Bogota

My excitement after discovering an ideal restaurant for groups in New York will never get old. It would be one thing if these sorts of discoveries were a regular occurrence. However, given the number of occasions we all eat out in large groups, they are never as easy to come by as we all would like. I know I just recently preached a similar tale back in the winter as I shared my wonderful group dining experience at Barbossa with you. But, it's true. The options for eating out in large groups that actually leave you in a festive mood are few and far between. And if it always takes me over six months to find another gem, well then, point proven.


Bogota, my latest group dining finding located in Brooklyn's Park Slope, is hardly new to the scene. Open for over five years now, it has been satisfying diners looking for a celebratory atmosphere and authentic Latin cuisine for many years. I will start to blame my full-time residency in Manhattan as the reason it has taken me so long to happen upon this spot. However, there is really no excuse as its constantly packed dining room on even a Monday night indicates Bogota is more than just a neighborhood joint. There are unbeatable specials nearly every night of the week that keep the regulars and attract those from afar.


And no matter the night of the week you end up here, I guarantee it will be hard to pass up on the pitchers of mojitos or other mixed drinks. With a bar full of infused liquors such as jalapeno tequila or black cherry gin, the greatest challenge of the night will be deciding how to satisfy your thirst. No matter your choice, it will pair perfectly with the plantain chips and homemade pico de gallo served at every table. You may also have a hard time deciding on the rest of your meal since the many options are so appealing. Whatever you choose or even as you choose, I highly recommend ordering an empanada sampler. This allows a sampling of four made with either Colombia cornmeal or Argentinian wheat. My favorites of the former was the chicken and potato and of the latter was the beef picadillo with chipotle tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the black bean and feta as well as the goat cheese with queso blanco are excellent options. You will also find other great sharing options in arepas, chips, quesadillas, and patacones sections.


For main courses, options range from large soups and salads to sandwiches and main dishes. Whatever your Latin craving may be, it can certainly be satisfied. I highly recommend the tortilla soup and it is quite a filling option. The soup is made with chicken, spicy chipotle broth, tortilla strips, avocado, sour cream, jack cheese, and cilantro. This hearty dish has the perfect combination of heat and fresh flavors. Depending on your mood, you can choose from beef, pork, poultry, seafood and vegetarian main courses - all to be accompanied by your choice of sides. My favorite is the jalapeno grilled catfish served with jalapeno marinade, fruit salsa, and tartar sauce with the sides of gallo pinto (sauteed black beans, white rice, cilantro, and onions) and vinegar based red cabbage salad. Both paired perfectly with the fish. Although I imagine they would do so next to skirt steak chimichurri, chicken mole, or any other hearty dish served.

It is amazing that one restaurant covers so much ground with one simple kitchen. There is no doubt that here you will find your favorites from both Central and South America and done so quite authentically. Although, I have to admit I am speaking from what I can only imagine to be authentic as I have yet to visit this part of the world. In my imagined Latin culture, I also envision group outings to be more than a regular occurrence. How could they not be in a land with such festive cuisine? In proclaiming such praise for this Brooklyn group dining find, I believe I've found the perfect opportunity for me to verify the authenticity of Bogota's food and setting. Looks like it is time for an adventure to Latin America! Until then, I stand by this recommendation on completely solid ground.





Bogota Latin Bistro
141 Fifth Avenue
(Park Slope) Brooklyn, New York 11217
(718) 230-3805
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tartinery

Although it doesn't sound it, the word tartine can often be quite foreign and confusing for Americans. However, it is simply yet another example of a single French word that encompasses several American ones. While my all time favorite word like this is "flaner" (to wander aimlessly), tartine is right up there with it as it describes an excellent culinary concept - the open-faced sandwich. Leave it to the French to knock off that extra slice of bread, improving both presentation and calorie intake. Is it really still any wonder why French Women Don't Get Fat?


My love of sandwiches and anything French is no secret. And so the opening of Tartinery in Nolita caught my attention immediately. One aspect I liked most was knowing that this restaurant was set up for both lunch AND dinner. Too often my favorite sandwich spots pack up shop around 7 pm and would never dream of selling alcohol. Tartinery, as with most French establishments, encourages both lingering and the consumption of all kinds of wine and beer. While the setting has a more modern, New York feel, the waitstaff transport you immediately back to France. This is the kind of place that will drive many Americans nuts as they simply let you be. It is actually up to you to let your waiter know when you are ready to order - and when you do, it's almost as if you have interrupted them from their own night out. For those of you who have spent any time in France, you are nodding your head right now, remembering this strange sense of service - and hopefully smiling too as you had quickly learned to almost appreciate this idiosyncrasy. For the others, I do warn, this will be a true test of patience.


This kind of service is usually excusable as the food delivered to the table makes it well worth the attitude. However, Tartinery still has some work to do in its kitchen to really transport me back to France. While the sandwiches were indeed all open-faced, the large amount of food placed on top brought me right back to America. They do have a wonderful list of sandwich selections with very interesting flavor combinations, but I really do believe it would serve them well to offer them with French portions. All of the tartines are served on multi-grain or rustic sourdough Poilane (from the famous French boulanger) and accompanied with a house salad. They cut them up into four portions, so I highly recommend sharing several. My favorite was the roast farm chicken topped with homemade herbed mayo, shaved fennel, and olive oil. This was extremely comforting and nicely balanced. I also really enjoyed the goat cheese tartine topped with frisee, honey, olive oil, and fresh thyme. Besides overkill on the frisee, the portions actually were appropriate on this sandwich. I was a little disappointed by the Saint Marcellin cheese tartine with bayonne ham, arugula, and olive oil. It would have worked much better had the cheese not been melted into the sandwich (and, of course, with a little less ham).Be sure to ask about the daily specials since there are few other non-tartine items on the menu. We enjoyed a really nice shrimp risotto that was creamy and actually served in a French portion.

New York really does need more spots like this. Tartinery is a wonderful restaurant for groups as it is affordable, great for sharing, and actually fairly large once you head downstairs. It is just a shame that a French concept has been so Americanized already. While the waiters know exactly which side of the pond they represent, the kitchen still seems to be in the middle of an identity crisis. I am hopeful that as the chic upstairs bar draws in the crowds the French attitude will start to rule in the back as well. And so as the French say, "bon courage!"




Tartinery
209 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 300-5838
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Mermaid Oyster Bar

In recent years, lobster rolls have been the center of attention for seafood delicacies in New York City. And this trend has certainly not died down in the epic, hot summer of 2010. It was just last month that Tasting Table declared Luke's Lobster to be the best roll in town. While these delicious sandwiches definitely succeed in having the ocean meet the city, I can only have one every so often. Lobster will always be my favorite food, but probably because it is not an everyday affair. In the summer, I need and crave seafood - but lobster will only satisfy a portion of those needs. Oysters, on the other hand, could certainly become a more regular habit. I have recently found myself seeking out the best, freshest locations for my new favorite seafood delicacy.

The Mermaid Inn has always been known for it's amazing seafood selection - and actually, their lobster roll. Don't get me wrong, theirs continue to be delicious and one of my first stops for the famous sandwich. But, it's Mermaid Oyster Bar that recently opened in the west village that has now caught my attention. I have always been a fan of anything Mermaid Inn and hearing about the focal point of their new spot had me at oyster. Minus the outdoor space, the setting is similar (although smaller) to its other locations - a whitewashed, wooden interior creating a laid-back atmosphere. I have a feeling no matter the time of year you are sitting in here, you will actually always feel some sense of summer.

And their selection of raw oysters from both coasts is perfect for someone like me - a medium sized list with actual descriptions of the oysters. As much as I could try to pretend like I have already become an oyster connaisseur, I won't even begin. I do know it when I like them - and the ones at Mermaid Oyster Bar were all entirely fresh and delicious. I am a big fan of the Fanny Bays from Vancouver, described as "plump with cucumbery sweetness." Also from the west coast, the Kumamotos, "melony-sweet, plump, creamy," were so full of flavor that I didn't even touch the mignonette sauce. The crisp, refreshing Pemaquids from Maine, "bois salinity, icy waters," truly tasted as though they had just come out of the water. When oysters are this good, I have a hard time not ordering them in all shapes and forms. We also inhaled a delicious plate of fried oysters on a bed of sauteed spinach served with tartar sauce.

For another extremely refreshing dish, I highly recommend the local fluke ceviche. The fish is marinated in ground chilis, ginger, and a 3 crab sauce. The flavors are excellent and between the heat and spices, create an extremely cleansing feeling on a hot mid-summer evening. I also had to try their fish tacos as I had not seen this option previously on a regular Mermaid Inn menu (although I am now certain they are a special on Tuesday nights in the east village). Three tacos are served with tilapia, cabbage, pico de gallo, and crema. They actually remind me of my favorite fish taco recipe that I have made twice in the last month - and that is definitely a great thing since I have only been able to make them when in easy access to a grill. A side of the cole slaw was a perfect complement to the tacos and the rest of the seafood. I cannot seem to ever get enough slaw in the summertime either - especially when it is prepared with the right balance of vinegar and mayonnaise as done here.

It is always a comfort when the new locations of your old favorites hold to their very own style and traditions. And, as with true Mermaid Inn tradition, the Oyster Bar offers no dessert menu. Never fear, sweet-toothers! Without even asking or paying, a mini pot de chocolat with homemade whipped cream will arrive at your place along with a fortune teller miracle fish. I'm not sure which complimentary gift excites me more! However, on my outing to Mermaid Oyster Bar last week, I was sure that oysters and delicious seafood bring out the passion in me - a little red fish told me so.

Mermaid Oyster Bar

79 MacDougal Street

New York, New York 10012

(212) 260-0100

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Recette

I have recently realized that after investing as much energy and thought into restaurants as I do, I often regard them in the same light as I do people. If I didn't have as many amazing friends as I do, this might be a little sad. Thankfully, I am not lacking in that department! While friendships have always been top priority for me, I actually feel like I have had to make room for my relationships with restaurants. There are some that take warming up to, some that I immediately know I can do without, and then there are those others that sweep me right off of my feet. It's an instant connection - where I feel like they get me almost as much as I get them. A recent night at Recette reminded me of this great feeling and thus began my latest West Village friendship.

I have walked by this charming space on Greenwich and 12th street for years. Each time I would pass by, I would stop and stare at the empty tables inside, its mediocre menu outside only verifying my disappointment. And each time, I would secretly hope for the day when a new restaurant would take over - knowing that day was not too far away. The location and adorable space was just too good to go to waste. And with the recent opening of Recette, I may have gotten my wish and more. It is already a challenge to secure a spot at one of the few coveted tables at this New American gem. While the concept is based around small, sharing plates, many of the dishes are quite substantial. All are simple, yet elegant at the same time - an extremely appealing combination. And that rings true for food as well as a friendship. As I said, I am sold!

I highly recommend starting with the salt cod fritters. These are served with a lamb sausage ragu and a curry aioli. The meat ragu is the perfect flavor pairing with the crispy fish, creating a decadent starter. The wild arugula salad is an excellent lighter option. It is served with kumquats, mint, lemon, hazelnuts, and ricotta salata cheese. I can never get enough of arugula especially when it is topped with such unique ingredients. This was one of the dishes where I honestly felt like the chef knew me. It was as if he picked out everything that would suit me and put it into one salad without even having to ask.

For entree-like dishes, I highly recommend the Berkshire pork belly served with rock shrimp, baby turnips, romesco, and sherry caramel. The pork was the perfect texture and consistency. The one dish that fell short was the roasted foie gras served with fig jam. This had the makings of great flavor combinations, but unlike the pork, the texture was off. The highlight of the night, on the other hand, was the halibut served with morel mushrooms, baby artichokes, and asparagus in a saffron beurre blanc. With the use of so many of my favorite spring vegetables, this dish was the epitome of Recette's unique, simple elegance. But, it was the dessert that truly set me over the edge, leading me to declare my new best friend in a place. The ice cream club sandwich is served with cinnamon ice cream, rhubarb gelee, and bacon bark. Cinnamon ice cream AND bacon (chocolate bark shavings). I repeat: cinnamon ice cream and bacon! Most of you probably already know about my love affair with bacon, but most of you probably do not know that my all-time favorite ice cream flavor is cinnamon. Need I say more? Recette, you truly are a great new friend.





Recette
328 W. 12th Street (at Greenwich St.)
New York, NY 10014
(212) 414-3000
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Mercadito

I'm already starting to get nervous for the NYC summer ahead. It's May 3rd and it's officially H-O-T. This is the time of year when I am usually itching for consistently warm days - and more often than not, they are few and far between. And sure, just a week ago, I was piling on the scarves and sweaters. But the thunderstorms and humid weather of recent days have all too quickly erased the few chilly memories of April 2010. What ever happened to spring? There is no question that we are in for a hot one this summer. In fact, we may even want to reconsider Memorial Weekend from proclaiming the start of bikini season. With Cinco de Mayo just a few days away, I'm ready to declare this festive holiday as the official kick-off for Summer 2010. Some may call it jumping the gun - I'm just validating breaking out the white pants, turning on the air conditioners full-time, and acting like it's summer break.

Whether or not you are ready to call it summer, there is no reason to wait until the end of the month for your next celebration. And Mercadito makes it even easier to get festive this Cinco de Mayo. It's as if they knew weeks ago that this year would be one of the hottest as they planned for this year's holiday and created the Vato Loco - The Hottest Drink on Earth. On Wednesday only, they will be serving their secret recipe cocktail using tequila, fire, and spice. Intrigued yet? To find out what this delicious (confirmed by yours truly) combination is really made of and how tough you really are, head straight for their bar. I was quickly reminded that heat can be a really good thing. The mandatory release form should only entice you more, guaranteeing a once in a lifetime tasting experience as "drinking the 'Hottest Drink on Earth' will instantly make me cooler than anyone who has not tried it and I will thus be able to gloat that I am more manly (or womanly) than anyone else." This is certainly a challenge for all spice-lovers or just anyone with even a hint of a competitive edge.

While the Vato Loco is without a doubt a reason to head over to any of the Mercaditos on Wednesday, their food and excellent list of more traditional tequila drinks will keep you there late into the night this Cinco de Mayo and throughout the rest of the year. The menu offers some of the most authentic Mexican cuisine in New York City while still showcasing their creative energy evident in this week's drink special. When ordering guacamole (which is always a must), you will be served a sampling of three - tradicional, mango, and pina. The fresh mango combination has an excellent smoked flavor as it is made with chipotle, pico de gallo, and jicama. The use of serrano chiles in the tradicional guacamole brings the right amount of temperature to the table - Vato Loco or not. And the pineapple option is just an added bonus.


A combination of ceviches and tacos creates the perfect sized meal following this unique trio. These dishes are all extremely fresh and surprisingly light - reminding me of the food I always rave about when in Mexico. I highly recommend the red snapper ceviche made with watermelon, pico de gallo, and serrano chile as well as the shrimp with pico de gallo, tangerine, roasted jalapeno, and citrus broth. The use of fruit with the seafood is wonderfully refreshing. The tacos, prepared with mini homemade corn tortillas and served four to a plate, should be shared so that a variety can be sampled. My favorites are the coca cola braised pork carnitas served with cured onion, chile de arbol coleslaw and toasted peanuts for a meat option and the beer battered mahi mahi with Mexican style coleslaw and chipotle aoli for a seafood option. They are so full of all of the right Mexican flavors.

No matter what you order and when you are at Mercadito, the chef and bartenders make sure that there is more than a little spice in your life. And this Wednesday, they are truly embracing their love for this stamp of authenticity and taking it to a new, uncharted level. Are you ready for the Vato Loco? Life is always more interesting when things get spicy. Happy Cinco de Mayo, Happy Summer, and Happy Heat!



Mercadito
179 Avenue B (11th and 12th sts)
New York, NY 10009
(212) 529-6490
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Faustina

Hotel restaurants are in a category of their own. Before heading out to one and especially once stepping inside one, you are often too aware that you are dining within a hotel. And, I'm not really sure that is always a good thing. I do love hotel bars - treating myself to that overpriced martini or two every once in awhile. It's really a small price to pay to spend an hour or two in a temporary lap of luxury. But the restaurants within can certainly be hit or miss - and usually it's the quality of the food, not the setting, that taints the experience. For this very reason, hotel restaurants come and go. It's not until the culinary expertise equates these grand settings that we actually recognize a keeper. However, I have recently realized that striking a balance between the setting and the kitchen can often be the true challenge.

The young Cooper Square Hotel is no stranger to this very struggle for hotel restaurants. After a quick appearance as Table 8, the restaurant within has been transformed into Faustina. And by transformed, I mean, the kitchen has been taken over by the successful chef Scott Conant of Scarpetta. This was certainly a wise move for our stomachs, but I fear that the warm spirit of the kitchen has not quite made it's way out into the pre-established dining room. They have certainly succeeded in taking over the menu, but the disconnect with the sterile setting is all too apparent. This could be the rare case of the hotel restaurant where it is actually the food outshining the space that leads to yet another change in hands. For the sake of my culinary enjoyment, I really hope this isn't the case.

The front bar room of Faustina is definitely the place to be. If this were the model for the rest of the restaurant, my fears would be completely subsided. This entry room is the best of both worlds where the culinary expertise has blended with a chic, modern hotel atmosphere. And since you can order nearly the entire menu up front, I'd highly encourage that you do so. Faustina's menu ranges from breads and olives, cheese and meats, raw bar, appetizers, pastas, mains, and sides. What more could you ask for out of an Italian powerhouse? With such an extensive menu, I highly recommend going with as many diners as possible (aka trying as many items as a stomach can handle). The grilled ciabatta with poached duck egg and fonduta is a must. Believe it or not, this is actually not as overly rich as I had expected. So, whether you are using your own spoon or sopping up the remains with additional olive oil brushed ciabatta, there shouldn't be anything left in the bottom of this dish. I also loved the combination of flavors in the lardo wrapped prawns served over rosemary lentils. I seriously could have ordered almost every starter from the menu, but to narrow it down, I also highly recommend sharing the short ribs of beef served with spaetzle and horseradish. The meat was prepared perfectly, falling right off the bone.

If sharing a pasta, the kitchen kindly splits the dish into two separate bowls - a gesture that I have grown to appreciate. It is almost as if they anticipate how difficult it is for two diners to truly share such a delicious dish. And this was definitely the case for us. I recommend the strozzapreti with suckling pig ragu. These elongated hand-rolled tube pasta, are al dente and topped with a rich tomato based pork ragu. The duck breast with asparagus, black trumpets and fennel spice is an excellent option to continue the sharing until the end. The use of fennel with the duck was truly striking. To round out this feast or any combination of dishes that you order, I urge you to try the truffled cabbage. Truffled anything is hard to top, but I love the way that cabbage embraces flavors and this is the perfect way to showcase truffles.

So your mouth is probably watering now after reading about all of these delicious dishes. And mine was certainly too as I was deciding my meal at the Cooper Hotel. But, even after such a satisfying meal, I didn't experience that sense of excitement that I usually feel when I am desperate to get to my computer and spread the word. I couldn't help but have my culinary satisfaction overpowered by the dissatisfaction with the atmosphere in the dining room. Part of me had wished we had just stayed up front and eaten at one of the many tables in the bar. And part of me just wished Faustina had taken a moment to breath - a moment to take the concept in the kitchen out to the actual dining room. I'm convinced it's not necessarily too late to do this. But in the meantime, head for the tables in the bar room. Order that fancy cocktail and take advantage of an expert hotel kitchen - as we all know, these are certainly few and far between.

Faustina (at the Cooper Square Hotel)

25 Cooper Square

New York, NY 10003

website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):