A Day in Big Sur

Hi. I'm here! Well, mostly - here meaning, in California. Apologies to all as this has probably been the longest stretch I've had on The Hungry Roach without sharing my adventures with you. Summer is one of those bittersweet times in New York City. It's the time of year that the city simply clears out as most offices embrace some sort of summer hours policy or, if not, the heat is enough to drive you right out. So, here I sit - in cool, southern California, bracing for tonight's red-eye only to drop me off right in the middle of a typical, New York City summer heatwave. But, in all honesty, that's the fun of living in New York. The city keeps you on your toes, so much so that you just might be forced to get out and explore. And this summer, I have definitely taken advantage of escaping the heat.


One of my latest summer excursions landed me in Big Sur, California - en route from San Diego to San Francisco. I could have easily spent a week in this area, but we were only given one day to cover the grounds. But, let me tell you, we made the most of it. When Big Sur comes to mind, most people think of breathtaking views and amazing hikes. I would like to add "leading to food" at the end of the latter. One day in the Big Sur turned into taking in the landscape, sun, and delicious food. Our journey took us from the south in Morro Bay to an end destination of Carmel. Since there is only about 120 miles of road to cover in that stretch, the day actually never felt too rushed.


I'll let you find your own mini-hikes since those are certainly countless, and I am not going to begin to act as if they are my specialty. What you can start mapping out and basing them around, however, are the food destinations. If you only have one day in Big Sur, get ready to spread out your meals across several destinations. It will certainly be worth every stop as each one will make you gasp - and I mean from the views AND food. When heading north, Lucia Lodge is the perfect first stop after a short hike for lunch #1. The rustic lodge is on the west side of the highway with dining set up so that you are literally eating in the middle of a dramatic seaside cliff. The deck is a must as you can actually dine along the edge and face out as if you are sitting at a bar. I recommend sharing one order of the fish and chips served with malt vinegar and tartar sauce. The order is delicious and huge. And, if you order only one, it will be easier to convince yourself to head to lunch destination #2 in just a couple of hours.


After sneaking in another hike (I promise not to judge how far you go), you will be ready for another feeding in the northern end of Big Sur. And Nepenthe is the perfect next stop to truly take in the region's culture. This is the ultimate hippy destination that still draws crowds of all ages and all types. No matter what time of day you arrive, be prepared for a wait (which is never a bad thing when you have already eaten fish and chips and are staring into the ocean). Whether you are sitting on the exterior deck, the steps with cushions, or by the fire pits, your dining experience will be overlooking the Pacific in the middle of the mountains. The burgers are a must - and another great item to order just one of for two people. This will surely complete the lunch portion of your day.


But, feel free to linger, listening to music or checking out local artisans in order to digest, as just up the road, The Ventana Inn and Spa awaits. You can also pretend to take another mini-hike or just call it cocktail hour and head right up. While I will continue to dream of staying there, I did manage to make myself right at home on their back deck with a cheese plate and glass of wine. Even though the inn is located on the east side of the highway, the view makes you feel as if you are at sea. It is truly the ultimate escape. The full restaurant menu offers an excellent selection of California cuisine. Although, in all honesty, I recommend finding any way possible to claim one of their outside couches on the patio, grabbing a newspaper, and not moving for awhile. Before leaving, it took me a minute to remind myself I wasn't staying there. It was the perfect, relaxing end to what most should consider a packed, active day.


Hopefully, you still have some summer vacations lined up - taking you to cooler, dryer spots - allowing a nice balance of exploration and relaxation. And while the additional thirty-five degrees ahead of me sounds daunting, especially in my cozy fifth floor village apartment, I am trying to think of the good news ahead of me. As the city clears out, the chances of getting into some of the hottest spots gets easier. So, get ready for some NYC posts ahead. See you in the hot city!

Havens of Happiness: Part 3 - Paris

In no way am I going to pretend like I'm the only one whose happy place is Paris. No matter how many times I visit (or even live in) that city, I just can't get over it! Whether it's the food, the shopping, the scenery, the history, I really cannot get enough and I know I am not the first to feel this way. Basically to quote my mother, "I could eat or wear almost everything I see in this city." Does it get any better than that? Paris is truly the ultimate happy place. Each time I arrive in the city and catch my first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur or even the Louvre (yes, the cliche monuments I cannot deny), I still get chills. On my latest trip, it was more than a treat experiencing that feeling through the eyes of my new brother-in-law who stepped on Parisian soil for the very first time. I know he is a keeper since there was no hiding his new found love for my very favorite city. Either that or he is an amazing actor. And, either way, he survived the trip with 3 southern ladies professing their love for the city over and over again. Yup, he's a keeper.

Paris is where I truly discovered fine dining and gourmet food. In New York, you'll find a Duane Reede, Chase Bank, or Starbucks on nearly every block. In Paris, there is a boulangerie, patisserie, or cafe on every street. From the minute I set foot there, I knew I had signed up for the right language. The best part is that each and every establishment is always packed full of patrons enjoying life - drinking wine or coffee and smiling - secretly knowing they have landed a spot in the food capital of the world. It's actually overwhelming for me to think about where to begin telling you about the joys of food in Paris. But, in all honesty, my last trip to Paris was overwhelming in itself as I had to pack in all my favorites within just two days. Don't worry, I managed to wear myself down running all over the city, but was always able to charge back up with a replenishing - either through a meal or my afternoon pick-me-ups.

I'll start with the pick-me-ups, aka desserts on the fly. Now, based on the smell alone, it is tempting to stop in each and every patisserie or chocolatier that you pass by. However, I urge you to be selective - you actually can be in a city with endless options! If you find yourself exhausted from shopping at the boutiques in St. Germain or on the chic Faubourg St. Honore, you are in luck. Pierre Herme has locations now on both banks. Stop in here for the ultimate macaroon. This traditional French pastry often surprises most Americans who think macaroons are almond cookies available in the US. Believe me, you will know a French macaroon when you see one and these brightly colored treats are nearly impossible to come by on this side of the Atlantic. I urge you to try as many flavors as possible since they are constantly changing at Pierre Herme. However, the passion fruit with chocolate filling is a staple, and my favorite. Since I was there for two whole days, I was able to make two different trips. And, on the second visit, in addition to the macaroons, we tried their new sorbet and ice cream combination. These are excellent "to-go" treats as they are already packed in containers and are offered in very unique flavors - ours was cream cheese ice cream with passion fruit sorbet packed with caramelized nuts. But, the best ice cream and sorbet in the city, is without question Berthillon. While many of the cafes offer an assortment of their flavors, it is on the Ile-St-Louis where you will find the best price and best choices. My absolute favorite is the cinnamon ice cream (you can actually taste the cinnamon crystals) and I have yet to discover that flavor in any cafe. You will notice the small portions are no reflection of the intense flavors. I honestly believe Berthillon can beat out any American ice cream or gelato any day.


You probably don't need to be told that croque-monsieurs, quiches, and Parisian salads (ham, egg, tomatoes, emmental, etc.) are far better in Paris than anything you will find in the States. And, it never ceases to amaze me how a croissant or baguette from almost any boulangerie in Paris will always top our creations. So, I will shed some light on a couple of restaurants worth checking out. I love the brasseries. And, with only two nights in Paris, there was no question in my mind as to whether or not I would stop by my very favorite one - Chez Fernand. Located on Rue Guisarde in the 6th arrondissement, this is the epitome of French brasserie dining. Their smaller counterpart, Pet't Fernand, only a few streets away on Rue Lobineau, offers the same, affordable menu in a smaller, quainter setting. I prefer the original for larger groups and the small for a date - but, in culinary speaking, you cannot go wrong with either. At both restaurants, you will find the traditional French dishes you always read about, prepared to perfection. The haricots verts are true to their name - finer and more flavorful than the American version. It would be a shame to leave there without trying the duck breast or beef bourguignon. Order up the "pots" of wine for the house selection that is extremely affordable and far superior to most options in the States.


With just one night and meal remaining in the city of lights, I decided to take a risk and try out an up and coming, new restaurant in Montmartre - a great excuse to head up to one of my favorite parts of the city. Chamarre Montmartre is neither brasserie nor cafe, but rather inventive and modern - both in setting and in food. We indulged in a 3 course prix fixe, but somehow managed to eat close to 6 courses as the amuse-bouches served as palate cleansers before and after every course. We ordered from both ends of the spectrum for both the starters and the main courses. We began with a duo of foie gras and a trio of raw seafood, followed by roasted pigeon and baked sole. The mains were accompanied by seasonal, baby vegetables which tasted amazing, but almost looked fake to me! The excellent preparation and creativity of each and every dish demonstrated that this chef certainly knows what he is doing. Our desserts followed the same pattern as both were a combination of fresh fruits, pastry, and sorbet - light and refreshing, yet full of flavor. I have a feeling a star or two could be coming to Antoine Heerah any day now.


Well, that about sums up my happy places (for now). It's time to bring myself back to the world of NYC or at least start writing about it again. While New York City isn't necessarily what I would call a happy place since I have been living here for 6 years (and let's face it, the wear and tear of it creates a love/hate relationship for most), I have countless amazing memories and feelings when I am there. And, it's always a great feeling to return to my apartment after both short and long trips away. After hiking the 5 flights of stairs and struggling with my suitcase, I actually just get that happy feeling - that "it's nice to be home feeling." I'll always and already miss ACK, SD, and Paris, but I'm happy to say it - it's good to be back.

Havens of Happiness: Part 1 - Nantucket

If there is one thing that I am certain of, it's the importance of happy places. Every one should have at least one. That place where no matter what is going on in your life, you feel at ease - basically like a child again. While the best part of a happy place is actually being there, the memories of the place can often be just as powerful. I'm coming off a couple months of hitting up almost all of my favorite spots and, I'll be honest, it feels pretty great. True, these places would not exist in such an elevated place in my mind without the amazing settings and friends and family in tow. However, when it comes down to it, most of my days away are defined by my meals - making sure I get to pack in all of my favorites in such a short period of time. Could it be that my happy places are really my happy eating places? To any one that knows me well, that actually sounds just about right.


My original happy place is Nantucket. I have been going there with my family every year of my life during the month of June - missing only one year and I can guarantee that will never happen again. We have our traditions - and with no surprise, they basically all revolve around food. Whenever people ask me what my favorite food is (one of the hardest questions for a lover of all foods!), I can actually easily answer. It's lobster - hands down. And this love affair started at the age of five when I had my first lobster out on Nantucket. A trip to the island is not complete without lobster night at home. We used to pick up our live lobsters at the local seafood store, and then, cook and crack them at home. I loved playing with the lobsters, making them race each other across the kitchen floor - truly getting to know them before they took their last breathe. As excited as I was about getting to eat my favorite food, it was always pretty traumatic when it was time to get out the big pot. It took only a few years of convincing me to break part of this tradition and actually have someone else cook and crack them. Believe it or not, the lobsters taste even better when you don't have to do the dirty work. Call up the Straight Wharf Fish Store or Sayle's Seafood and they will be more than happy to prepare your very own lobster feast for the evening.


After a night or two at the house, I am always ready to head out to dinner. A night at The Company of the Cauldron is a must. This quaint restaurant is the site of my first gourmet meal. At age ten, one night at the Company was the beginning of the end for the Hungry Roach - my days at the Brotherhood suddenly became few and far between. Located in the heart of downtown, this tiny restaurant serves only one menu each night at two different seatings. The moment we arrive on island, we head to India Street to reserve a night that appeals to all. In all fairness, I have yet to have a less than perfect meal there. We could definitely blindly pick a night and be more than satisfied as each year the food just seems to get better and better. This year was no exception. We started the evening with house made lemon basil fettuccine tossed with lobster, shrimp, spring peas, and fresh morels. I can never turn down an evening with lobster on the menu - and this dish did not disappoint. It was followed by a farm arugula and melon salad served with Nantucket farm greens - an excellent, light transition between the heavier dishes. I still had plenty of room for every morsel of the pecan crusted halibut topped with key lime beurre blanc, served with herb roasted fingerling potatoes and grilled asparagus. This was every bit as delicious as it sounds. And the momentum carried straight on through dessert as we all polished off a blackberry creme brulee. I already cannot wait for next year's meal - another tradition that simply will not be broken!

We do try to mix it up and try out another restaurant or two each year. This year's lucky winner was The Galley at Cliffside Beach. And, it truly was a winner in our eyes. Despite a cloudier morning, we ended up there for the quintessential Nantucket sunset. Whether we are sitting on our widow's walk, on the cliff at Step's Beach, or right on Jetty's beach, I've got to watch the sun sink into the Nantucket Sound at least once before leaving. We were lucky enough to catch our sunset all the while enjoying a delicious meal. The restaurant is located right on the beach - and the seafood-full menu doesn't let you forget it. There were so many excellent options for both starters and main courses, it was almost hard to decide. The pernod-scented escargots with melted leeks, tomato, and garlic butter served with a homemade breadstick were excellent. I would also recommend the hamachi tartare with creamy avocado, radish, seaweed crisp, and aged soy. Seafood was definitely the way to go with the entrees, but that still did not seem to narrow down the many choices. The miso-marinated halibut with daikon, carrot and tatsoi salad topped with chiang xiuang vinaigrette as well as the pan-roasted artic char with braised greens, double-smoked bacon, and rock shrimp polenta were unforgettable. Whether or not you have room for dessert, another course is the perfect reason to prolong your rights to this high-valued real estate. We passed around and completely cleared the plates of a lemon-lime tart, an apple tart with caramel ice cream, and a warm chocolate brownie topped with vanilla ice cream and toasted hazelnuts. The Galley may have just joined the ever-growing Nantucket tradition list.

Just thinking of all of these meals, I am sitting here with a smile on my face. If that doesn't define a happy place, then I don't know what does. Thank goodness for memories and the possibility of return. That alone should get me through the next 11 months until it's time to return to our magical island once again! The countdown has begun...

Mexican Chicas Don't Get Fat

Why is it that whenever I go out for Mexican food, I have to prepare myself for an unhealthy evening of indulgence? Don't get me wrong. Mexican food is one of my favorite types of cuisine, but I do always feel that it's a sort of treat or something I could never really indulge in more than one a week - at most. Even at the most gourmet Mexican restaurants in the city, I still feel as though all dishes are fairly heavy, emphasizing cheese, cream, and enormous tortillas. After a week in Mexico, I have an entirely new perception of Mexican food - well, actual Mexican food. I never once got sick of it or felt like I was eating unhealthily. In fact, I could not get enough. I will even admit that for my final meal at the Cancun airport, I ordered pork tacos from the food court - and they were better than what many restaurants in New York City serve!

So what's the secret? The key is finding the truly authentic restaurants - which really was not too hard to do near the Mayan ruins of Tulum. Once you identify the right restaurants (with the help of the locals), you will see that everything you order is just so fresh and full of spice. There was barely any cheese or cream on most dishes. Instead, there is an emphasis on seasonal produce, meats, and spices. Even the tortillas are lighter - made almost always of corn and warm upon arrival. This might help explain the gorgeous tan bodies of most of the people in the surrounding area. Although, a relaxing, carefree Caribbean lifestyle spent mainly outdoors could always be a contributing factor as well.

We were fortunate enough to stay at Cesiak, an eco-lodge in the Sian Ka'an biosphere reserve where not only the setting was incredible, but the food was too. Every morning, we were greeted with a sunrise and then made our way to the dining deck for a breakfast feast. Everything on the menu from omelets to hot cakes to fresh fruit, yogurt, and granola was a cut above a typical American start to the day. While I am not a huge fan of Mexican coffee, I did find that the freshly squeezed orange juice gave me a great boost each morning. And, as the day went on, it was the guacamole that facilitated all future energy boosts. Yes - guacamole for lunch, happy hour, and dinner - twice a day at minimum, and it never got old! Each batch would be a little different from the next - perhaps more tomato, fewer onions, or simply an addition of lime and garlic. But, regardless of the differences, each serving was always delicious. It didn't hurt that guacamole was always served with homemade baked tortilla chips.

No matter which direction you turn while visiting Cesiak, there is always some body of water in vision - after all, Sian Ka'an is on a peninsula. You can imagine how all the seafood served is therefore extremely fresh. My favorite main dish which was offered for lunch and dinner was the shrimp tacos. As with all food consumed there, these are just extremely fresh and full of flavor as the shrimp was marinated in a chipotle sauce and topped with freshly sliced tomatoes and avocados. One of my other favorite dishes to order at Cesiak and at nearly all other restaurants in the area was the ceviche. The combinations of fresh white fish, octopus, and baby shrimp with diced vegetables and lime were flawless. The flavors were crisp and completely refreshing - the perfect dish after a morning and/or afternoon under the warm Mexican sun. And, to compliment any of the food mentioned above, fresh margaritas were a must. I found the same holds true for actual Mexican cocktails - they are so much better in Mexico as quality tequila and fresh limes make a world of difference!

So yes, I am calling a week of indulging daily in omelets, guacamole, tacos, and margaritas a healthy one! While I would like to think there is just something in the air down there, I honestly think it's truly in the food. Go to Mexico, and specifically Cesiak, and see for yourself. Food and drink are at it's purest. And you will be too - waking, sleeping, dining, running, swimming, and exploring by the beach, under the sun. It doesn't get much purer than that!