
141 Fifth Avenue
(Park Slope) Brooklyn, New York 11217
(718) 230-3805
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Umi Nom

When looking to start a restaurant, most owners strive to set up shop in the most happening of neighborhoods. It's hard enough to stay open these days, so heading to the well-trafficked areas tends to ease some pressure, allowing them to focus on the actual kitchen. Well, meet Umi Nom's Chef King. He continues to do the opposite and continues to beat the odds. With the opening of Kuma Inn in 2003 on the second floor of a lower east side tenement, he was one of the first to discover this neighborhood that was not all that long ago considered a rough one. Now, one of the hottest areas in the city, the lower east side is home to countless high quality restaurants and bars, with a line continuously streaming out of Kuma Inn.


On the very outskirts of Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, Chef King has opened up his latest, risky endeavor - Umi Nom. Similar to the successful Kuma Inn, the menu is a tribute to his upbringing, offering the most delicious Filipino and Thai creations. And similar to Kuma Inn, he has moved into an area that is still off the beaten path. In fact, the closest subway is the mysterious G train - have you ever even ridden on it? Nevertheless, when I visited midweek, the place filled up in no time. The neighborhood has certainly embraced this ethnic treasure and it won't be long before others follow suit. As the draw to Brooklyn continues, there is no doubt that this location will no longer seem so far off the map.


And the minute you enjoy the food, you too will realize the very reason that the G train continues to operate. All dishes are meant to be shared and don't hold back. They are all extremely well-priced and filling all at the same time - a carnivore's heaven. If there is one dish that you must order, it's the sauteed sweet sausage served with sticky rice and a Thai-chili lime sauce. We all know that sausage is my weakness, but honestly, this dish will make any one go weak at the knees. The sausage and the rice are both perfectly crisp on the outside, and soft on the inside. I also highly recommend the ma-banh beef tapa. This is fried, thinly sliced dried beef served with a smoked chili sauce. If that is not enough meat for you, try the grilled marinated pork chop served with fish sauce, plum sugar, lemongrass, and garlic. The charred, thin meat boasts extremely rich Asian flavors. I was also impressed with the umi nom crispy wings tossed in salt and anaheim peppers. This was an excellent Asian preparation for an American classic. You will also find more traditional rice and noodle dishes on the menu - which are all excellent as well. However, those dishes were not quite as original as the unique dishes that I mentioned above. The innovative dishes mixed with the traditional made for an eventful and satisfying evening from start to finish.

Now that summer has arrived, it's the perfect time of year for an adventure. A subway ride or two becomes a little less daunting as the days are longer, warmer, and just somehow more manageable all around. It's time to step out of your comfort zone, hope on that G train, and see what Umi Nom (and that delicious sweet sausage) is all about. Who knows, you may even discover your new favorite up-and-coming neighborhood and barely glimpse back at Manhattan. Based on Chef King's excellent location intuition, he may also be your perfect real estate guide.

Umi Nom
433 Dekalb Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11205
(718) 789-8806
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):