Havens of Happiness: Part 3 - Paris

In no way am I going to pretend like I'm the only one whose happy place is Paris. No matter how many times I visit (or even live in) that city, I just can't get over it! Whether it's the food, the shopping, the scenery, the history, I really cannot get enough and I know I am not the first to feel this way. Basically to quote my mother, "I could eat or wear almost everything I see in this city." Does it get any better than that? Paris is truly the ultimate happy place. Each time I arrive in the city and catch my first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur or even the Louvre (yes, the cliche monuments I cannot deny), I still get chills. On my latest trip, it was more than a treat experiencing that feeling through the eyes of my new brother-in-law who stepped on Parisian soil for the very first time. I know he is a keeper since there was no hiding his new found love for my very favorite city. Either that or he is an amazing actor. And, either way, he survived the trip with 3 southern ladies professing their love for the city over and over again. Yup, he's a keeper.

Paris is where I truly discovered fine dining and gourmet food. In New York, you'll find a Duane Reede, Chase Bank, or Starbucks on nearly every block. In Paris, there is a boulangerie, patisserie, or cafe on every street. From the minute I set foot there, I knew I had signed up for the right language. The best part is that each and every establishment is always packed full of patrons enjoying life - drinking wine or coffee and smiling - secretly knowing they have landed a spot in the food capital of the world. It's actually overwhelming for me to think about where to begin telling you about the joys of food in Paris. But, in all honesty, my last trip to Paris was overwhelming in itself as I had to pack in all my favorites within just two days. Don't worry, I managed to wear myself down running all over the city, but was always able to charge back up with a replenishing - either through a meal or my afternoon pick-me-ups.

I'll start with the pick-me-ups, aka desserts on the fly. Now, based on the smell alone, it is tempting to stop in each and every patisserie or chocolatier that you pass by. However, I urge you to be selective - you actually can be in a city with endless options! If you find yourself exhausted from shopping at the boutiques in St. Germain or on the chic Faubourg St. Honore, you are in luck. Pierre Herme has locations now on both banks. Stop in here for the ultimate macaroon. This traditional French pastry often surprises most Americans who think macaroons are almond cookies available in the US. Believe me, you will know a French macaroon when you see one and these brightly colored treats are nearly impossible to come by on this side of the Atlantic. I urge you to try as many flavors as possible since they are constantly changing at Pierre Herme. However, the passion fruit with chocolate filling is a staple, and my favorite. Since I was there for two whole days, I was able to make two different trips. And, on the second visit, in addition to the macaroons, we tried their new sorbet and ice cream combination. These are excellent "to-go" treats as they are already packed in containers and are offered in very unique flavors - ours was cream cheese ice cream with passion fruit sorbet packed with caramelized nuts. But, the best ice cream and sorbet in the city, is without question Berthillon. While many of the cafes offer an assortment of their flavors, it is on the Ile-St-Louis where you will find the best price and best choices. My absolute favorite is the cinnamon ice cream (you can actually taste the cinnamon crystals) and I have yet to discover that flavor in any cafe. You will notice the small portions are no reflection of the intense flavors. I honestly believe Berthillon can beat out any American ice cream or gelato any day.


You probably don't need to be told that croque-monsieurs, quiches, and Parisian salads (ham, egg, tomatoes, emmental, etc.) are far better in Paris than anything you will find in the States. And, it never ceases to amaze me how a croissant or baguette from almost any boulangerie in Paris will always top our creations. So, I will shed some light on a couple of restaurants worth checking out. I love the brasseries. And, with only two nights in Paris, there was no question in my mind as to whether or not I would stop by my very favorite one - Chez Fernand. Located on Rue Guisarde in the 6th arrondissement, this is the epitome of French brasserie dining. Their smaller counterpart, Pet't Fernand, only a few streets away on Rue Lobineau, offers the same, affordable menu in a smaller, quainter setting. I prefer the original for larger groups and the small for a date - but, in culinary speaking, you cannot go wrong with either. At both restaurants, you will find the traditional French dishes you always read about, prepared to perfection. The haricots verts are true to their name - finer and more flavorful than the American version. It would be a shame to leave there without trying the duck breast or beef bourguignon. Order up the "pots" of wine for the house selection that is extremely affordable and far superior to most options in the States.


With just one night and meal remaining in the city of lights, I decided to take a risk and try out an up and coming, new restaurant in Montmartre - a great excuse to head up to one of my favorite parts of the city. Chamarre Montmartre is neither brasserie nor cafe, but rather inventive and modern - both in setting and in food. We indulged in a 3 course prix fixe, but somehow managed to eat close to 6 courses as the amuse-bouches served as palate cleansers before and after every course. We ordered from both ends of the spectrum for both the starters and the main courses. We began with a duo of foie gras and a trio of raw seafood, followed by roasted pigeon and baked sole. The mains were accompanied by seasonal, baby vegetables which tasted amazing, but almost looked fake to me! The excellent preparation and creativity of each and every dish demonstrated that this chef certainly knows what he is doing. Our desserts followed the same pattern as both were a combination of fresh fruits, pastry, and sorbet - light and refreshing, yet full of flavor. I have a feeling a star or two could be coming to Antoine Heerah any day now.


Well, that about sums up my happy places (for now). It's time to bring myself back to the world of NYC or at least start writing about it again. While New York City isn't necessarily what I would call a happy place since I have been living here for 6 years (and let's face it, the wear and tear of it creates a love/hate relationship for most), I have countless amazing memories and feelings when I am there. And, it's always a great feeling to return to my apartment after both short and long trips away. After hiking the 5 flights of stairs and struggling with my suitcase, I actually just get that happy feeling - that "it's nice to be home feeling." I'll always and already miss ACK, SD, and Paris, but I'm happy to say it - it's good to be back.

Bar Artisanal

The warm sun is finally shining. The film festival has successfully come and gone. And the Triple Crown is headed to New York once again. Just when you thought you had no reason to head south, here comes Tribeca. I am always looking for a reason to head to the Triangle Below Canal Street (yup, that's what it actually stands for), but I actually never feel extremely drawn to the neighborhood. The name has always sounded cool to me and, given the high quantity of lofts in the area, I always think there is great potential for attractive destinations. However, if someone were to ask me my favorite "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca, there definitely would be a hesitation. And eventually, I would sadly have to admit that I hardly ever even go to Tribeca!

That was, at least, the case until a few weeks ago. Ask me the same question today and I can immediately answer - Bar Artisanal. It's amazing how much can change in so little time. This new venture from the owners of the uptown Artisanal exemplifies what Tribeca should be all about - great space, excellent food, and affordable prices. The extremely high ceilings create a grandeur while its brasserie decor maintains a comfortable and casual vibe. I am reminded of all that I love about the French dining experience.

The menu is extremely varied and affordable, encouraging sharing and indulgence. I really appreciated the Amuse Bouche section where there are not only excellent options, but they are also decent portions. I recommend the manchego beignets and the fried artichokes. As far as taste goes, the beignets are actually exactly as you would imagine they would be. I have rarely come across a beignet or a cheese I would turn down so I was overjoyed with this combination. The artichokes are prepared with a Provencal anchovy sauce that is excellent. From the raw fish section, the diver scallops with citrus soy dressing, sesame powder and cilantro is a great option. This is an extremely fresh and light dish, but with very bold flavors.

My favorite section on the menu is the Petits Plats. I was extremely impressed with so many of these dishes. Not only were the flavors right on, but again, so were the portions. The hardest part is narrowing down the many options. The soft egg, wild mushrooms, ramps, and frico (parmesan crisp) was incredible. As the yolk breaks, all of the ingredients are brought together and create a sort of upscale dip. Save some of the warm baguette that they bring out at the start of the meal as you will certainly need something to sweep this plate clean. I would also urge you to try the cod, chorizo, fingerling potatoes, and cockles. While this may sound like a typical cod dish, the flavors in the sauce bring all of the ingredients together in a way that only French restaurants can truly master - I am certain there is just a hint of buerre in there. And, finally, the octopus with chickpeas and smoked paprika is a definite order. I was not as impressed by the overly smoked flavors in the pork belly, however, the meat alone was very well prepared.

After sharing several small plates instead of ordering a traditional 2 course meal, I am almost always able to convince myself that I have eaten less (no matter how full I really am feeling). Given the nice sized portions of the smaller plates at this restaurant, there was no question that I had been well served. However, this feeling has never stopped me before and small plates somehow justify and actually really do encourage ordering up one final course. At Bar Artisanal, I urge you to keep up this small plate mentality. The chocolate mousse with hazelnut crunch, coffee granita, and chocolate foam had even the fruit lovers going back for more. However, for the fruit lover, the whipped ricotta with a ruhubard-ginger compote topped with a balsamic glaze is the way to go. I have no question that I have now found my "go-to" restaurant in Tribeca. And as soon as others see this excellent use of space, I have a feeling there will be many more to follow in this direction. I have never denied it. No matter the time of year, there is always a reason to head south!



Bar Artisanal 268 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-1600
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Balthazar

Sometimes you just want an old standby. There are not too many New York City restaurants that can say they have seen both the 90s and the 21st century. New restaurants are constantly opening up overnight. Critics, foodies, and chefs alike wait in anticipation to see if the latest talk of the town will be a success. And, according to most in the food industry, no restaurant is safe until they have been open for at least seven years. Too often, most don't quite make the cut. Balthazar is a restaurant in Soho that has seen it all, served it all, and will survive it all - even the rough roads ahead. At the end of the day, it's nice knowing what you are in for and heading to a place that has a following of both young and old, locals and tourists, Americans and foreigners.

I have spent many memorable meals at Balthazar over the years. It is one of the few restaurants that I went to prior to moving to New York and still return to. Believe it or not, back in the day, I spent most of my time in midtown when visiting the city. But, Balthazar has always guaranteed great food and in a wonderful setting - nearly transporting me directly to a typical brasserie in France. No matter the time of day, whether you are eating lunch, brunch or dinner, there is a constant buzz in the air. As the French would do, diners linger for hours on end and most tables are packed with groups indulging in as many courses as possible.

Ordering is never a tough task at Balthazar. The menu has not changed - and for good reason - serving up any item you would expect on a menu in the middle of Paris. As I am typically there with a group, we always share several starters. They make one of the best steak tartares I have ever tasted - as good as any I have had in France. This is also the type of restaurant where an oyster platter should be a fixture on the table- it simply goes with the setting. Although basic, the green salad is also great. The sign of a truly authentic French restaurant is through their dressings. That simple vinaigrette always tastes so much lighter and fresher when topped on greens in France. The same is true for Balthazar.

I find it nearly impossible to go to dinner here without ordering the steak frites as my main course. The steak is always perfectly prepared to my medium-rare liking and the fries are exactly how I like them - thin and crisp. You also can't go wrong with their moules frites and the duck confit - all items to be expected at any standard French brasserie. When I last visited Balthazar, they offered a pumpkin ravioli as a special of the night. This seasonal dish was a nice addition to the old standards covering the table. To finish off the night, I recommend ordering a cheese plate and then you really might be confused as to what city you are in.

For the first time in my life (since I started traveling overseas), I am unsure of when my next trip to Paris will be. That is definitely not a comforting feeling, but it is simply a reality. I know work will not be sending me abroad any time soon and, at the same time, I really am trying to cut back in extravagance (at least for the time being). So, Balthazar is as close as it gets to being in my favorite city without having to get on a plane. I do know that I will be able to get back to Paris at some point - hopefully sooner rather than later. But, until then, whenever I need a Paris fix, I will continue to treat myself to Balthazar and enjoy an evening in my faux City of Lights.




Balthazar
80 Spring St
New York, NY 10012-3907
Phone: (212) 965-1414
website

The Smith

"I Love The Smith." The other day, I was sitting with a group of friends, talking about restaurants when The Smith came up in conversation - and that was the direct quote from at least three people at the table. And, to be perfectly honest, I think that just about sums up my experiences there as well. Trying to keep up with all the openings and hot spots in New York, I often find it difficult to make repeat visits to restaurants outside of my neighborhood. However, I have managed to make it to The Smith over four times since their opening less than a year ago - and there is good reason for this. Everything - from the food and the prices to the setting and the staff - is just done right. It doesn't hurt that I know one of the managers there through a friend who used to work in the restaurant industry and so each trip some sort of special service is thrown in for me. But, in all fairness, we barely do know each other - and he still insists on sending over a sample of the special of the night or an after dinner drink. That is just the kind of place that The Smith is.

The restaurant is one large open room with a bar on one end and the sides opening onto Third Avenue. The end of the bar actually also faces onto the streets and serves as a take-out window. If you haven't made a reservation and there are no tables available, the bar is a great place to eat with one other person - offering the same menu and an interesting, specialty cocktail list. When you are seated at a table, they bring out two glass bottles of tap water - clear for still and green for bubbly. I love this idea and am still not certain how they manage to fizz up tap water - but, it seems simple enough since the minute the bottles were emptied, our waiter rushed right over to replenish them. Another great service that they provide is carafes of wine - small, medium, and large - the large being over an entire bottle of wine. This is definitely one of the reasons that the prices are so reasonable. For those of you who are not quite ready to commit to an entire bottle of wine, the medium is perfect. And for others who know that they will end up wanting a bottle and then some, the large is ideal.

While the setting seems very French to me - a large, open brasserie, the menu falls into that ambiguous category of New-American. As frustrating as it can sometimes be to define this type of food, I think it is a wonderful genre - basically embracing traditional American dishes as well as the best of world cuisines - especially French, Italian, and Asian. The Smith does just that. Since I have been so many times, and also been treated to so many supplemental items, I have had a chance to sample a variety of dishes. I actually have so many favorites from both the appetizers and the main dishes that I think it will require most people to take several trips to try them all. Of the appetizers, my favorites are the roasted tomato soup and the mac and cheese. Based off the traditional American soup, the tomato soup actually follows the mold of French onion soup with a cheddar (instead of Swiss) and bread melt forming a crust on top - creating the perfect take on a grilled cheese and tomato soup combination. The other starter that you cannot miss out on is the mac and cheese served in a cast-iron skillet. I actually rarely order mac and cheese, but I am always willing to sample it when people tell me how delicious their dish is. At most restaurants, I am normally never impressed when they attempt to turn this dish into a gourmet item. However, since first sampling The Smith's mac and cheese (it was luckily on the house during my trip), I have not been able to return there without ordering it! If you are in the mood for a lighter appetizer, their string bean salad with tomatoes, ricotta salata, almonds, and dijon is the way to go.

Make sure you are hungry when you go to the Smith because they are not shy with portions and the main courses are equally as filling - but so delicious, it is hard to validate leaving much behind. While there are a variety of great items, my two favorites are the vegetable Bibimbap and the pork chop. This Korean specialty is served in an iron pot with sushi rice, shitake mushrooms, spinach, edamame, and topped with an egg sunny-side up. Since this was one of the few Asian items on the menu, I was hesitant to order it on my first trip there. But, after seeing one arrive to the table next to ours, I knew that I had to return and indulge in my own. This dish is as good or better than the ones I have ordered in Korean restaurants. On a completely different note, the pork chop with apples, chipotle onions, and fennel served over polenta is my other top choice for the entrees. The meat is always juicy and full of flavor - the chipotle giving the dish a really nice kick.

I love that these two dishes are such a contrast to each other. And, that is one of the many aspects that I love about The Smith. No matter what your mood, you will always be able to find something on the menu to suit your liking. They have such a great variety of items, and, at the same time, they are able to successfully create and cook from all ends of the spectrum. I could not say that they specialize in French, Italian, American, or Asian. But, rather, they have expertly covered all grounds. However, for the desserts, they do stick to an American tradition - sundaes only. If you have room for one of them, I highly suggest sharing one for the table - they will surely come out with a cherry on top! I am now just waiting for the I Love The Smith T-shirts to be made - and for my next trip there since I know it is never too far away.

The Smith
55 3rd Ave

New York, NY 10003

Phone (212) 420-9800

website