Marea

Even though ABC Kitchen was where I spent my last Friday night as a New Yorker, I still had about 5 more nights before officially moving out. And after my incredible experience based off of the newest James Beard recognition, I decided there was still enough time to make it to the previous year's winner of that very award. Marea had too been on my list for quite some time, but more for reasons of cost than availability had I not been able to stop by. Well, with just a few nights left as New Yorker, issues of cost and the need to save such restaurants for a special occasion easily go by the wayside. And so, my last Tuesday night in New York with my family was more than enough of a reason to finally dine out at Marea.


Marea is located on Central Park South and the interior certainly lives up to its address. As you walk in, you are greeted by a swanky bar on the left - one that if I had ever worked in midtown, I would have hoped I could have visited for special occasion drinks. To the right you will find the elegant dining room which is certainly more formal than most restaurants I frequent, however, it was still extremely welcoming and warm. Every now and then, I really love that feeling of walking into a place where I know I would never stop by every day - the kind of place where I need to dress up, where an amuse bouche or two are guaranteed, and where chargers are waiting for me on the table. The minute we sat down at our table, I knew I was in great hands for the night ahead.


Marea's Italian menu brings together two of my favorite culinary treats - fresh seafood and homemade pasta. However, be prepared to be slightly overwhelmed by this excellent combination as the options available are nearly endless. We didn't even touch the crudo (sliced raw fish and shellfish) section of the menu which takes up almost a full page - and all of those dishes were extremely enticing. The problem was that the antipasti were just too appealing to pass up as we all opted for those for our starters. The special of the evening was a delicately prepared soft shell crab served over radicchio, immediately capturing the attention of several members of our table who eventually finished every morsel on their plates. My weakness has always been lobster and more recently it has been burrata. I can hardly ever ignore this glorious cheese on a menu (and even now in the supermarkets). So you can imagine how quickly I jumped at the Nova Scotia lobster starter prepared with burrata, eggplant, mushrooms, and basil. What could have been an overwhelmingly rich dish was perfectly prepared so that each and every ingredient had a place on the plate. And while it screamed richness on paper, even upon clearing my plate, I was ready to take on my next course.

We all again opted from the same next section of the menu completely ignoring the meat and fish options. But, with the pasta, we all seemed to get the best of both worlds - some sort of homemade pasta topped with some sort of fresh fish. Every one was so pleased with their own dish that we barely felt the need to share or even try one another's. While I was impartial to my spaghetti with seppia, squid ink, and pecorino, I also highly recommend the orecchiette with ruby red shrimp chilies and rosemary. Had I not already started with incredible lobster, I would have immediately fallen for the tagliatelle with Nova Scotia lobster, tarragon, and coral. A heavier and extremely flavorful dish is the fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow which was actually perfect on the oddly cold May evening that we were there.

Even though I was visiting Marea for what I had deemed as a special occasion, I cannot imagine dining there and not feeling like it was a special occasion. It's cuisine, setting, and service truly make it a special place. And so it's rare that I see three large desserts end up on my table after a meal. That alone signals something special. We were all so intrigued by so many of the dishes that we decided to go all out - and we had absolutely no regrets. Desserts at Marea are a must - and by desserts I mean multiple ones. We ordered the white chocolate honey mousse served with pine nut, grapefruit gelato topped with basil as well as the hazelnut torte topped with dark chocolate and lemon gelato topped with mint, and finally the fried doughnut holes with lemon cream and prickly pear sorbet. Again, it was nearly impossible to decide which was best. And if that's your biggest problem, trying to decide which dish was best throughout the night, you know you have found a special spot.


Marea
240 Central Park South
New York, New York 10019
(212) 582-5100
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Mermaid Oyster Bar

In recent years, lobster rolls have been the center of attention for seafood delicacies in New York City. And this trend has certainly not died down in the epic, hot summer of 2010. It was just last month that Tasting Table declared Luke's Lobster to be the best roll in town. While these delicious sandwiches definitely succeed in having the ocean meet the city, I can only have one every so often. Lobster will always be my favorite food, but probably because it is not an everyday affair. In the summer, I need and crave seafood - but lobster will only satisfy a portion of those needs. Oysters, on the other hand, could certainly become a more regular habit. I have recently found myself seeking out the best, freshest locations for my new favorite seafood delicacy.

The Mermaid Inn has always been known for it's amazing seafood selection - and actually, their lobster roll. Don't get me wrong, theirs continue to be delicious and one of my first stops for the famous sandwich. But, it's Mermaid Oyster Bar that recently opened in the west village that has now caught my attention. I have always been a fan of anything Mermaid Inn and hearing about the focal point of their new spot had me at oyster. Minus the outdoor space, the setting is similar (although smaller) to its other locations - a whitewashed, wooden interior creating a laid-back atmosphere. I have a feeling no matter the time of year you are sitting in here, you will actually always feel some sense of summer.

And their selection of raw oysters from both coasts is perfect for someone like me - a medium sized list with actual descriptions of the oysters. As much as I could try to pretend like I have already become an oyster connaisseur, I won't even begin. I do know it when I like them - and the ones at Mermaid Oyster Bar were all entirely fresh and delicious. I am a big fan of the Fanny Bays from Vancouver, described as "plump with cucumbery sweetness." Also from the west coast, the Kumamotos, "melony-sweet, plump, creamy," were so full of flavor that I didn't even touch the mignonette sauce. The crisp, refreshing Pemaquids from Maine, "bois salinity, icy waters," truly tasted as though they had just come out of the water. When oysters are this good, I have a hard time not ordering them in all shapes and forms. We also inhaled a delicious plate of fried oysters on a bed of sauteed spinach served with tartar sauce.

For another extremely refreshing dish, I highly recommend the local fluke ceviche. The fish is marinated in ground chilis, ginger, and a 3 crab sauce. The flavors are excellent and between the heat and spices, create an extremely cleansing feeling on a hot mid-summer evening. I also had to try their fish tacos as I had not seen this option previously on a regular Mermaid Inn menu (although I am now certain they are a special on Tuesday nights in the east village). Three tacos are served with tilapia, cabbage, pico de gallo, and crema. They actually remind me of my favorite fish taco recipe that I have made twice in the last month - and that is definitely a great thing since I have only been able to make them when in easy access to a grill. A side of the cole slaw was a perfect complement to the tacos and the rest of the seafood. I cannot seem to ever get enough slaw in the summertime either - especially when it is prepared with the right balance of vinegar and mayonnaise as done here.

It is always a comfort when the new locations of your old favorites hold to their very own style and traditions. And, as with true Mermaid Inn tradition, the Oyster Bar offers no dessert menu. Never fear, sweet-toothers! Without even asking or paying, a mini pot de chocolat with homemade whipped cream will arrive at your place along with a fortune teller miracle fish. I'm not sure which complimentary gift excites me more! However, on my outing to Mermaid Oyster Bar last week, I was sure that oysters and delicious seafood bring out the passion in me - a little red fish told me so.

Mermaid Oyster Bar

79 MacDougal Street

New York, New York 10012

(212) 260-0100

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

A Day in Big Sur

Hi. I'm here! Well, mostly - here meaning, in California. Apologies to all as this has probably been the longest stretch I've had on The Hungry Roach without sharing my adventures with you. Summer is one of those bittersweet times in New York City. It's the time of year that the city simply clears out as most offices embrace some sort of summer hours policy or, if not, the heat is enough to drive you right out. So, here I sit - in cool, southern California, bracing for tonight's red-eye only to drop me off right in the middle of a typical, New York City summer heatwave. But, in all honesty, that's the fun of living in New York. The city keeps you on your toes, so much so that you just might be forced to get out and explore. And this summer, I have definitely taken advantage of escaping the heat.


One of my latest summer excursions landed me in Big Sur, California - en route from San Diego to San Francisco. I could have easily spent a week in this area, but we were only given one day to cover the grounds. But, let me tell you, we made the most of it. When Big Sur comes to mind, most people think of breathtaking views and amazing hikes. I would like to add "leading to food" at the end of the latter. One day in the Big Sur turned into taking in the landscape, sun, and delicious food. Our journey took us from the south in Morro Bay to an end destination of Carmel. Since there is only about 120 miles of road to cover in that stretch, the day actually never felt too rushed.


I'll let you find your own mini-hikes since those are certainly countless, and I am not going to begin to act as if they are my specialty. What you can start mapping out and basing them around, however, are the food destinations. If you only have one day in Big Sur, get ready to spread out your meals across several destinations. It will certainly be worth every stop as each one will make you gasp - and I mean from the views AND food. When heading north, Lucia Lodge is the perfect first stop after a short hike for lunch #1. The rustic lodge is on the west side of the highway with dining set up so that you are literally eating in the middle of a dramatic seaside cliff. The deck is a must as you can actually dine along the edge and face out as if you are sitting at a bar. I recommend sharing one order of the fish and chips served with malt vinegar and tartar sauce. The order is delicious and huge. And, if you order only one, it will be easier to convince yourself to head to lunch destination #2 in just a couple of hours.


After sneaking in another hike (I promise not to judge how far you go), you will be ready for another feeding in the northern end of Big Sur. And Nepenthe is the perfect next stop to truly take in the region's culture. This is the ultimate hippy destination that still draws crowds of all ages and all types. No matter what time of day you arrive, be prepared for a wait (which is never a bad thing when you have already eaten fish and chips and are staring into the ocean). Whether you are sitting on the exterior deck, the steps with cushions, or by the fire pits, your dining experience will be overlooking the Pacific in the middle of the mountains. The burgers are a must - and another great item to order just one of for two people. This will surely complete the lunch portion of your day.


But, feel free to linger, listening to music or checking out local artisans in order to digest, as just up the road, The Ventana Inn and Spa awaits. You can also pretend to take another mini-hike or just call it cocktail hour and head right up. While I will continue to dream of staying there, I did manage to make myself right at home on their back deck with a cheese plate and glass of wine. Even though the inn is located on the east side of the highway, the view makes you feel as if you are at sea. It is truly the ultimate escape. The full restaurant menu offers an excellent selection of California cuisine. Although, in all honesty, I recommend finding any way possible to claim one of their outside couches on the patio, grabbing a newspaper, and not moving for awhile. Before leaving, it took me a minute to remind myself I wasn't staying there. It was the perfect, relaxing end to what most should consider a packed, active day.


Hopefully, you still have some summer vacations lined up - taking you to cooler, dryer spots - allowing a nice balance of exploration and relaxation. And while the additional thirty-five degrees ahead of me sounds daunting, especially in my cozy fifth floor village apartment, I am trying to think of the good news ahead of me. As the city clears out, the chances of getting into some of the hottest spots gets easier. So, get ready for some NYC posts ahead. See you in the hot city!

Packie's Food and Wine

Happy St. Patty's Day! I know, I know, I'm a day late. But, admit it - you had so much fun celebrating yesterday that you were actually wishing you could prolong the day. Hopefully, this will help. And after finally making my first trip to the Emerald Isle this winter, I feel even more compelled to celebrate and praise the Irish for as many days as possible. If I could find a reason to talk about Ireland every day, I really would. I just can't believe it took me 29 years to discover the place! I had always been eager to wander the lush, green landscape and enjoy a few pints with the locals. But, in all honesty, I had never imagined the food would be anything to write home about. When was the last time I raved about a meal at an Irish restaurant?

I really I had no right asking that question having never visited Ireland. And, had I been there before, my answer most certainly would have been: "In Ireland!" I am not only writing home about their food, but I am praising them for it. I think the Irish have it figured out - they have kept the best of their cuisine confined to their own little island - fooling us all into thinking they couldn't see past meat and potatoes. Of course you will find both meat and potatoes on nearly every menu; but, they certainly know how to turn them into so much more - making me think twice whenever I now walk by an Irish pub in New York. Although, I know better than to stop and see if it can compare. To truly taste Ireland, you've got to get to Ireland.


My preconceived images of gorgeous landscapes and friendly Irishmen do not even begin to do them justice. Everything is just that much greener and that much jollier in person. And that is exactly how I feel about their cuisine, especially after dining at Packie's Food and Wine in Kenmare. Located in the southwest of the country, this picturesque town is situated on the Kenmare Bay, in County Kerry linking the Iveragh and the Beara Peninsulas. For nearly two decades, this tiny restaurant has taken all the concepts that Americans love and produced some of the freshest, gourmet dishes ready to take on any fine dining scene. With a focus on organic produce and fresh seafood, Packie's offers a menu that still has an Irish stamp on it. A basket of their brown bread, one of my favorite culinary discoveries during the trip, greeted us at the start of the meal. Wherever I went, I could not get enough of this national delicacy. At Packie's, I was careful to save room for our meal since the romantic, cozy setting alone had convinced me that I was in for a real treat.

We started the meal with potato pancakes and mussels in a garlic, white wine sauce. The potato pancakes were out of this world - a dish that is usually just so simple and mediocre, actually blew me away as they were full of flavor (most likely butter), while perfectly crisp. It takes a great deal for potatoes (besides French fries) to get me this excited. The mussels were, in their own way, equally as exciting. They were extremely fresh and infused with garlic. I soon realized that the Irish are not afraid of garlic - another sign that I was destined to discover and love Irish cuisine. For main courses, I highly recommend the roast rack of lamb with rosemary, red currant sauce and lentils. This is a simple, yet elegant preparation. The monkfish has been on the menu for years - and for good reason. It is roasted with a garlic and ginger crust and served with a thai dipping sauce. All dishes are offered with sides. The colcannon, an Irish specialty of mashed potatoes with cabbage and bacon, gave me reason number two to love the Irish handiwork with potatoes that night. And really, isn't everything better with bacon? For a lighter option, go with the simple green salad tossed with a light vinaigrette. It reminded me of being in a French bistro where the side salads are served with little dressing, yet just enough to fully appreciate such a simple vegetable.

While Packie's was certainly a night of fine dining in Ireland, I can easily declare that the food throughout the rest of my journey continued to impress me. Whether I was enjoying a "toasted special" - ham, tomato, and cheese toasted sandwich- or a seafood stew at a casual pub, the culinary talent was right up my alley. I'll take both shabby and chic, as long as the flavors are right on. And, I really do think the Irish are wise. Some may view it as keeping the best to themselves, while I like to think they are just perfecting their ability to host. The Irish are truly some of the most hospitable people I have encountered - so long as you head to their little gem of an island!

Packie's Food and Wine

Henry Street

Kenmare, County Kerry

Ireland

website

FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Choptank

I still haven't gotten over the closing of The John Dory. It was just about a year ago that I was raving about this new, hopping seafood spot. Maybe I jumped the gun in thinking that a nautical themed restaurant could actually last more than a few months outside of Times Square. I still stand by its excellent cuisine as apparently it was the location that determined the restaurant's fate. Upon the end of the summer closing, owners April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman quickly claimed to be reopening as soon as they found the right neighborhood setting. A few months ago I was ready to tell them to hurry on up! However, the former owner of Dell'Anima and L'Artusi has already beaten them to the punch and opened up Choptank, the newest seafood hotspot on prime West Village real estate - all the while offering prices that are even more right.

And this seafood restaurant rings even closer to my heart as it is inspired by the cuisine of the Chesapeake Bay, home to the blue crab and some of my fondest childhood memories. Note: order up the crab! With both an eat-in bar up front and an oyster bar in the middle of the restaurant, Choptank offers all kinds of drinking and dining options. However, the complimentary old bay chips and crab dip offered upon table dining should be motivation to settle in for more than a drink. These homemade chips alone are delicious- perfectly crispy with a dusting of old bay. And the crab dip is made with fresh chunks of crab meat and mixed with just the right amount of mayo.

The menu is divided into raw bar, nibbles, starters, steam pot, seafood, and meat sections - all excellent for sharing. I was lucky enough to share the evening with Kristin of The Pearl Onion. In case you hadn't noticed already, these beautiful, standout photographs are compliments of her! I recommend starting with the roasted wild mushrooms with warm egg yolk as one of the few non-seafood options. But, it's really the perfectly tender braised octopus with paprika, potatoes and arugula that stands out. And, as tempted as I was to try either the fried chicken or other meat options, it was really the seafood that I went for during the rest of the meal - and I have no regrets doing so. Although they sound quite standard, the littleneck clams served in a garlic butter and herb sauce with country toast is a must. I highly advise ordering extra bread to soak up this sauce as it is a butter-lover's heaven. And as soon as the soft, warm bread came out, I knew it was a great sign for the fried oyster po' boy ahead. The traditional sandwich certainly lived up to its expectations and more as it was served with pickle slaw, ranch dressing, and tobacco onions. I cannot seem to get the combination of flavors with the slaw, in particular, out of my mind. But, the signature dish that should really not be missed is the jumbo lump crab cake served with haricot verts, salad, and saltines (yes, the most comforting, basic cracker in the cupboard). I almost always hesitate to order crab cake when I dine out since nine times out of ten the dish is overly breaded and fried leaving me longing for my mother's recipe. However, her Maryland based recipe uses saltines - what I now realize to be an award-winning ingredient!


Since I can already call the crab cake an old favorite, I definitely see myself spending many winter evenings ahead at Choptank. And as soon as the days start heating up (which sadly according to the Groundhog will not be for awhile), this spot will so easily transition to satisfy those summer seafood cravings. I have long been searching for the NYC restaurant with paper tablecloths and peel and eat 'em shrimp on the menu. It's hard to believe that it has finally arrived and just a few blocks from where I live. And despite my recent track record with seafood spots, I have no hesitations in claiming Choptank as a keeper.




Choptank
308 Bleecker St.
New York, NY 10014
(212) 675-2009
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):