Brooklyn Fare

Apparently, I am all about the set menus these days. They are, of course, not an every night affair, but why can’t they be an every once in awhile affair? The amount of food that you are served, and if you are in the right place, the level of excellence that you witness, is certainly worth the price. Who doesn’t loved being served a chef's very best selection? And if you are ever given the opportunity to go or can plan far enough in advance to book a piece of its counter, add Brooklyn Fare to your culinary experiences.

When Chef Cesar originally opened this unique spot, it was the ultimate chef’s table - a kitchen with a basic table set in a simple space next door to the Brooklyn Fare grocery store in the heart of downtown Brooklyn. He would serve a fixed menu each night to the 12 lucky guests that had already recognized the talent of this rising star. Now, two Michelin stars later, Chef Cesar continues to produce the same, exquisite culinary creations, but in a much more established, systemized setting for 18 with up to three seatings a night - and with a higher price of $120 per person. There is still the BYO and serve yourself policy and just one menu each night that is really only set no more than an hour or so before the first seating. The daily menu is determined through experimentation based on the market’s freshest produce and catches.

Although the chef hails from Mexico, most of the menu is Asian inspired. The evening starts with an assortment of 10-12 small dishes that are not listed on the menu. Every one is seated at the arced counter that faces the kitchen and is served at the same time once dishes are plated and presented on display. Not only is every course unique in flavor combinations and ingredients, but each one was served in what seemed to be a dish designed perfectly for it. I apologize in advance for not being able to snap photographs of these mouthwatering creations, but photographs are no longer permitted in this intimate setting (explicitly noted in the menu).


If you are sushi lover, you will love this place as the majority of dishes were seafood - and often raw. Don’t let the idea of 10-12 small dishes prior to the actual menu scare you off as these were truly bite size or even finger food - and not even listed in the menu. On the night we were there, the seafood bites included a wild salmon ceviche, torro with ginger, oyster with grapefruit, king crab, yellowtail with jalapeno, sardine with thinly sliced fried potatoes, and smoked octopus with hearts of palm. Other highlights were a duck croquettes and a shot of pumpkin and parmesan soup. It was over an hour into the evening before anything from the set menu arrived in front of us, but at Brooklyn Fare, there is really no concept of time. Somehow you are never waiting for a dish, yet at the same time, you never feel rushed. While the main dishes did arrive on larger plates, the portions were nicely suited for the culinary feast we were in the midst of enjoying. Everything was so beautifully plated on usually just one part of the dish, it often resembled a piece of art. The highlights of the main dishes were scallops with shrimp risotto and pea shoots, pumpkin ravioli with truffles and porcinis, monkfish with foie gras and cabbage, and guinea hen with roasted brussel sprouts. Dessert was extremely understated with sorbet and petit fours - and that was fine by me as the finale to the sublime feast of nearly 20 dishes.

When food is coming at you with that level of grace and expertise, it is best to just take it all in and enjoy the moment you are in. While I can only begin to tell you about this experience, it is truly a personal one that I hope any one with food curiosities can take part in at some point. At first I was a little disappointed that no photographs were allowed. But, by the end, I realized no pictures could possibly do the meal justice and I am glad my amateur photography skills didn’t need to confirm that for all of you.

And for those of you who are all about the Roach Rating - you are seeing correctly. Brooklyn Fare earned all five! I admit that I did once declare that when I came across anything Five Roachworthy, my work was done. I take that back! I am already wondering, who will be the next?





Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn Street
New York, NY 11217
(718) 243-0050
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Torrisi

Deli by day, gourmet dining by night. Torrisi is my kind of place. There is nothing quite like an authentic Italian deli. You know the kind I am talking about - the kind of place where the meat is piled high, but not too high. The mozzarella is so fresh that you actually wish, against your better judgment, they had piled more on, knowing the end result would be nothing but obscene (and delicious). For this very reason, after lunch at an Italian deli, dinner is usually a far away thought.


Although it’s quite rare to actually make it to one of these little gems midday during the work week. They are few and far between and even if there was one in close proximity to my office, I am not sure my bosses would appreciate my inevitable state of food coma post lunch. Thanks to Torrisi, we all get the best of all worlds - an Italian deli where dinner is not only a possibility, but it is truly an indulgent experience. At this tiny spot in Nolita, all of the freshest items that you would find at the best kind of Italian deli are transformed into gourmet dishes in the evenings. Before you know it, you are eating an eight course dinner in this cozy, converted shop to a no-frills dining room for a set price of $50.

The only catch - the menu is entirely set daily, allowing for no substitutions. For someone like me who gets excited when something appears on a menu that I’ve never even heard of, this is no catch at all. It’s truly a treat. For those of you that may be a bit pickier, they do post the menu each evening online for the next day so you can assess if you are up for the adventure. After all, unless you arrive just before 6, you are most likely going to be waiting in line for it. But I can assure you that it’s worth it.

Our dining experience began with an assortment of antipasti. Each dish was served on a very unique plate, many of which could have easily come from my grandmother’s china cupboard. There were moments when I felt like I was eating at home, and I was often smiling as I was reminded that this really was your everyday deli. We begin with homemade mozzarella that had been soaking in olive oil and served with garlic and parsleyed toasts. It was as simple and delicious as it sounds. The next dish, an apple and potato pancake was much more unexpected, but had a great balance of sweet and savory. We moved right into a hearty olive bread layered with homemade pesto and fresh cod spread. Each dish was so different from the previous, making each one stand apart with such unique and bold flavors. The final antipasti was barbecued sweetbreads served over rice and crispy greens - the first of several delicious meat dishes, of course, the highlight of any Italian deli in my books.

The primi of the evening was a homemade fusilli topped with a dirty duck ragu. The pasta was perfectly al dente and the entire dish just melted in my mouth. There was one choice that evening - and it was between a main course of skate or grilled heritage pork chop. I am sure you can guess which I opted for. The pork was just perfectly prepared and served with vinegar peppers. The grilled meat, again, took me to the comforts and simplicities of home - a home I need to visit more often. After a constant flow of so many powerful dishes, we were served a nice portion of lemon italian ice. And since we started the evening with a sampling of antipasti, it was only fair to end with an assortment of Italian house pastries. Thank goodness these were mini! While they were all delicious in their own way, I was glad to only have to give in to these smaller temptations.

Torrisi is truly a gem in New York City. This is a spot that has figured out how to take an Italian deli to the next culinary level while still remaining true to themselves. I had no idea an authentic Italian deli could get much better. And that is certainly something worth lining up for.




Torrisi
250 Mulberry Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 965-0955
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Kin Shop

For the Top Chef fans out there, there was nothing quite like Season 1. While seven lucky chefs may have been crowned Top Chef over the past four years, there is really only one in my books. And when Harold Dieterle decided to open his first restaurant right around the corner from my first apartment in New York City, I definitely took that personally. Now that he has opened his second restaurant just a few blocks from my most current dwelling, I am convinced it is no coincidence - after all, I did just learn we both were married on the very same weekend this past year. Kindred food spirits, perhaps? It has definitely been a busy and exciting year for Harold as he opened a second venture where he has truly been able to display his culinary innovation and expertise that we all became so fond of through the television.


Kin Shop is named for the Thai word kin (to eat) as well as its relation and close proximity to Dieterle's original restaurant Perilla. It's name certainly does Thai food justice - especially on New York territory. I find it rare to come across an upscale Thai restaurant that still manages to embrace the true flavors of the region - even if this one does so with a sense of adventure. I only even label it upscale because the setting is actually appealing and quite cozy, all the while, still not too much of a scene. At most Asian restaurants in New York, I often find the atmosphere to lie at one end of the spectrum or the other. At Kin Shop, there is just the right balance of comfort and charm. Not to mention the right balance of both contemporary and classic Thai ingredients. While the menu offers dishes using very traditional Thai flavors, there are many elaborate combinations that demonstrate creativity from the other side of the world.

All of the dishes are meant to be shared - and no matter the size of them, they are perfect for it. We ordered several from each section and cleared the plates of each and every one. I highly recommend the warm sliced snap peas with diver seas scallops served with crispy shallots, pea greens, and toasted coconut. I also highly recommend the fried pork and crispy oyster salad topped with celery, peanuts, mint and a chili-lime vinaigrette. While the seafood adds a Western note to the dish, the Thai garnishes carry it right away from any form of familiarity. One of my favorite small plate options was the side selection of perfectly prepared, grilled eggplant served with rice pearls, fish sauce and mint. For any of the dishes, there is always the option of adding more heat or even a touch of sour as pots of Thai chiles and white vinegar arrive on each table as soon as the first dish arrives. Take care when adding the chiles as there is no turning back once these hit your system. Although, just to be safe, it's best to order the delicious side dishes of jasmine rice and crispy roti as they may be the perfect solution to bring back feeling to any numbed lips.

But, it was the larger plates that we were all most excited about. I can't decide which noodle dish I liked more as we all headed back for seconds on both. The pan fried crab vermicelli noodles are tossed with yellow chives, roasted chili, and tatsoi (a mustard green) and the stir fried wide wonton noodles are served with chicken sausage, thai broccoli rabe and oyster sauce. Best to satisfy both the seafood and meat cravings in ordering both. I also highly recommend the rabbit leg which has been steamed on the bone in a wet banana leaf leaving the meat tender and moist. This sour yellow curry was an extremely unusual and flavorful dish presented with multi-grain rice, eggplant chutney and thai basil. And finally, for one more spicy dish, go for the duck. The heat of the red curried roasted duck breast is offset with crispy roti, green mango, fresh herbs, and tamarind water that should all be wrapped in crisp green lettuce leaves. This is an excellent dish to give the chopsticks a rest and get your hands in on the action.

And while Asian restaurants are never high on my dessert curiosity list, we couldn't pass up the steamed passion fruit pudding as this seemed to be the most classically Thai dish on the menu. However, leave it to Harold to mix it up and serve it with buttermilk sherbet. Ingredients don't get more Western than buttermilk! And I have certainly used my fair share when making cornbread, fried chicken and pancakes. If only I had known how well it could be paired with passion fruit sauce and steamed pudding. Perhaps I could I have been more than just a Top Chef fan!



Kin Shop
469 Sixth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 675-4295
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Aria

As promised, I am taking you directly back to my comfort zone - to a cozy wine bar in the west village where the food deserves just as much credit as both the drink and the setting. After witnessing months of abandoned storefronts in the neighborhood, I've begun to notice new businesses and especially restaurants returning to the scene. It's always amazing to me when a space that I never even imagined as a restaurant can suddenly transform into one over night. At Aria, this was definitely the case. It took me several strolls past the front window before realizing I was passing the space that had once been home to a pair of small boutiques that just couldn't quite make it off the beaten path. And while the interior of this new restaurant always looked so nice and cozy in passing, I will openly admit that I assumed it to be just another new, cute village spot whose atmosphere would probably make up for the overpriced small plates.


Well, I apologize now for being so quick to judge. But, in all actuality, I am really the one who was missing out all of these months. Aria has been an excellent addition to the west village dining scene since its opening in the early summer. And as the weather gets colder, this is the kind of spot you will want to head to and simply linger over several glasses of wine. I can imagine that on busy nights, the acoustics are not the best. However, I think the key in such a small space is just going in small groups. Anything more than four and you may as well keep walking. While they do offer a communal table in the middle of the restaurant, think of that option as more of a chance to get to know your neighbors and less of a chance to actually toast an entire table.


Each night there are additions to the menu that are definitely worth noting - so much so they even write them on the paper menu in front of you. And for a menu of small plates, the portions and prices are really very reasonable. The same goes for the assorted glasses of wine. The only draw back of encouraging small group dining here is that you probably won't get to sample as many dishes as you would like in one sitting. However that is the beauty of a neighborhood spot such as Aria. Your next visit is never that far away.

On any menu, if burrata is offered, it is a must - and this is no exception at Aria. We were lucky enough to stop by on a night when one of the specials was burrata served with tomatoes and prosciutto, dressed in balsamic vinegar. Another one of our favorites, also a special of the evening, was the shrimp skewers served with large white beans in a hearty red pepper sauce. I was underwhelmed by the oven roasted peppers and marinated anchovies with goat cheese, but a few heartier dishes on the regular menu really caught my attention. I highly recommend the beef meatballs and oven roasted tomatoes topped with fresh parmesan. But, it was the stewed calamari with capers and basil that really was unique and so full of flavor from the fresh herbs and berries. I have never eaten calamari in such a way, and it was a welcome change for a dish that usually only succeeds when fried.

Even though Aria has been around for several months, I would like to officially welcome it to the neighborhood. If the other abandoned storefronts continue to fill up in the example of Aria, we are in for a good year ahead. And just the other day as I was passing by, Aria took me by surprise yet again. In the face of scaffolding that has recently gone up out front, the restaurant has embraced a typical NYC hindrance and made the most of it - dressing the steel poles with festive greenery and vines. This place definitely deserves a second look.



Aria
117 Perry Street
New York, New York 10014
(212) 242-4233
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Del Posto

Like any heartfelt hiatus, mine lasted a little longer than expected. After all, it wouldn’t really have been a proper break had I not left you on your toes wondering when I would return. Wouldn’t it be terrible if on my return you were thinking, back already? Hopefully you are as thrilled as I am right now. In all honesty, I have been eager to write basically since the day I stopped. And now I’m sitting here giddy in the Atlanta airport as I tap away on the computer. Writing just feels good. And writing about restaurants - now that’s another story!

As promised, my time away from the computer was spent experiencing food and life to the fullest. So where do I even begin? I figure the best way to get back in is with a true bang. While I love nothing more than discovering hidden neighborhood gems, there is no denying how much I love and can appreciate the outwardly sparkling gems - the talked about restaurants that are actually worth your time, money, and indulgence. In my experience this is almost always my take on a Mario Batali restaurant. The man’s got talent. And Del Posto is no exception.


Located in a sort of no-man’s land between meatpacking and Chelsea, this large Italian restaurant opened nearly five years ago. Given it’s large size, ambiguous location, and simply the state of our economy, many may have assumed this would have been a short-lived venture. Del Posto has proven to be anything but. The difficulty in securing a reservation on even a Monday night is a definite indicator that its popularity is in fact continuously increasing. Since this was my first dining experience at Del Posto, I cannot personally attest to its improvement over time. But, I can say that it is certainly currently at a level of excellence that very few could ever attain and then maintain in such a demanding environment.


The setting alone is an experience. With the combination of live piano music as well as exposed balconies on the second floor, I felt as though I was transported to a previous era. It was truly romantic! So much so that I even noted and loved each delicate plate that the dishes were served on. Although, I won’t deny that my warm emotions may have also been influenced by the three delicious amuse-bouches that arrived at our table at the start of the meal. Without much surprise, the rest of the meal met up to this excellent beginning. Del Posto’s menu - both wine and cuisine - is an adventure. And, of course, with selections so inspiring, it was no question that we would order the five course tasting menu consisting of an appetizer, two shared primi dishes, one secondi, and dessert - all of which you have free reign to choose from any section of the menu. Since these mollusks are so rarely found on a menu, we started with the abalone carpaccio served with grilled asparagus and charred scallions. The carne cruda with truffled salsa, parmigiano-reggiano and shaved porcini mushrooms was the perfect complement to the sea snails. Both were light, yet full of flavor.

For the primi, we shared the spaghetti with dungeness crab, sliced jalapenos, and minced scallion and the ricotta pansotti with wild asparagus and black truffles. Both dishes were split into half portions, giving us a great sampling, but allowing room for much more. While both were excellent and homemade, my favorite was the pansotti which resembled a combination of mini tortellini and ravioli which immediately melted in my mouth. I was actually most surprised that the secondi portion of the meal ended up being my very favorite, especially since I was so pleased with how the meal started out. We ordered the seared duck breast with Apician spices, grilled apricots, and salt baked endive and the young lamb with lemon yogurt, chick peas and swiss chard ragu. There was a serious debate about which dish was better and basically ended with two completely cleared plates. Somehow, there was room still for dessert - the butterscotch semifreddo and the polenta cake baked in butter served with sage ice cream and caramelized sweet potato. The sweet and savory combination in the polenta dessert was incredible, but I was most impressed with the herbal ice cream which I so quickly devoured. Of course, no fancy meal is complete without additional treats from the chef and at Del Posto, this was no exception. There was not only one but TWO complimentary desserts to round out the meal. It's a wonder I didn't feel round myself by the end of the evening!


The night was one for the books. And I’m not the only one who seems to thinks so. I also know that any one reading this must have a list of restaurants set aside to try only on special occasions. Well, Del Posto should be at the top of yours. But, not to worry, I will soon bring you all back to reality. The Hungry Roach is back - and before long my latest neighborhood gem will be broadcast your way.





Del Posto
85 Tenth Avenue
New York, New York 10011
(212) 497-8090
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

THe Hungry Hiatus

I apologize as this was a post I was meant to have written at least two weeks ago. Since I have known for several months now that Fall 2010 promises to be one of the busiest, life-changing periods of my life, I had my big announcement all mapped out in my mind. At the mark of the two year anniversary of the Hungry Roach, I was going to take a two month pause from posting. Well, more than half a month has gone by and I still haven't managed to fill you in on my big decision. However, that fact alone reaffirms my need for this brief hiatus through September and October.

You may have been thinking that the start of the school year, the return of football season, or even the recent spell of glorious weather have all contributed to keeping me far from my computer - delaying my next mouthwatering post. While all observations are definitely true, there is still more to it this fall. Two weeks ago today marks the day I became a Mrs.! It's amazing how in one single day you can actually begin a whole new chapter in your life - in a way, gaining a whole new identity. I'll be perfectly honest in stating that most of my life I couldn't wait for the day that my last name would change. In fact, it wasn't until I started this blog that I finally fully embraced my given name. And how quickly that time went! Now that I have a new last name (which I couldn't be more excited about), I do love knowing that it is through the Hungry Roach that my name and childhood identity will live on.

You are now probably asking yourself, so what does all of this have to do with my need to take a break for the next two months? Shouldn't I be posting more and more now that my blog is the most obvious reminder of my former identity? That will certainly be the case come November. However, as I start my new journey, it's time to fully focus on my new partner in crime. While he is probably my biggest Hungry Roach fan and may actually be the most disappointed about my decision, I am truly excited for some computer free nights ahead. It's just what I need right now. But, not to worry - throughout my hiatus, the adventures will certainly go on. The trusty camera will still be accompanying me wherever our stomachs take us. A girl's got to eat - and well, at the very least! I promise to continue discovering culinary gems while enjoying my surroundings as much as ever. Who knows - you may actually spot me at the latest NYC hot spot, just over in the corner booth. Get ready. I will have so much to share upon my return, you will be sick of hearing from me! Until then, enjoy my favorite time of year, stay outside as much as possible while daylight still remains, and, most importantly, keep eating and sharing your time with loved ones.