Rubirosa

Pizza in New York will never cease to amaze me. How new Italian restaurants continuously open and aptly compete with what has already been deemed The Best of New York is often beyond me. Yet, time and time again (and this often feels like month after month), the latest additions to the scene can certainly contend with the rest - and the best. And Nolita's Rubirosa is no exception.


Part of what makes pizza in New York so unique is that it comes in all shapes and forms. From sauce to crust to toppings, prepared by brick to wood-fired to coal-fired ovens, served by slice or pie and beyond, chefs can almost consider it a form of art. Through their circular creations, they can really make a statement and push the competition to the next level. At Rubirosa, the initial draw is pizza with exceptionally thin and crispy crust. However, this would never be the success that it is without the amazing flavors to go along with it.


I am definitely not done talking about the crust. This crust deserves to be talked and talked about as it is truly some of the best thin crust pizza I have ever had. There is nothing more frustrating than deliciously tasting pizza with a soggy center. Every one knows exactly what I am talking about as it really just ends up becoming a tease of what could have been. And this can happen too often with thin crust pies. Well this is far from a worry at Rubirosa where the delicate pizzas are both perfectly crisp and the doughy flavors still remain intact. After sampling several options, I am convinced you cannot go wrong with any of their pies. However, the Classic pizza is a must and one that any pizza lover won't be able to turn down or put down, and it's probably the secret behind each and every one of these pies. The sweet and light sauce immediately reminded me of Joe's (on Carmine), my favorite slice in the city. The chef and co-owner Angelo Pappalardo uses his family's 50 year old recipe straight from his father's Staten Island institution Joe & Pat's. I'm convinced it's the same Joe and that he truly was a pizza genius.


For the meat-lover, I highly recommend the sausage, broccoli rabe, fresh mozzarella, and pecorino pie. But, my favorite pizza of the night was the mushroom, prosciutto, peas and pecorino combination. Whole snap peas are served on top and serve as an excellent complement to the saltiness of the delicate meat. While pizza is certainly the highlight here, the menu is quite extensive offering all kinds of Italian specialties. The meatballs are as flavorful as they get and with an expertise in sauces, the chef makes no exceptions with this dish. I also recommend the simple and fresh salad options. The mixed green served with fennel, pecorino and oregano vinaigrette and the Rubirosa served with country bread, tomato, basil, and mozzarella allow you to sneak in a little more of that irresistible Italian cheese in just a lighter manner.


And while I could go on about the rest of the menu, it's really all about the pizza at Rubirosa. They even serve it by the slice at lunch - a rarity for a sit-down pizza restaurant. As New York City's latest contender, the bar is once again raised. I guess this really just explains why New York will forever be the pizza capital. Rubirosa isn't going anywhere, but I do know the next competitor may be just around the corner.




Rubirosa
235 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 965-0500
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Social Eatz

You can't judge a restaurant by it's name or it's location. Had I not loved Xie Xie or followed nearly every season of Top Chef, Social Eatz would have been far from my radar. Thankfully, the threat of excellent food will always broaden my horizon. Chef Angelo Sosa's latest venture located in prime midtown, while completely inconvenient for me, certainly positions his cuisine to cater to the NYC masses. He has been judged so many times in Season 7 of Top Chef and most recently in Top Chef All Stars, Sosa has proven he is now more than ready to do as he pleases. And he certainly can as his Asian sandwich shop on 53rd street has finally given me a reason to be envious of those a part of the daily rat race.


I apologize for seeming like such a midtown hater. Although in my eight years in New York City, I never lasted more than one professional year in walking distance of Rockefeller Center. While I should blame it on the job, I can't pretend that debating between a lunch at Au Bon Pain or Hale and Hearty didn't make my exit even faster. However, a lunch or early dinner at Social Eatz may have actually made me rethink my decision to leave the world of marketing - or at least, prolong my departure.


While sandwiches and burgers are the focus, there are certainly appetizers (app'z), salads (salad'z), and tacos (taco'z) worth sampling - never mind the overuse of the last letter of the alphabet. No matter what you order, the crispy spring rolls are an absolute must. I am not sure I have ever had spring rolls this good. In fact, as far as spring rolls go, they definitely earn five roaches. These are made with chunks of shrimp, ground chicken, diced jicama and shredded cabbage. mushrooms, scallions and cilantro served with a duck sauce made from calamansi, a citrusy filipino fruit, with a sweet and sour essence. Two large rolls come with each order and while I was a little turned off by how big they were, after one bite, I was thrilled at the size. On second thought, it could have been serious trouble had Social Eatz been around when I was a midtowner.


All sandwiches and burgers arrive with an order of fries which are wonderfully crisp and fried. I highly recommend the Bibimbap burger. This is truly my favorite Korean dish packed into a patty and minus the rice. Ground beef is topped with a slow cooked egg, covered in lettuce and served with pickled carrots and cucumbers. There is no way to avoid the messiness of this concoction, but the flavors are certainly worth it. I also highly recommend the Kung Pao Wow sandwich served on a baguette. Sosa marinates certified organic chicken in a soy-sesame sauce and then iron sears it with thai chili. The sandwich is topped with a smooth, roasted peanut spread which lightly tones down the heat of the dish.


And while Angelo no longer has to face the Judge's Table of Top Chef, he has certainly put himself in the line of fire with Social Eatz. Lucky for him, his skills in the kitchen have taken him beyond Hollywood. I urge you too to embrace his quirks and find a reason to love the NYC rat race. Angelo, I just hope you are ready for the masses!




Social Eatz
232 East 53rd Street
New York, NY 10022
(212) 207-3339
website
Food Rating (Out of 5):

Buvette

Welcome to the neighborhood! After living in the west village for nearly 8 years, I do take it personally when a wonderfully warm culinary establishment moves right in. In a neighborhood where restaurants are constantly coming and going, I feel it has become my duty to greet a lucky few with open arms. The minute I walked into Buvette, my arms immediately extended. It's hard for me not to love a restaurant where a chalk-drawn map of France (and Italy) takes over its main wall and the name alone (the french word for refreshment) reminds me of the very reason I have a life outside of my apartment and office. This place already has a buzz in the air - and while it may definitely be coming from the wine, coffee, and even the food, the people have much to do with it too.


The owners are both friendly and hard at work. The minute you walk in, they make you feel as though you have personally been invited to dine with them - even on the busiest of nights. Buvette is tucked away on Grove street in the former home of the Pink Tea Cup, a soul food spot that never quite lived up to its prime location. It's the kind of place that nearly every one can find a reason to stop by. After all, who doesn't need or simply want refreshments in their life? And with both its (soon to be offered) early morning and late night hours, it's up to you whether you want to stop by for coffee or wine - or perhaps even both. The good news is that Buvette recognizes that every great refreshment should be accompanied by delicious food - offering an assortment of small plates to quench your every desire.


The menu is made up of a selection of tartines (open face toasts), fromagerie and charcuterie. However, in addition to these standard offerings, there are nightly specials that fall under the fish, meat, and vegetable categories. These are all small plates, although they are very generously sized as well as generously priced. The only trouble we ran into was fitting everything onto our table - these actually go with the small size theme. However, this meant we were able to take our time enjoying each plate as they were presented to us. Unlike many tapas restaurants, we never had to look at our entire meal in one glance.

I highly recommend the hazelnut pesto with parmesan and orange zest tartine. The citrus and cheese combination was an excellent addition to the hearty spread. I am eager to return and try the other tartines as this one was divine. If the kale and lentils are a nightly special, I urge you to order it. Served in an adorable mini cast iron cassoulet, the lentils are cooked with black kale and shallots in a balsamic sauce. A second cast iron dish full of pork arrived as an excellent compliment to the flavorful vegetarian option. The pork was braised perfectly with apples and calvados creating a savory and sweet taste in the tender meat. There wasn't a dish that left that kitchen that my eyes didn't follow as each and every was so appealing in both presentation and smell. Apologies to my dinner date - although thankfully, she was on the very same page as me. And that's what lead us directly to dessert. There was just no way around ordering the chocolate mousse and I can confirm that our eyes did not deceive us on that front.


I am just relieved I made it there before Lent as I am now off of sweets for the next 40 (now 35!) days. But that certainly will not keep me away from a stop off at Buvette in the near future. It does mean that on my next trip I'll have to keep my focus on my own little table which is probably just good news for my dining companion. And now I've got a legitimate reason to close out my next meal with another savory tartine (something I was tempted to do anyways)! With that kind of modification, Lent may not be quite as tough as it seems.




Buvette
42 Grove Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 255-3590
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Aria

As promised, I am taking you directly back to my comfort zone - to a cozy wine bar in the west village where the food deserves just as much credit as both the drink and the setting. After witnessing months of abandoned storefronts in the neighborhood, I've begun to notice new businesses and especially restaurants returning to the scene. It's always amazing to me when a space that I never even imagined as a restaurant can suddenly transform into one over night. At Aria, this was definitely the case. It took me several strolls past the front window before realizing I was passing the space that had once been home to a pair of small boutiques that just couldn't quite make it off the beaten path. And while the interior of this new restaurant always looked so nice and cozy in passing, I will openly admit that I assumed it to be just another new, cute village spot whose atmosphere would probably make up for the overpriced small plates.


Well, I apologize now for being so quick to judge. But, in all actuality, I am really the one who was missing out all of these months. Aria has been an excellent addition to the west village dining scene since its opening in the early summer. And as the weather gets colder, this is the kind of spot you will want to head to and simply linger over several glasses of wine. I can imagine that on busy nights, the acoustics are not the best. However, I think the key in such a small space is just going in small groups. Anything more than four and you may as well keep walking. While they do offer a communal table in the middle of the restaurant, think of that option as more of a chance to get to know your neighbors and less of a chance to actually toast an entire table.


Each night there are additions to the menu that are definitely worth noting - so much so they even write them on the paper menu in front of you. And for a menu of small plates, the portions and prices are really very reasonable. The same goes for the assorted glasses of wine. The only draw back of encouraging small group dining here is that you probably won't get to sample as many dishes as you would like in one sitting. However that is the beauty of a neighborhood spot such as Aria. Your next visit is never that far away.

On any menu, if burrata is offered, it is a must - and this is no exception at Aria. We were lucky enough to stop by on a night when one of the specials was burrata served with tomatoes and prosciutto, dressed in balsamic vinegar. Another one of our favorites, also a special of the evening, was the shrimp skewers served with large white beans in a hearty red pepper sauce. I was underwhelmed by the oven roasted peppers and marinated anchovies with goat cheese, but a few heartier dishes on the regular menu really caught my attention. I highly recommend the beef meatballs and oven roasted tomatoes topped with fresh parmesan. But, it was the stewed calamari with capers and basil that really was unique and so full of flavor from the fresh herbs and berries. I have never eaten calamari in such a way, and it was a welcome change for a dish that usually only succeeds when fried.

Even though Aria has been around for several months, I would like to officially welcome it to the neighborhood. If the other abandoned storefronts continue to fill up in the example of Aria, we are in for a good year ahead. And just the other day as I was passing by, Aria took me by surprise yet again. In the face of scaffolding that has recently gone up out front, the restaurant has embraced a typical NYC hindrance and made the most of it - dressing the steel poles with festive greenery and vines. This place definitely deserves a second look.



Aria
117 Perry Street
New York, New York 10014
(212) 242-4233
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Salumè

Why isn't my office in Soho? Why aren't we in Morningside Heights right now? How is everything so delicious? Those were the exact thoughts continuously running through my mind as I devoured every morsel of panino set in front of me at Salumè last week. For those of you who do work in Soho, Nolita, Tribeca, Greenwich village or even Midtown (honestly, I would hop on that subway if I were you), your lunch world has just been turned upside down - and I mean, in the best of ways. I have already plotted in my mind the evenings that I will make a dinner detour to Soho prior to its 8 pm closing for even just one bite of a Salumè panino. Weekend shopping trips downtown just reached a whole new level of appeal as a lunch stop here will be well worth facing the packed streets. This place is the real deal. So whether or not you have any business being in Soho around lunchtime, you better start making it your business.


After just one evening spent inside this salumeria, I immediately realized that there is no secret behind its success. This is simply a restaurant full of Italian heart and soul - and that comes directly from its Milanese owner Michele Colombo. He has truly taken it upon himself to bring an authentic taste of Italy straight to New York City. And while last week in my post I clarified the use of the French word tartine, this week I will most proudly clarify the Italian term panini. First of all, and I am just as guilty of this misconception as the next American, panini is the plural and panino is actually the singular. Little did I know that I was so often referencing eating several Italian sandwiches in one sitting. And after eating here that could actually become a regular occurrence. But, what Salumè taught me that was even more astonishing is that the traditional Italian panino is NOT pressed. Pressing, in fact, will actually destroy the intended flavor combinations which is a true waste and even insult when serving the finest of ingredients.


And so Salumè prides itself in serving top quality products and does so with the proper care. All meats here are sliced to order right before your eyes - guaranteeing that when you are served, your sandwich is in its best possible state. After your first bite, you will not need any convincing of this. Not only are the meats of excellent caliber, but the cheeses are held to the very same standard. It's as if the bread was perfectly designed to hold the amount of ingredients that they serve you - oh wait, it was! While the bread is made out of shop, Salumè has managed to create it's very own roll with Eli's Bakery. With such high quality all around, it is amazing to see that the prices are actually comparable to those at your mediocre, local cured meat shop.


I am 100% confident in stating that I do not think you can go wrong here - well, as long as you like meat. They do have vegetarian options, and I imagine those to be excellent as well - but I will only stick to imagining that. We all know how I work and with fine meats before me, the carnivore within cannot hold back. My absolute favorite panino, and I believe it is already the most popular, is the Langhirano - parma prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, tomato, and extra virgin olive oil. This is certainly one of the most traditional Italian panino combinations and they truly nail it here. The meat and cheese are out of this world. I imagine that I will start repeating myself as I go through each of the sandwiches - gushing about how much I love them and what amazing quality the meat and cheese are. And so, I will spare you the repetition. Instead, I will mention my second favorite - the Bologna made with mortadella, emmenthal, arugula, and mustard. The addition of arugula sells me every time. And then there was the Valtellina - bresaola, brie, sliced lemon and pepper. I loved this simple, yet unique combination of ingredients.


So it's ok to admit it. Before reading this, you thought panini was singular and always pressed. I certainly did before last week. But, that's really just another reason why I love food. One minute you are learning from it, the next you are oohing and ahhing over its remarkable flavors. If you can't get to a culture, food will always be the next best way to get a taste of it. It won't be long before Italian professors and their students are lined up at the door of Salumè. Italian has always been next on my list for languages to learn. Come registration this fall, that just might be my ticket to regular lunches down in soho!




Salumè
330 West Broadway
New York, New York 10013
(212) 226-8111
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Tartinery

Although it doesn't sound it, the word tartine can often be quite foreign and confusing for Americans. However, it is simply yet another example of a single French word that encompasses several American ones. While my all time favorite word like this is "flaner" (to wander aimlessly), tartine is right up there with it as it describes an excellent culinary concept - the open-faced sandwich. Leave it to the French to knock off that extra slice of bread, improving both presentation and calorie intake. Is it really still any wonder why French Women Don't Get Fat?


My love of sandwiches and anything French is no secret. And so the opening of Tartinery in Nolita caught my attention immediately. One aspect I liked most was knowing that this restaurant was set up for both lunch AND dinner. Too often my favorite sandwich spots pack up shop around 7 pm and would never dream of selling alcohol. Tartinery, as with most French establishments, encourages both lingering and the consumption of all kinds of wine and beer. While the setting has a more modern, New York feel, the waitstaff transport you immediately back to France. This is the kind of place that will drive many Americans nuts as they simply let you be. It is actually up to you to let your waiter know when you are ready to order - and when you do, it's almost as if you have interrupted them from their own night out. For those of you who have spent any time in France, you are nodding your head right now, remembering this strange sense of service - and hopefully smiling too as you had quickly learned to almost appreciate this idiosyncrasy. For the others, I do warn, this will be a true test of patience.


This kind of service is usually excusable as the food delivered to the table makes it well worth the attitude. However, Tartinery still has some work to do in its kitchen to really transport me back to France. While the sandwiches were indeed all open-faced, the large amount of food placed on top brought me right back to America. They do have a wonderful list of sandwich selections with very interesting flavor combinations, but I really do believe it would serve them well to offer them with French portions. All of the tartines are served on multi-grain or rustic sourdough Poilane (from the famous French boulanger) and accompanied with a house salad. They cut them up into four portions, so I highly recommend sharing several. My favorite was the roast farm chicken topped with homemade herbed mayo, shaved fennel, and olive oil. This was extremely comforting and nicely balanced. I also really enjoyed the goat cheese tartine topped with frisee, honey, olive oil, and fresh thyme. Besides overkill on the frisee, the portions actually were appropriate on this sandwich. I was a little disappointed by the Saint Marcellin cheese tartine with bayonne ham, arugula, and olive oil. It would have worked much better had the cheese not been melted into the sandwich (and, of course, with a little less ham).Be sure to ask about the daily specials since there are few other non-tartine items on the menu. We enjoyed a really nice shrimp risotto that was creamy and actually served in a French portion.

New York really does need more spots like this. Tartinery is a wonderful restaurant for groups as it is affordable, great for sharing, and actually fairly large once you head downstairs. It is just a shame that a French concept has been so Americanized already. While the waiters know exactly which side of the pond they represent, the kitchen still seems to be in the middle of an identity crisis. I am hopeful that as the chic upstairs bar draws in the crowds the French attitude will start to rule in the back as well. And so as the French say, "bon courage!"




Tartinery
209 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 300-5838
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):