Poco

Don't let the name fool you on this one. While I love the concept of being able to share small plates, I usually leave a tapas restaurant feeling completely unsatisfied or satisfied, but having spent way too much money. At Poco, where the philosophy is still all about sharing, there is actually nothing little about these Latin American dishes. This new restaurant fits right into Alphabet City with its laid back atmosphere and affordable prices. You can actually average a plate and a half per person and walk away with both a full wallet and belly. And, don't let the traditional tapas items on this menu shape your expectations. Each of my favorite dishes was based off of classic plates, but presented and prepared with a twist.

Halfway through my meal, I realized that Poco is the reincarnation of one of my old favorite east side dives. Upon sneaking downstairs, I was pleased to find that the second bar in the basement is still available for private parties. Whether you are there for a party or dinner, I highly recommend exploring their cocktail menu. The Poco Splash- gin, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and a splash of cava- was one of the most refreshing mixed drinks I have stumbled upon in awhile. And while that was not a special of the evening, be sure to tune into their weekly offerings as they range from trivia night to cocktails du jour.

Poco is all about having a good time - and the food falls right into this theme. I highly recommend the lobster mac-n-cheese prepared with manchego, parmesan, asiago cheese, topped with crunchy panko. Believe me, for every bite of lobster you score, you will know why it's a must. Another new take on a traditional dish is their calamari- tossed in a honey chipotle aioli and served with roasted piquillo peppers and fresh cilantro. I have never tasted calamari prepared in this way and am now wondering why this isn't the suggested preparation - it was delicious. The other dish you should not miss out on is the skirt steak and manchego cheese lollipops. The accompaniments of sweet onion jam and cilantro pesto take this tapa from one level to the next. And, for a lighter option, I recommend the mango tuna ceviche served with jicama, cucumber and jalapeno.

Perhaps its name is referring to the little amount of money you will spend, or the cozy little bar in the basement, or even the adorable little glass jars used to serve iced water. But Poco's food is certainly not the root of its namesake. If only more tapas restaurant shared this little philosophy - my wallet would be in much better shape!



Poco
33 Avenue B (at 3rd st.)
New York, NY 10009
(212) 228-4461
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Locanda Verde

We live in a green era. It's hard to remember that less than a decade ago, New York City was still a town dominated by black and white. While wardrobes are still city chic, these days green technology and trends are on every one's mind. Well, I've discovered a new kind of green - Locanda Verde - Tribeca's very own Green Inn. And even if this green establishment isn't necessarily focused on saving the environment, I can promise that in the food world it's mission is worth your time. After winning a Michelin star at one of my favorite Italian spots A Voce, chef Andrew Carmellini has decided to head south and share his talents in an even more enjoyable way. This spot is actually affordable without compromising the high culinary standards of its predecessor.

Locanda Verde is located below the Greenwich Hotel and marks Robert DeNiro's second restaurant attempt in this space. As most actors recognize, a second take is often just what they need. This reincarnation is here to stay - appealing in both atmosphere and setting. It's hard to believe that it's so hard to get a reservation in such a massive space. But, as soon as you taste the homemade foccacio soaked with fresh tomatoes and olive oil served in place of a traditional bread basket, you may actually wonder how you managed to score your seat. If you really are struggling with a reservation, I recommend dining at the bar or at least enjoying a drink in this trendy tavern.

This place is meant for groups. There are so many excellent options on the menu and all are suitable for sharing. Even the crostinis are nicely portioned and great for splitting. I recommend the blue crab crostini with jalapeno and tomato. While both the arugula and local tomato salads are excellent, there were two starters that I cannot get out of my mind. The lamb meatball sliders with caprino (a goat's cheese) and cucumber as well as the crispy artichokes with yogurt and mint are musts. I've had many fried artichokes in my day and these are the best I have ever had. They are perfectly crisp and served with pickled red peppers as well as an excellent sauce, perfect for foccacia dipping. The sliders are also different from any that I have tried as both the flavorful meat and the mini brioche bun stood out in my mind.

It was hard to decide on a pasta dish as a variety of all of my favorite traditional dishes are offered on the menu. We went with the homemade pappardelle with lamb bolognese, mint and ricotta and were not disappointed by these large, homemade flat noodles. Lamb is certainly a strength in this kitchen. But, the surprising winner of the entire night was the fire roasted garlic chicken for two, which (this is really no secret) can actually be ordered for one and it's still more than enough food! The flavors in this dish are out of this world. I know I'm not alone in feeling that chicken is probably the least exciting option when eating out. However, this dish proves that Andrew Carmellini has made it his very own mission to serve chicken worth leaving home and running for - and, mission accomplished! While the pistachio brown butter cake is their signature dessert, we opted for the lemon tart with buttermilk gelato and limoncello granita. For lemon chess fans, the gelato is an excellent twist to this traditional dish.

Whether it's your mission to save the planet or serve the perfect chicken, my hat's off to you - you are helping my world either way! Green is definitely on the mind. Just make sure you consider all shades and uses of the color - and venture to Tribeca where the latest cause has certainly left a mark.



Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich St. (@ N. Moore)
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-3797
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Joseph Leonard

As I sat down to write this post, I realized I was about to start it off with the exact same words that captured my excitement after dining at L'Artusi this past winter. Another one of my favorite restaurateurs has done it again. It was just nine months ago that I thought opening a nearby sister restaurant was an extremely rare, yet lucky phenomenon. And now, with the opening of Joseph Leonard, Gabriel Stulman of the Little Owl and Market Table has taken this concept to a new level. He has achieved the restaurant trifecta - and to my delight (and his success), it has all gone down in the west village.

As if I wasn't already drawn to any relative of the Little Owl, the name of this new spot immediately won me over. Named after both of Stulman's grandfathers, Joseph Leonard would make any grandparent glow with pride - you just may not want to take them there as the tough acoustics were my only complaint during the night. By most standards, this is an extremely cozy, intimate restaurant. But, in the world of Stulman, this is actually a size medium. What really sets Joseph Leonard apart is its central bar that takes up a large amount of the restaurant's space. Don't let this main attraction fool you as the food will win your attention in the end.


The menu is made up of the ever-popular, seasonal new American food. But, to separate itself from its siblings, Joseph Leonard is a true testament to the times - providing a large selection of reasonably priced options. As you sort through soups, salads, shellfish, meats, charcuterie, poultry, vegetables, grains, and potatoes, you can grab from the jar of cornichons decorating each wooden table. While it is hard to go wrong, it really is hard to decide. As summer is coming to an end, I decided to take advantage of many of the seafood options while they are still available. The raw oysters and the sardines with toasted country bread, fennel, and celery were great starters. But, it was the salt cod brandade and the tomato tart that were the winners. The creamy brandade was served on a baguette with curry oil and a piquillo pepper marmalade - truly setting this dish apart. The tomato phyllo tart was stuffed with tomatoes, tomato jam, fennel compote and comte cheese. It was amazing how they made this combination seem so delicate as it was packed with ingredients and flavor.

While it is usually the appetizers that are my favorite part of the meal, the main courses managed to wow me even more. The Old Bay soft shell crab was served with sweet corn, red onion, avocado, frisee and heirloom tomatoes - the perfect summer seafood grand finale. As a side, we ordered their delicious summer stuffing made up of corn, leeks and tarragon as its expiration date is just around the corner. But, my very favorite dish of the night was the roasted lamb T-bones with pesto, cauliflower gratin, and crispy onions. I think we transitioned right into autumn over the course of our dinner. The meat was perfectly prepared and the accompaniments brought out its unique flavors. I'm really hoping this dish ends up being cross-seasonal. And, while I'm making requests for the next season's menu, I'd like to ask that they keep around the caramel pudding with cookie crumbs and whipped cream as well as the carrot cake. We only had room for the delicious pudding, but I have a serious weakness for carrot cake and I have no doubt that they have already mastered it here.

On second thought, I probably would take my grandmother to this new spot knowing her devout sweet tooth. Even if we couldn't hear each other, I know she would appreciate its quaint setting and excellent cuisine. Joseph Leonard represents family pride and appreciation. So, in New York City, and especially in the west village, I have quickly realized that I'm no longer surprised when I learn of another opening of related restaurants. In the end, it actually makes total sense to me. If I had it my way, I'd live right around the corner from my sister too.


Joseph Leonard
170 Waverly Place (@ Grove St.)
New York, NY 10014
(646) 429-8383
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Elio's

And just like that. I've headed to the upper east side and I've already splurged on a meal. In all honesty, I went to Elio's prior to my confessions of my recent attempts at being on a budget. And, while I'm being completely honest, I would head straight there again tomorrow. Elio's is a New York City institution - and one that I will never hesitate to splurge on to be a part of. I have been going here since my days as a loyal Virginian and when looking around the room, I'm pretty certain that actual newcomers are few and far between. While clientele is typically older, this is still a scene. There is a buzz in the air as both diners and staff seem to be enjoying life to the fullest. And, how can you not when you've happened upon such authentic Italian cuisine that's never changing and not going anywhere?

I am waiting for the day when I make a reservation at Elio's and they actually seat me within five minutes of the actual time I've reserved. But, I have a feeling that day is nowhere in sight - as mentioned earlier, nothing is changing about this place. A glass of wine at the glamorous wooden bar will allow for some stargazing (I can't remember the last time I went without seeing someone famous) and the friendly staff will make up for it at your table- it's just a matter of getting seated. There's a reason this place is so popular and full of energy despite a packed house and long waits. Elio's is old school Italian in New York City at it's best.

It would be a sin to visit Elio's without starting off with their fried zucchini. These are thin, crispy, and not overly fried. Once that order is in, the next decisions are never quite as easy. While the menu is always the same, everything is guaranteed to be delicious. Each dish is always perfectly prepared - always so simply and with no frills. Other starters that I recommend sharing are the raw mushroom salad with fennel andParmesan, the roasted red peppers and anchovies, and the shrimp and white bean salad. One of the great secrets of Elio's is knowing that even if something isn't on the menu, it's still a possibility. On one occasion, when my waiter discovered my love for mushrooms, he brought out a delicious starter of mixed, marinated mushrooms. Whenever I have asked about this dish, it magically appears in front of me within a few minutes.

The main courses are just as enticing - and follow the same rules. If you ask a waiter which dish is best, he will respond by then asking you what it is that you really want to eat. Tell him exactly what you are in the mood for and that too will appear in front of you. On my last visit, it was penne pasta with fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil prepared with a medium level of spice. While this may sound rather basic, no matter how closely you look, this is not listed anywhere on the menu. And, each and every ingredient is as fresh as it gets. If you aren't craving pasta, go for the chicken or veal scaloppine - an excellent preparation of this classic Italian dish. Another trustworthy option is always the fresh fish of the day, usually cooked simply with olive oil and lemon.

So while Elio's does not fit into my new fiscal plan, it's not that far off from having your own personal, Italian chef. And in the world of personal chefs, this is more than a bargain. So, you see, it's all relative in the end. Without question, an occasional trip to Elio's will always have a place in my life. While I will never be able to claim being a regular, I will certainly never be a newcomer.



Elio's
1621 Second Avenue (@ 84th)
New York, NY 10028
(212) 772-2242
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

One Year Old

Well, it's hard to believe, but tomorrow marks the official one year anniversary of the Hungry Roach! It's been quite a year of eating. But, to be completely fair to myself and my habits, the only difference in this past year and previous years is that I finally kept track of it. And, unlike most years, I actually don't have to work hard to think back on the year. My 2008-2009 journey (through restaurants) is right here before my eyes. And, instead of making you go back through the entire year, I thought I'd hand it you on a silver platter with my very first Top Ten in NYC. As ratings are usually my least favorite part of every post, I am feeling a little more generous on the big birthday and offering this gift of the ultimate ratings to my readers. And, here they are...


TOP TEN in NYC:
1) 10 Downing
2) The John Dory
3) Txikito
4) Socarrat Paella Bar
5) DBGB
6) Convivio
7) Boqueria
8) The Smith
9) L'Artusi
10) The Redhead

Now, it's up to you to go back and remember just why they made the cut!

Taim

I've always thought of myself as an optimist. While this may be my attempt to balance out my father's notorious pessimism, I like to think that my views really just come down to a reaction to the great "glass is half full" expression. I never want my drink or food to disappear, so I may as well convince myself there is more from the start. Most recently, I have been constantly surrounded by frustrations with the economy, excessive spending on weddings, and the hard-to-resist "summer fun" outings. Well, Taim gives me every reason to see the silver lining of being on a budget. As spending should be tighter than usual, I take comfort in knowing that sticking to a budget does not necessarily mean I have to sacrifice eating well.


This Middle-Eastern west village take-out joint has been making misers happy since 2005. While this is definitely not a new find, this is a spot that continues to attract crowds. In fact, it is more crowded than ever - a sign of the times, but mainly its excellent, consistent cuisine. And, unlike most hot spots, the crowds should not send you running. You will never wait for more than 10 minutes for your order, but don't expect to secure one of the tiny counters inside or one of the few benches outside. I actually recommend embracing the true take-out feature of Taim and heading to a nearby park, your apartment, or even to the Hudson River piers (a quick stroll west).

This is an upscale, but still very affordable falafel joint. The menu is centered around three gourmet mini falafels - green (traditional with parsley, cilantro, and mint), red (roasted red pepper), or harissa (Tunisian spices) - to be ordered as a sandwich or a platter. For both dinner and lunch, I am more than satisfied with the sandwich which is served with your choice of falafel, hummus, Israeli salad, and tahini in a whole wheat pita. Every now and then, I mix it up by substituting the hummus for baba ganoush and adding hot sauce to it. All three flavors are delicious and should be tried at some point. While the platter does cost more, it allows you to sample several of their delicious side salads - my favorites being the green cabbage and tabouli. Another great option is the Sabich sandwich - slices of fried eggplant layered with an organic hard boiled egg served with hummus, Israeli salad, tahini, and amba (mango) sauce.

So I know the pessimist is sitting here, looking at the date and thinking that summer is quickly coming to an end. What will happen as the weather cools off and take-out from Taim and an evening picnic are no longer appealing options? First of all, there is always delivery. While this is not the speediest option, the food is the very same. And, second of all, this just means that we are one step closer to fall - my favorite season. And, when you start to get stressed out when the end of fall is near, I am sure I can help you find reasons to embrace winter - and then it will soon be spring again!


Taim
222 Waverly Place
New York, NY 10014
(212) 691-1287
menu
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):

Keste

New York Magazine is one of the highlights of my week. Whether it's the crossword, the culture pages, the cover story, or even the approval matrix, this rather basic little magazine often occupies my mind for a decent amount of time. After a long day of work, I so often turn to my trustworthy NYMag well before turning on the tv, playing online, or cracking open a book. And, one of the highlights of each year is their Cheap Eats edition - featuring various restaurants as well as types of cuisine that are both top-rated and affordable (basically made for the Hungry Roach).

Well, there is no question - 2009 has been the year of the pizza - and Cheap Eats 2009 ate that right up with an entire feature devoted to the signature New York cuisine. When I saw that Keste had been listed as the #1 pizza of the year, I was first excited since I quickly recognized the name as a spot not far from home that I have walked by several times in the past few months. But, I was just as quickly disappointed as I realized that in my passings I had barely blinked at this tiny new pizza joint on Bleecker. Something about the oddly, brightly-lit interior had kept me walking and now I knew that it's new found publicity would make any stopover far from easy. Before I had even closed up my Cheap Eats edition, the lines had already formed outside of Keste.


After weeks of strolling past a packed sidewalk, and one failed attempt (my growling stomach could not endure the wait one night), I actually made it inside for a meal. And, in all honesty, they told us the wait would be 20 minutes and we were seated within 5 - we were in luck. It was a great start to the evening followed by a delicious fresca salad consisting of baby arugula, grape tomatoes, fresh parmigiano reggiano, and balsamic dressing. I had even forgotten about the bright lights above. However, the pizza had definitely been built up in my mind - and that is where my experience veers from my trustworthy NYMag. Had I allowed my curiosity to lead me into Keste a few months earlier, I have no doubt that I would have been nicely surprised by the extremely authentic Neapolitan pizzas streaming out of the oven - both in smell and taste. But, by the time I made it there, these pizzas were already larger than life - rated #1 in New York Magazine and the lines outside had more than fed the hype. In the end, it was just too late for me - too late to be blown away, except by true perfection.


Once I realized that Keste would not be perfection, I decided it really wasn't too late to enjoy another new pizza joint that serves very good little pies. We had the mini pizza appetizer which consisted of a blend of Italian cheeses and truffle spread - this changes each night and is actually a very nice small size. It was a great option instead of ordering two full pizzas. To try out a traditional pie, we ordered the pizza regina margherita - grape tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella, basil, and extra virgin olive oil. Both pies were really very good and I will definitely head back either for take out or as crowds start to die down (although it doesn't appear that will be happening any time soon). I'm just not convinced that This Is It (the literal translation of Keste). But, go see for yourself - it is definitely worth the trip and the faux 20 minute wait. Now that I've taken Keste down more than a notch or two, you will probably love it - lucky you!



Keste
271 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 243-1500
website
FOOD RATING (Out of 5):